Yes Ed, it does.
Some notes;
I supplied both 0r22 and 18R for the output, if your crossover is not too complicated, first try just the 0r22 on the output. If it sounds dull like someone keeping a cushion over the speaker, do the following, bridge the position of this resistor onboard, then used the 18R in parralel with a large inductor in series with the speaker out. The binding post would be a solid connection point....
Also, I pre-adjusted the trimpots, so they are tested and ready for installation, following the silkscreen screw position. They are in plastic antistatic cases to protect them.
They should require no/little adjustment, but instructions will be available as soon as I had a day to breathe after this.
If you ordered the resistor kits and allready have the caps on hand, assembly should take 30 minutes to an hour, as you won't have to sort through strings and bags, they come in a booklet form.
If I knew a groupbuy would involve so much work, I would have worked a profit margin in.
After the groupbuy I will have to adjust the prices, it was an honour to be able to share this amp with you guys, but at some point it will have to become profitable so I can pay my fair share of advertising dues here on DIY audio. The moderators have been most generous thus far.
Some notes;
I supplied both 0r22 and 18R for the output, if your crossover is not too complicated, first try just the 0r22 on the output. If it sounds dull like someone keeping a cushion over the speaker, do the following, bridge the position of this resistor onboard, then used the 18R in parralel with a large inductor in series with the speaker out. The binding post would be a solid connection point....
Also, I pre-adjusted the trimpots, so they are tested and ready for installation, following the silkscreen screw position. They are in plastic antistatic cases to protect them.
They should require no/little adjustment, but instructions will be available as soon as I had a day to breathe after this.
If you ordered the resistor kits and allready have the caps on hand, assembly should take 30 minutes to an hour, as you won't have to sort through strings and bags, they come in a booklet form.
If I knew a groupbuy would involve so much work, I would have worked a profit margin in.
After the groupbuy I will have to adjust the prices, it was an honour to be able to share this amp with you guys, but at some point it will have to become profitable so I can pay my fair share of advertising dues here on DIY audio. The moderators have been most generous thus far.
PSU PSU PSU
I will add the PSU PCB's to the online catalog just now after eating.
If you want it to ship seperately, select the PSU from the catalog,
then the price will be $9.99 per PSU pcb + $7.5 shipping
if you want it to ship with your current order choose Misc. on the catalog, I have only figured out how to do flatrate mail charges on the catalog so far, it will show as $2.49, but the checkout will add $7.50 "shipping", which will make up the $9.99 price.
To order two PSU pcbs select Misc. x 2, this will be $11.48 before the $7.50 is added.
The PSU is pretty universal, and can also be used with gainclones etc.
I will add the PSU PCB's to the online catalog just now after eating.
If you want it to ship seperately, select the PSU from the catalog,
then the price will be $9.99 per PSU pcb + $7.5 shipping
if you want it to ship with your current order choose Misc. on the catalog, I have only figured out how to do flatrate mail charges on the catalog so far, it will show as $2.49, but the checkout will add $7.50 "shipping", which will make up the $9.99 price.
To order two PSU pcbs select Misc. x 2, this will be $11.48 before the $7.50 is added.
The PSU is pretty universal, and can also be used with gainclones etc.
Nordic said:
Ok, so I am going to use one PSU PCB per stereo set. The power supply will be outside of both the amplifier boards, to keep out any possible noise. Since both amplifiers will be drawing off a PSU made for only one amplifier (I believe), won't I have to increase the wattage rating of the resistors and also increase the capacitance of the PSU caps? Or was the PSU overdesigned to take this into account? Sorry if this is a novice question, just want to make sure I do this right.
Chris
Hi,
I recommend the PSU RC time constant be at least double the input filter RC created by the DC blocking capacitor.
If you run two amplifiers each driving an 8ohm speaker, then the PSU sees an effective 4ohm load.
Using 4*4.7mF (with 0r0 between them), the RC= 4 * 0.0094 = 0.038 = 38mS.
The input filter should be set to <=19mS.
This will attenuate the low bass significantly.
I suggest at least doubling the PSU capacitance and you may hear improvements in low bass if you fit five times as much smoothing. I cannot say if this will degrade the amps ability to play mids or treble well/very well.
I recommend the PSU RC time constant be at least double the input filter RC created by the DC blocking capacitor.
If you run two amplifiers each driving an 8ohm speaker, then the PSU sees an effective 4ohm load.
Using 4*4.7mF (with 0r0 between them), the RC= 4 * 0.0094 = 0.038 = 38mS.
The input filter should be set to <=19mS.
This will attenuate the low bass significantly.
I suggest at least doubling the PSU capacitance and you may hear improvements in low bass if you fit five times as much smoothing. I cannot say if this will degrade the amps ability to play mids or treble well/very well.
Yes the PSU is oversized and the resistors etc in use are roughly double the power rateing of the original design...for in my view thermal stability... you can swap to higher capacitance without a problem, as the diameter provided is 35mm, and there is enough copper to allow you to drill holes and stall stud mound caps too.
even if I used 1 transformer I would use 2 PSU boards to "isolate" the channels from each other's power demands...
If you have a strong bass passage in the left channel, it would also affect the right the right channel connected to the same PSU.
I have to go pick up a few things quickly from the shops then I will post the schematic, as Andrew is handy to have around.
The PSU as is, is good too, I am useing one right now, with rather cheap caps, (-+$2).
Andrew, remember that each channel also has up to half a farad of capacitance on the amp PCB itself, depending on capacitor selection, and if you choose to use the regulated version or the slightly more powerfull non-reged version.
I left the PCB layouts for the smaller original version on the construction pages...
I do a small change on the site every day or two, adding missed spots, and expanding info, correcting mistakes etc...
The Liquid silk guy just dropped off a bunch of nice images of the cables etc. I will upload some and add the digital interconnect cables later today... they are quite a bit cheaper than their analog friends... don't ask, I'm just the distributor.
even if I used 1 transformer I would use 2 PSU boards to "isolate" the channels from each other's power demands...
If you have a strong bass passage in the left channel, it would also affect the right the right channel connected to the same PSU.
I have to go pick up a few things quickly from the shops then I will post the schematic, as Andrew is handy to have around.
The PSU as is, is good too, I am useing one right now, with rather cheap caps, (-+$2).
Andrew, remember that each channel also has up to half a farad of capacitance on the amp PCB itself, depending on capacitor selection, and if you choose to use the regulated version or the slightly more powerfull non-reged version.
I left the PCB layouts for the smaller original version on the construction pages...
I do a small change on the site every day or two, adding missed spots, and expanding info, correcting mistakes etc...
The Liquid silk guy just dropped off a bunch of nice images of the cables etc. I will upload some and add the digital interconnect cables later today... they are quite a bit cheaper than their analog friends... don't ask, I'm just the distributor.
Dear friends, there are a lot of informations into the thread
The Dx amplifier thread.
And those last ones are about the High Resolution II
Precision is dead....High Resolution II is sounding better.
Please, read the informs and be confortable to ask things if you
have doubts,
also my E-mail adress is for your use if needed:
panzertoo@yahoo.com
regards,
Carlos
The Dx amplifier thread.
And those last ones are about the High Resolution II
Precision is dead....High Resolution II is sounding better.
Please, read the informs and be confortable to ask things if you
have doubts,
also my E-mail adress is for your use if needed:
panzertoo@yahoo.com
regards,
Carlos
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.