Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 23rd April 2011, 05:15 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Robert GS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Helsingor
Default Active high dynamics/SPL & high performance loudspeaker system for my living room…!

Why am I building such a big active loudspeaker system? - You might ask - because I have the opportunity, because I like real physical dynamics and yet I want the sublime sound quality at all levels. With these requirements I think the only way is going real active – no passive bi/tri/quad-amping, please! It also requires the use of high sensitive drivers with high power ratings and really optimized toward a specific frequency range.
My choice of drivers is from three manufactures, but I am not 100% certain of the midrange drivers and a fourth manufacture has been considered. Well – the drivers have already been purchased:

2 pcs Beyma TPL-150H
4 pcs Eighteensound 6NMB420
8 pcs Sica 10BS3PL – 4 ohms
4 pcs Eighteensound 18NLW9000

I aim for crossover points at 80Hz, 400Hz and 2kHz. I will make the system in 4 boxes – two front and two corner subs. The front will be closed enclosure and the subs will be vented – I will try a relative low tuning of the ports.

The project is well under way, but comments and suggestions are appreciated anyway.

EG should I reconsider my choice of Eighteensound 6NMB420? I started out with B&C 6MDN44 or PHL 6” drivers, but an offer for the 4 pcs 6NMB420 was a bit too tempting.
Or do you have any other driver suggestions for the 400Hz – 2 kHz range that will be able to keep up with the rest of the system?

Click the image to open in full size.

__________________
GroundSound.com Active Sound - Active Listening
Digital Crossovers, Power Amplifiers and DIY modules
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd April 2011, 10:17 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Brett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert GS View Post
Why am I building such a big active loudspeaker system?
Simple, because you should!

Have you seen 'our terry's' Franks?

Probably the best system I have ever heard, and many other' who've heard it would say the same. Go to the last few posts for the final 4 way incarnation.

I've tried to get him to consider the Beymas but he seems to like the Peerless and Morel fuses, sorry tweets he has. I would like some too, but don't have an application for them at this time.

Are you going to make the boxes WWMT?
What are you using for xovers?

I think the 18Sound will be fine for the mid and I certainly wouldn't worry until I'd done some testing. Xover points look OK for a first approximation, but active is easy to change, so don't sweat it.

I'd also suggest you consider 4 sub boxes and locate them how works best after reading the Welti, Geddes and Parnham.
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd April 2011, 11:16 PM   #3
_henry_ is online now _henry_  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Australia
hi

the beyma alone can handle until 800hz. u have many overlaps on freq point which is good i supposed. prob u can try to use 18" + 10" + tpl150h.

which active xo are u going to use?

cheers
henry
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th April 2011, 08:44 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Robert GS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Helsingor
@ Brett

Thanks for the link – I haven’t seen Terry’s loudspeaker project before – it seem to end up a little like my configuration. I fully understand that you recommend Terry the Beymas and he really should consider them seriously. Pk (diyaudio member) also ended up with these drivers in his active horn system after using compression drivers earlier. Some years ago I tested a set of Mundorf AMT just placed on top of an existing loudspeaker not really an ideal test condition but they performed way better than the ScanSpeak domes – much smoother and less distortion. I am not too worried about the 6” 18Sound, but I am still considering the B&C drivers – the initial test of the fronts will show what to do.
The front boxes will be WWMTMWW just like my current ScanSpeak towers.

Click the image to open in full size.

The ScanSpeak towers have a real forward and undistorded sound at all levels. They aren’t bad at all, but one wants more – I think it a human failure

I have considered my options for the subs, but there isn’t that much possibilities given that I want them to go real low with capability of high SPL – so I end up with a vented box volume of +500 litres per two drivers - although the ideal for me is reflex horns. I also considered the multiple subs, but again the placement of them would be none desirable and I have built a set of corner subs for a friend many years ago with a unparallel performance. At the time we used RCF L18P200, which have a Hi-Fi like sound that I prefer over maximum SPL. Later I tested quite a lot of drivers in my own constructed sub horns and found the 18Sound 18LW1400 to be just better in all aspects compared to the other contestants (JBL, EV, Precision Device, Beyma, Fane, DAS, Celestion, RCF). The test was performed “direct” AB where each driver had its own output channel on a LAB2000 PRO amp. The test was made outside on 8 identical subs…!
Therefore I was going to “upgrade” to the 18LW2400 for my new system, but I was persuaded to invest in the 18NLW9000, which he said was so much better when they made an AB test.
__________________
GroundSound.com Active Sound - Active Listening
Digital Crossovers, Power Amplifiers and DIY modules
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th April 2011, 08:47 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Robert GS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Helsingor
@ henry

I can see your point in “only” using 18” + 10” + TPL-150H, but I will try to make an ultimate system and the TPL-150H will actually set the limit in SPL even when I use the 6” drivers as I see it. There is a tendency of more distortion of a driver when you push it to its lower bandwidth limit and I don’t want this. I want headroom – more headroom, yet still very high quality sound.

I will be using my DCN28
__________________
GroundSound.com Active Sound - Active Listening
Digital Crossovers, Power Amplifiers and DIY modules
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th April 2011, 01:31 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Brett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert GS View Post
@ Brett

Thanks for the link – I haven’t seen Terry’s loudspeaker project before – it seem to end up a little like my configuration. I fully understand that you recommend Terry the Beymas and he really should consider them seriously. Pk (diyaudio member) also ended up with these drivers in his active horn system after using compression drivers earlier. Some years ago I tested a set of Mundorf AMT just placed on top of an existing loudspeaker not really an ideal test condition but they performed way better than the ScanSpeak domes – much smoother and less distortion.
TJ is content with them I think, so as long as he doesn't eat any more of them, he'll be fine. He's a very pragmatic technician (he'd be horrified if I called him an audiophile).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert GS View Post
I am not too worried about the 6” 18Sound, but I am still considering the B&C drivers – the initial test of the fronts will show what to do.
It will be interesting to see what you think of them, and especially any measurements you might take.

My (4) surrounds are 15 / 10 / CD+WG and whilst they are overkill for the current apartment, I also own a home in the country with a very large open plan room where I think they'll be perfect. I've also designed them so I can easily make them 4 way by adding a 6" later if I choose to. That was part of the original design before I moved where I am now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert GS View Post
The front boxes will be WWMTMWW just like my current ScanSpeak towers.

Click the image to open in full size.
Again, that is very similar to the original concept this project started out with but one of the 10's replaced by a 15, and some big meaty subs below for HT; it was designed for both. Original inspirations were Stig Erik's previous build (there's a thread here somewhere) and Jack Bouska's but morphed into Unitys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert GS View Post
The ScanSpeak towers have a real forward and undistorded sound at all levels. They aren’t bad at all, but one wants more – I think it a human failure
I'm trying to get to a point I was at 20 years ago, where I was happy enough with everything that I didn't touch it for a decade. It's nice to do stuff 'just so' and know you can crank it safely when needed and it will shrug off any dynamic demand you make of it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert GS View Post
I have considered my options for the subs, but there isn’t that much possibilities given that I want them to go real low with capability of high SPL – so I end up with a vented box volume of +500 litres per two drivers - although the ideal for me is reflex horns. I also considered the multiple subs, but again the placement of them would be none desirable and I have built a set of corner subs for a friend many years ago with a unparallel performance. At the time we used RCF L18P200, which have a Hi-Fi like sound that I prefer over maximum SPL. Later I tested quite a lot of drivers in my own constructed sub horns and found the 18Sound 18LW1400 to be just better in all aspects compared to the other contestants (JBL, EV, Precision Device, Beyma, Fane, DAS, Celestion, RCF). The test was performed “direct” AB where each driver had its own output channel on a LAB2000 PRO amp. The test was made outside on 8 identical subs…!
Therefore I was going to “upgrade” to the 18LW2400 for my new system, but I was persuaded to invest in the 18NLW9000, which he said was so much better when they made an AB test.
Define low; HT low or regular music low? For the latter, I'd them make them a PPSL.

I look forward to watching how your come out.

Last edited by Brett; 24th April 2011 at 01:33 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th April 2011, 10:39 AM   #7
Dr_EM is offline Dr_EM  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Dr_EM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Swindon
Going to be a project of epic proportions here . That should be a great tweeter driver, look forward to reading your impressions.
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th April 2011, 01:53 PM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Robert GS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Helsingor
I built one raw MDF sub box yesterday and at the moment I am break-in the drivers with a tone generator.
It seems as if the tuning is about right in the neighbourhood of 22Hz as calculated. Turning up the volume a little I have some concerns about my house – will it still stand at the levels that two of these corner placed sub are capable of at full throttle
At the break-in of the drivers I (of course) reverse the phase of one of the drivers

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
GroundSound.com Active Sound - Active Listening
Digital Crossovers, Power Amplifiers and DIY modules
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th April 2011, 07:17 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Robert GS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Helsingor
Default A little update - project build pictures…

This is how the front and sub was planned to look like

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

The last few days I have been building boxes, not quite finished though.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

I will test the raw boxes to see how they perform before I make the final finish
__________________
GroundSound.com Active Sound - Active Listening
Digital Crossovers, Power Amplifiers and DIY modules
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th April 2011, 06:31 AM   #10
pk is online now pk  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Aarhus, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert GS View Post
This is how the front and sub was planned to look like

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

The last few days I have been building boxes, not quite finished though.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

I will test the raw boxes to see how they perform before I make the final finish
Hi Robert,

Your cabinets look really great! I look forward to hear about your listening impressions from the whole system

Do you really need to tune the subs as low as 22 Hz? (I assume that the setup is for music and not for HT)

Good luck and happy listening!

Best regards
Peter
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FR8C 25lt sealed mid-high in active bi-amp system col Multi-Way 0 17th June 2009 12:15 PM
high gain 2nd order high pass active filter topology sreten Solid State 21 23rd March 2006 01:26 AM
high performance but cheap amp rulezzz Solid State 7 15th May 2004 03:30 PM
Building a reference active 3-way speaker for high SPL Ricren Multi-Way 45 13th March 2004 11:10 PM
Suggestions for high efficiency high SPL kit/design Kanga Multi-Way 50 23rd May 2003 12:52 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:45 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2