Breitbandlautsprecher und mehr - SpectrumAudio
The site is in German but is simple to navigate & Wolfgang who runs Spectrum speaks better English than quite a few people born in England I could mention. Nigel Farage for example, whose brain is so minute that the new challenge for the LHC is finding it. Don't hold your breath though. I have little doubt that the discovery of the Higgs boson will prove a doddle compared to that mighty task.
As for the Tang Band 315 series units, I think the only easily available one at present is the E model. Off the top of my head, one of the others was a shielded version, which seems to have gone the way of 90% of shielded drivers now that CRT screens are a dying breed, & another was likely using a fancy magnet material like neodymium -many of those have also bitten the dust over the past couple of years due to prices going through the roof.
The site is in German but is simple to navigate & Wolfgang who runs Spectrum speaks better English than quite a few people born in England I could mention. Nigel Farage for example, whose brain is so minute that the new challenge for the LHC is finding it. Don't hold your breath though. I have little doubt that the discovery of the Higgs boson will prove a doddle compared to that mighty task.
As for the Tang Band 315 series units, I think the only easily available one at present is the E model. Off the top of my head, one of the others was a shielded version, which seems to have gone the way of 90% of shielded drivers now that CRT screens are a dying breed, & another was likely using a fancy magnet material like neodymium -many of those have also bitten the dust over the past couple of years due to prices going through the roof.
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Look at the dealers page on markaudios page: Strassacker: Speaker Building, Components
You'll also find Tang Band on that site. The difference is something like €10. Overall I'd say you'd be getting a much better driver in all respects for that small difference.
I even think Bjørn did a assessment of it at some point in this thread...
You'll also find Tang Band on that site. The difference is something like €10. Overall I'd say you'd be getting a much better driver in all respects for that small difference.
I even think Bjørn did a assessment of it at some point in this thread...
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Ah thanks, I looked at the price of the Marks audio on Strassacker: Lautsprecher - Boxen - Selbstbau and thought 70euro was for one not a pair. I'll probably give them a go. Sorry for all the basic questions but is the BSC likely to be the same (1,5 mH and 6,7 ohm) for the Marks in a folded.
I have been tempting to try Mark Audio drivers more than once
Please find enclosed a sim.
Hi
Bjørn
Have you drawn a design based on the Markaudio driver?
Ok, might try that. Just brainstorming different ways to use the tabaq design in my new appartment.
First I thought about to make them kind of omni/up firing by bulding the side ported version and mount the driver on the opposit side of the vented side. Maybe a little bit up tilted at the far end of the speaker, this would tilt the drivers slightly towords the lisstener and give to port some room to breed (but not to much, so that port couples nicely to the floor. What do you think about this approuch? I will use faital pro 3fe22 and I think they sounds better slightly off axis. Hope you get what I trying to do here, if not I'll make a drawing (probably uggly drawing) of what I mean.
First I thought about to make them kind of omni/up firing by bulding the side ported version and mount the driver on the opposit side of the vented side. Maybe a little bit up tilted at the far end of the speaker, this would tilt the drivers slightly towords the lisstener and give to port some room to breed (but not to much, so that port couples nicely to the floor. What do you think about this approuch? I will use faital pro 3fe22 and I think they sounds better slightly off axis. Hope you get what I trying to do here, if not I'll make a drawing (probably uggly drawing) of what I mean.
Unless you plan on using a reflector, I can not personally recommend firing the driver up. Maybe turning it towards a hard wall, Deccahorn style would work?
Interesting looking driver the Faital pro 3fe22If but if you choose the CHR-70 I'd not worry too much about beaming. That driver is damn near a miracle breakthrough in that regard (same with the much more expensive A7). There is still more beaming than with a tweeter, but much less than with other similar sized FR drivers. And the lift above 10Khz also helps a lot.
Interesting looking driver the Faital pro 3fe22If but if you choose the CHR-70 I'd not worry too much about beaming. That driver is damn near a miracle breakthrough in that regard (same with the much more expensive A7). There is still more beaming than with a tweeter, but much less than with other similar sized FR drivers. And the lift above 10Khz also helps a lot.
Looks like a waste of space to be frank. Just slant the top instead. The port should be at the end and always very near (ca. 2 - 3 cm) a boundary.
I don't think it would make a big difference. For 10 cm the new cross section would be 10 x 18,85 cm. If you go too shallow though (I think 10 cm is about the limit if you are using reasonably thick material) it will introduce artifacts.
I don't know about the carpenter, but almost any lumberyard will have a laser guided saw to make precise 90 degree cuts for a very reasonable price. I recently had the pleasure of visiting this place near Stockholm: Byggvaruhus i Danderyd - Bygma - Byggvaror, byggrådgivning, byggservice
Skivkapning - Bygma
The only thing missing would be the hole, but since you'll be using a surface mount driver, it doesn't have to be extremely precise. So careful use of hand tools should suffice.
I don't know about the carpenter, but almost any lumberyard will have a laser guided saw to make precise 90 degree cuts for a very reasonable price. I recently had the pleasure of visiting this place near Stockholm: Byggvaruhus i Danderyd - Bygma - Byggvaror, byggrådgivning, byggservice
Skivkapning - Bygma
The only thing missing would be the hole, but since you'll be using a surface mount driver, it doesn't have to be extremely precise. So careful use of hand tools should suffice.
Not in Stockholm anymore, just recently moved to Buenos Aires. I have a small lumberyard nearby where I live, I'll ask them to help me cutting the pieces.
If I use plywood for the front and back maybe I could use thinner boards like 9mm insted of the 12mm that the plans suggest or would that resonate to much?
If I use plywood for the front and back maybe I could use thinner boards like 9mm insted of the 12mm that the plans suggest or would that resonate to much?
Will the internal wall have to be shorter if I make the tabaq box flatter (7 cm internal vs the original 12cm)?
http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ BOX Cabinet build.pdf
Whent to a furnituremaker this morning for other purposes, but asked them at the same time about cutting me pieces for the tabaq. As soon as I have the boxplan finnished I'll ask them to do the job for me.
If not to much trouble could I get help with making plans for a flatter tabaq box, was thinking 7cm internal depth? Sorry for asking this but I have zero knowledge when it comes to tl designs and I don't want to screw it up.
http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ BOX Cabinet build.pdf
Whent to a furnituremaker this morning for other purposes, but asked them at the same time about cutting me pieces for the tabaq. As soon as I have the boxplan finnished I'll ask them to do the job for me.
If not to much trouble could I get help with making plans for a flatter tabaq box, was thinking 7cm internal depth? Sorry for asking this but I have zero knowledge when it comes to tl designs and I don't want to screw it up.
Still stuck there, Pepe ?
The more you near the back panel to the speaker, the more
the rear wave will have more energy in bouncing back to the cone, therefore
modulating its movement. 10 cm is the minimum allowable I think. You could use stiffer panels from some other materials such aluminum or carbon fiber 0,5 cm thick to be able to have the necessary space behind the speaker, though expensive...maybe only in the desired area- where the driver is mounted and behind it
The more you near the back panel to the speaker, the more
the rear wave will have more energy in bouncing back to the cone, therefore
modulating its movement. 10 cm is the minimum allowable I think. You could use stiffer panels from some other materials such aluminum or carbon fiber 0,5 cm thick to be able to have the necessary space behind the speaker, though expensive...maybe only in the desired area- where the driver is mounted and behind it
That supriceses me that the reflections from the backwall is such a big concern, I would think the side walls would pose a bigger impact on reflections bouncing back to the cone. But that is just my non scientifical assumption just by looking at the driver with big magnets or drivers with a closed basket behind the spider, would'nt basket and magnet allready produse those reflections back to the cone that you say the rearwall will? I always thought sidewalls close to the driver would have bigger impact on reflactions bouncing back to the cone and therefor being a bigger problem.
I am not saying you are wrong, not at all but is it really thet big of an issue with reflections bouncing back if I make a shallow speaker? Trying to learn and understand how things work, not saying that you are wrong?
I am not saying you are wrong, not at all but is it really thet big of an issue with reflections bouncing back if I make a shallow speaker? Trying to learn and understand how things work, not saying that you are wrong?