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Old 13th December 2012, 09:15 PM   #241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzforb View Post
backefel,
Here is a pic of my current V2. It is on side by side Heastink USA 10.08 profile that is 6" tall and 16" deep. The fins are longer, but not anodized black. I would have no problem putting the V3 on this setup, but it would be pushing it a bit, especially considering it is not enclosed. With a well vented bottom and top, i think it would be ok. Put it all on a granite shelf with a 120mm fan mounted in the center and you are set. Truthfully, mounting fets directly to sinks would help somewhat, as the spreader causes efficiency loss. Just a bit of reference.

Wow, that was quicker than I expected.
I'll stick with the second version though even if it's really tempting with the extra power. It's my first power amplifier so it might be good to have some spare cash for replacement parts if I manage to do something stupid.

Btw your build is starting to look really good!

Btw it's really looking good, the build I mean.
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Old 13th December 2012, 09:21 PM   #242
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It has been finished for a ouple of months. It will be stripped out and put in bigger case for final version.
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Old 13th December 2012, 10:08 PM   #243
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Want to sell that case?
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Old 13th December 2012, 10:14 PM   #244
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Ill sell anything Got a 3/4" face plate and top for it as well. I can build one for about $200, so that's the way I usually go, although I have been tempted by the Store cases. Here is my last finished case.

Pictures of your diy Pass amplifier

Post 1194
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Old 13th December 2012, 10:20 PM   #245
bkdog is offline bkdog  Australia
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Buzz - that is VERY sweet!
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Old 13th December 2012, 11:30 PM   #246
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Would it make any sense to use the 63v caps for the V3's and the 50v caps for the V2's? Would that even make a difference in there availability?
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Old 14th December 2012, 12:06 AM   #247
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It does not help any., unfortunately.

How about everyone add which caps they want to the list.
T-UP vs T-HA.

Ill post the datasheets.
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Old 14th December 2012, 01:31 AM   #248
Lo_Tse is offline Lo_Tse  Canada
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzforb View Post
backefel,
Here is a pic of my current V2. It is on side by side Heastink USA 10.08 profile that is 6" tall and 16" deep. The fins are longer, but not anodized black. I would have no problem putting the V3 on this setup, but it would be pushing it a bit, especially considering it is not enclosed. With a well vented bottom and top, i think it would be ok. Put it all on a granite shelf with a 120mm fan mounted in the center and you are set. Truthfully, mounting fets directly to sinks would help somewhat, as the spreader causes efficiency loss. Just a bit of reference.

Buzzforb,

Very nice build. I wish I have your skill on metal work! I am with you that it is better to build the V3 is better as mono blocks. If I am going to use a chasis like yours, how should one hook up the 4 MOSFETs from each heatsink to the PCB (8 MOSFETs per block). The board will have to be hanging in the middle of the case with wires running to the heatsink on both side?

By the way, please let me know when should I sign up for the GB on the matched MOSFETs and diodes. Thanks!

Regards,

Lo_Tse
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Old 14th December 2012, 01:34 AM   #249
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Are you using TeaBags boards? Ill finish my monoblock using his boards this weekend. It should give you an idea of how to do it.ideal sinks would be flanged Conrad sinks. Would make it very easy.
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Old 14th December 2012, 02:29 AM   #250
Lo_Tse is offline Lo_Tse  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzforb View Post
Are you using TeaBags boards? Ill finish my monoblock using his boards this weekend. It should give you an idea of how to do it.ideal sinks would be flanged Conrad sinks. Would make it very easy.
Have not decided yet. I am leaning towards the board from the DIY store. Unfortunately, it is not ready yet. You are right, the Conrad sinks with a 90 degree flange would be perfect for the job. One doesn't have to bend the legs of the MOSFET to fit. Looking forward to see your monoblock.

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