Hi Pepe
You can change the width and depth of the cabinet as long as it is still 128 cm2.
7 cm depth is then 18,3 cm wide (internal).
The length of the pipe shall not be changed.
If you want you can make the port as an external port attached to the end of the line. The port is 16 cm2 and 9.7 cm long.
Stuffing of the back wall - behind the speaker - is the most important area to dampen.
The stuffing in general is to dampen the unwanted harmonics out of phase with the driver. If you listen to the opening in a quarter wave that is not stuffed, you will hear that the sound is not only the bass.
Damping will also control the movement of the cone, which can be seen on the impedance curve.
The goal of a quarter wave is to have a clean, deep and controlled bass - the opposite of a one-tone-bass.
Hi from
Bjørn
You can change the width and depth of the cabinet as long as it is still 128 cm2.
7 cm depth is then 18,3 cm wide (internal).
The length of the pipe shall not be changed.
If you want you can make the port as an external port attached to the end of the line. The port is 16 cm2 and 9.7 cm long.
Stuffing of the back wall - behind the speaker - is the most important area to dampen.
The stuffing in general is to dampen the unwanted harmonics out of phase with the driver. If you listen to the opening in a quarter wave that is not stuffed, you will hear that the sound is not only the bass.
Damping will also control the movement of the cone, which can be seen on the impedance curve.
The goal of a quarter wave is to have a clean, deep and controlled bass - the opposite of a one-tone-bass.
Hi from
Bjørn
Hey Pepe.
Relax, in a tml the cross section has to remain the same, so if you make it flatter you have to make it wider to compensate. Regarding the reflecting sound waves off of the back board, no worries in my opinion!!! NOT a big concern.
Of course it is a little different if the back board is closer to the driver but that dosen't matter that much, especially with the stuffing surrounding the back of the driver (basket + magnet). Remember we are talking about an inexpensive full range driver here, no high end expectations
Just make sure there is some space left behind the magnet for some stuffing.
In my experience it is more important to leave some space at the sides of the basket (driver) then behind the magnet. So your flatter + wider cabinet is going to be fine.
Cheers
ops, Björn was faster
Relax, in a tml the cross section has to remain the same, so if you make it flatter you have to make it wider to compensate. Regarding the reflecting sound waves off of the back board, no worries in my opinion!!! NOT a big concern.
Of course it is a little different if the back board is closer to the driver but that dosen't matter that much, especially with the stuffing surrounding the back of the driver (basket + magnet). Remember we are talking about an inexpensive full range driver here, no high end expectations
Just make sure there is some space left behind the magnet for some stuffing.
In my experience it is more important to leave some space at the sides of the basket (driver) then behind the magnet. So your flatter + wider cabinet is going to be fine.
Cheers
ops, Björn was faster
As with the cab, just keep the cross sectional area of the port and the length the same and you'll be good. A very narrow port will run into frictional problems though, but I think you are good any way you do it with this cab, so long as you only use one of the end sides for port.
A very shallow cab will run into similar problems among other things but again, 7 cm internal should be good.
Just remember to put the port as near to the boundary as possible for at better loading. It is easier to remove bass electronically than it is to add it.
So long as it is good bass, you can never have enough.
You are correct, the side reflections are the worst but the whole part of the cab where the driver is should be padded.
If your driver comes close to the backboard, you can further enhance your speaker by gently nudging a wedge in-between the board and the magnet. That will create bracing for the back and front and also make the driver frame more acoustically dull (a good thing! ;-).
A very shallow cab will run into similar problems among other things but again, 7 cm internal should be good.
Just remember to put the port as near to the boundary as possible for at better loading. It is easier to remove bass electronically than it is to add it.
So long as it is good bass, you can never have enough.
You are correct, the side reflections are the worst but the whole part of the cab where the driver is should be padded.
If your driver comes close to the backboard, you can further enhance your speaker by gently nudging a wedge in-between the board and the magnet. That will create bracing for the back and front and also make the driver frame more acoustically dull (a good thing! ;-).
Hello,
I am considering building a pair of Tabaq's to try. Well, Bjørn doesn't live far from here (jeg bor også på Frederiksberg, Squeak) ,so that's always a plus. I've got two pairs of drivers lying around here form another project, a pair of Fostex Fe 83 En and some Aura 3" drivers
AURA fuldtone enheder. | Alto-Højtaler
Worth trying or way too far out?
Regards,
Vincula
I am considering building a pair of Tabaq's to try. Well, Bjørn doesn't live far from here (jeg bor også på Frederiksberg, Squeak
) ,so that's always a plus. I've got two pairs of drivers lying around here form another project, a pair of Fostex Fe 83 En and some Aura 3" driversAURA fuldtone enheder. | Alto-Højtaler
Worth trying or way too far out?
Regards,
Vincula
Thanks a lot, Scott. I am considering employing 12mm birch ply instead of MDF, finished with wax or linseed oil. Should I try the proposed crossover or without any crossover first? Any other recommendations before I "go shopping"
?Regards,
Vincula
TABAQ Center
Hi everyone, thought I'd post a couple of pictures of my TABAQ that I'm gonna use as center channel in my living room. The driver is the TB W4-1320SIF. I have a couple of normal TABAQs with TB W3-881SI, which sound good for its price, but the W4 makes it a much more capable speaker. Louder, cleaner, and with more bass. No filter yet, will play it for a while and see how it works out.
Cheers,
Oyvind
Hi everyone, thought I'd post a couple of pictures of my TABAQ that I'm gonna use as center channel in my living room. The driver is the TB W4-1320SIF. I have a couple of normal TABAQs with TB W3-881SI, which sound good for its price, but the W4 makes it a much more capable speaker. Louder, cleaner, and with more bass. No filter yet, will play it for a while and see how it works out.
Cheers,
Oyvind
Thanks a lot, Scott. I am considering employing 12mm birch ply instead of MDF, finished with wax or linseed oil. Should I try the proposed crossover or without any crossover first? Any other recommendations before I "go shopping"
It's a 1-way (single driver) speaker so there is no crossover. Do you mean a shelving filter? The values should be adapted to the driver impedance.
http://www.quarter-wave.com/General/BSC_Calculator.xls
Loudspeaker Diffraction Loss and Baffle Step Compensation Circuits
Sorry, mate. That's what I meant. Spaniard living in DK and writing in English. Can be pretty challenging sometimes
Thanks for the links!
Regards,
Vincula
Trust me, you do a heck of a lot better than me. I only know enough English to scrape by on, let alone any other languages. Which, humour aside, I'm deeply ashamed about TBH. I really should make a proper attempt to learn one of my ancestral Norse languages (in my case Norwegian & Swedish).
Which, humour aside, I'm deeply ashamed about TBH. I really should make a proper attempt to learn one of my ancestral Norse languages (in my case Norwegian & Swedish).
Maybe we should do a makerlab for speaker builders? ;-) I met a surprising lot of people doing FR speakers just in Frederiksberg (well perhaps not that surprising it is one of the most densely populated spots in Northern Europe). I don't think Labitat around the corner is crazy about sawdust and routers near surfacemount electronics and 3d printers.Hello,
I am considering building a pair of Tabaq's to try. Well, Bjørn doesn't live far from here (jeg bor også på Frederiksberg, Squeak
That said, I'm grateful for my small warm workshop.
Hi everyone, thought I'd post a couple of pictures of my TABAQ that I'm gonna use as center channel in my living room. The driver is the TB W4-1320SIF. I have a couple of normal TABAQs with TB W3-881SI, which sound good for its price, but the W4 makes it a much more capable speaker. Louder, cleaner, and with more bass. No filter yet, will play it for a while and see how it works out.
Very nice work, but why not put the port on the back and get more loading from the wall? It's obviously meant to be placed on a bench or under a tv close to the wall, but not on the floor as with the TABAQ.
Also you could put the driver on the side, hang it on the wall and get free bafflestep. In fact, put everything on the wall, who needs a tv stand anyway? ;-)
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Thanks
It is to be placed on a shelf under the TV where there is no space to the sides or behind, so only option was on the front.
Hidden behind the TV is no bad idea though. Right now the shelf it sits on is a bit lower than I ideally would have liked, but its a visual compromise. Tempting to give it a try....
Funny that. It goes contrary to the conventional wisdom about placement of ports and mouths. You'd think rippling would be an issue, as well as not using the shape of the room to it's fullest. Any thoughts?
Sorry, mate. That's what I meant. Spaniard living in DK and writing in English. Can be pretty challenging sometimes
Thanks for the links!
Regards,
Vincula
Que confusión!!!! Know how you feel...
Hi, i'm halfway through making my folded tabaq. I'm ordering my Mark audio CHR70's tomorrow to try. Shall I stick with the BSC quoted in the plans? Also are there any good tips to fixing the front on without the use of screws? I've only made PA speakers in the past so aesthetics weren't important.
The MA drivers have build in baffle compensation, so if you push the cab into a corner or against a wall you should be good.
Mark recommends not using filters between the amp and the driver.
But joints, wood glue and clamps works fine if you are using 12 mm and above material.
It is important that the cab is airtight apart from the port for good bass. So don't skimp on the glue.
A 3 cm paper thin gap or a number of smaller gaps, is enough to make a difference.
If you don't have enough clamps or they are not the correct length, conic head screws combined with glue can be a good alternative.
You just need to make sure to have enough material for the screws to bite safely into. So 16 mm is minimum. Also be sure to pre-drill and make the small "funnel" concavity where the screw head will sink in, to avoid splitting.
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