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DX Blame Group Buy

Status
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This is the current status of your orders:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I have just started a quote for 30 PCBs, single-sided, the thickness of the PCBs being 2mm, copper weight being 70µm, the surface having
a tin immersion finish (I will do another quote for golden finish) with this layout (the transistors will be mounted vertically, without ALU-L- bracket):

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I will be able to offer you this PCB for 10€ per piece.

I will set the deadline of the 3rd round to Saturday, 26th of March.
Then I will order.

In the meantime I will do some research on what I can offer you as a "Small Kit" and will tell you.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos

How come I can't see or open this
 
Dear DX Blame friends,

MeTal just sent me his revision of my layout of the DX Blame MKII, so I can start with the silkscreen and the final check
of the schematics, components and values tomorrow.

It is of course up to you to decide, whether you want the power transistors and VAS drivers being mounted horizontally
(by means of an ALU - L-bracket) or vertically.

Have a look and compare these 2 pictures please.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


This is the way, how 2 amateurs (my friend Volker and I) have done it.

My way to do it, the way I recommend you, on the 1st picture, uses an ALU - L-profile.
It is absolutely robust.
Please apply a very thin layer of thermal paste to the ALU profile to compensate for unevenesses of the ALU surface.

My friend's result, mounting the transistors directly to the heatsink, looks a little bit "instable".
His way to do it may be superior from a thermal point of view, especially (and only) when you are going
to build the SuperCharged version of the DX Blame.

It is up to you to decide which way you want.
Please tell me, via PM or in this thread, how you want it.
I need your information to order the PCBs with the correct size.

I am sure, that Carlos will respect your decision.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
 
To "L" or not to "L"

I can go either way but... If you go with the "No L" version, than I would prefer that the board have two additional mounting holes, one in each corner on the output device end of the board, symmetrical with those on the input side of the board.

It is very sturdy with the L bracket on the existing design. Has anyone verified that the "L" version (for MK II) offers enough heat transfer path (low-enough heat resistance) to the main heatsink?

Thanks,
Ryan
 
Dear DX Blame friends,

from the answers, I received from you, I know, that most of you will either build the DX BlameES or the DX BlameST.

Very few of you plan to build the MKII or the SuperCharged Version of the DX Blame.

Therefore I decided to offer you the PCB version, that will accept ALU L-brackets.
MeTal and I are just finishing the silkscreen of this PCB.

I think (bet), Ryan, that an ALU L-profile (depending on the pureness of the aluminium being used, if you have the chance, take a copper profile)
will dissipate the heat sufficiently, even for the DX Blame MKII version.

In case of the SuperCharged version of the DX Blame I agree with Carlos, that it would be better to directly mount the power transistors to your heatsink.

For those of you, who plan to build the SuperCharged version of the DX Blame, I have included the needed Gerber files in this post.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


As I told you, I will order the ALU - L profile PCBs on weekend, March 26th.
Be sure, that you will get best quality, red-and gold (sorry, CafeChaud) PCBs, that you have ever held in your hands.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos

P.S. @Goldkenn: You do not need to order PSU PCBs; the PSU is part of the PCB.
 

Attachments

  • DXBlame_SC.zip
    119.9 KB · Views: 88
Was not a good idea to publish gerbers opened this way

Forum folks can enjoy that...but pirates will copy and you will have your lovely board design, very soon, beeing sold in Ebay, and half your price and having parts included...they can do that.... in special in China as labout costs are low, and production is high..so..part's cost is low too.

I have asked you not to do, but i do thing you was faster publishing and have not readed my appeal.

Well.....to me what matter is to have my circuit world wide...this will help, as some pirates (mainly from China but not always from there) may copy and will spread it wide world the way i want..so... at the end will make what i want.

There's a lot of offers of Jan Dupont and Dx Amplifier boards in E bay...very cheap...sometimes 50 dollares with all parts included in the package..i could see a stereo board, with parts included by 50 USD....and they can do that even cheaper.

I will not provide blue board gerbers opened to the forum to avoid this...only forum management will have them..so.... at Ebay, in the future, only yours.

regards,

Carlos
 
board comments

Hi Rudi,
I am likely to go for the Supercharged Mk II with this board. I will find a way to get the heat out of the devices ;).

One thing to check if possible please. I have some On-Semi MJL output devices. When building the ST ('stock version'), I tried to use these devices but unfortunately, the leg diameter of the On-Semi devices did not fit through the red-board holes. So I reverted to the toshiba output devices. Is it possible to make the holes for the output devices just a bit bigger?

Cheers,
Ryan
 
Thank you for your comment, Ryan.

I took a look at the datasheet of the MJL transistors.
The diameter of the transistor's legs varies from 0.93mm to 1.48mm.

The drill diameter of the TO-264 package in the corresponding EAGLE package is 55mil (corresponding to 1.43mm).
I will change the drill size to 59mil in my current layout.

Ryan: it does no harm at all to the PCB, if you enlarge the holes for the power transistors with a 1.5mm drill manually.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
 
Status
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