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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 21st January 2013, 06:45 PM   #61
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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I've been trying different xo's - there is one in the oak wood base - System 7 (Steve).

This is the best so far (pic) getting some rich base (that was the hope). The tweeter is a little hot, laid some felt pieces on them for now.

Is there a way to quiet them a db or two with resistors (L-pad maybe)?
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Old 21st January 2013, 07:06 PM   #62
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Changing the L-pad is troublesome. Simply insert a resistor before the 3.9uF capacitor. Try different values from 2.2 to 4.7 ohms. Doing it this way, the crossover is not affected.
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Old 21st January 2013, 08:53 PM   #63
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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That helped a lot! (used a 3ohm).
They are sounding nice, at the least in a "normal" range.

They don't have "bass that is not there", but if a song comes along with some bass - they take off.
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Old 26th January 2013, 09:38 AM   #64
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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The parts arrived, made up bread board xo's - mainly so there are no mistakes.
They do sound nice, all of a sudden they image!
I see what you are saying about the mid, that's a bit hot, I'll add more damping material.

Going to make 3 more I think, with a little twist - going to extend front baffle up and mount tweeter on top (outside).

Something like the pic.

And Thank you for your help

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Originally Posted by Michael Chua View Post
That's the same value I have at the front. I crossed the XT25 at 2,500kHz to the SF W17RC.

My network is just to have an idea of how the SF sounds like with this particular Vifa. If I decide to proceed further, I'll do FR measurements to determine the acoustic crossover and fine-tune from there.
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Old 26th January 2013, 12:46 PM   #65
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Great it's working out.

It's a good idea to have the tweeter as close to the woofer as possible. I usually keep the edge of my tweeter's flange 1/4" or less to the woofer.

You may want to consider mounting it onto the front panel instead of extending it. If there's not enough space, offset the tweeter slightly. Should you do this, then offset the tweeter in the opposite side for the other speaker.
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Old 26th January 2013, 01:20 PM   #66
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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My bad...I used 3 oz of low cost poly fill - switched to 6 1/2 oz of the good PE wool.

Huge improvement, about double the bass, mids and are much better.
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Old 26th January 2013, 05:48 PM   #67
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PolyFill didn't work for me too. I simply line the inside with R-11 Fiberglass Insulation.

Try not to block the slot inside. It'll affect the bass. Generally, it's recommended to have a minimum of 3" space for the slot/port to breathe.
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Old 26th January 2013, 10:18 PM   #68
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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3" ? well could be I guess; been wondering about that. Could use shield like back on post #13.

I may use some of the cheap poly in the bottom of box, since it doesn't do much - it could be used to "hold up" the better wool.

Btw, I think the 6-1/2oz of the PE wool, is just a bit much; going to pull some back out (and as mentioned, add some super fluff (poly) at bottom.
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Old 27th January 2013, 01:13 AM   #69
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Your Slot width is 6-9/16" in the middle of the cab. Maybe you can break up the wool to two and arranged them top and bottom and leave some space in between where the slots are.

The important point is not to completely block the 1/2" slot.
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Old 27th January 2013, 10:00 AM   #70
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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I was thinking the opposite - trying to get wool around the back of driver but not block air flow.
[btw - the gap is only 4-1/8"]

I've been collecting plastic screens, I think I can fold a piece in.

These are starting to sound better than the speakers in the other "main" room.
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Last edited by ODougbo; 27th January 2013 at 10:03 AM.
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