planet10 said:
post # 734
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1008421&stamp=1158605101
is the one whose measures I can't locate.
But these other designs are pretty spanky as well.
Those are Scott Dunn's (scd) variation on the Bi-Fonken. His latest comment "I got my Bifonkens hooked and playing. They are really nice. The treated drivers make a huge difference."
I've started to call them flat-face Fonkens & will probably draw the variation as they remove the step where you have to run the box thru the table-saw to get the 45 on the front.
In theory, there will be a negative affect on the edge diffraction, but if it is the difference between buidling or not building a Fonken i can live with it.
The only change is to ensure that the ports are adjusted to maintain the same length
dave
I've started to call them flat-face Fonkens & will probably draw the variation as they remove the step where you have to run the box thru the table-saw to get the 45 on the front.
In theory, there will be a negative affect on the edge diffraction, but if it is the difference between buidling or not building a Fonken i can live with it.
The only change is to ensure that the ports are adjusted to maintain the same length
dave
Hey those look familiar
Did someone ask about my bi-fonkens. I did some modification to Daves drawings to come up with a presentation style I liked more than the sliced edge style.
I kept the critical stuff the same as Davids design but I used a 1 inch round over and adjusted the internal port length to compensate. I essentially doubled the single fonken design. Mine are made from solid fine grained Douglas-fir.
I am not sure if there is a problem with defraction due to the round over edge vs the cut off edge as these are bi-poles. There may be something there that some may get fussy about I just like the look, and they sound good to me.
The stands are custom made from polished granite and aluminium tubing (both fun materials to work with). Stand height is to ensure the drivers are at ~ 36 inches from the floor, cause that is where my ear is when I am sitting on the coach (just before I fall asleep). I have a small commercial sub that I use to augment below 80 cycles. I keep the sub turned dow low so it does not over power things. I am real happy with these and my wife likes the look, so all is good right now.
The only issue I have is that I have too many sets of speakers in the living room and the furniture is getting in the way.
I will take my camera home this weekend and get a few in the living room shots. It looks like a cold rainy weekend here so I will be gooving to some sweet blues this weekend.
Nuff said for now
I hope this helps
Did someone ask about my bi-fonkens. I did some modification to Daves drawings to come up with a presentation style I liked more than the sliced edge style.
I kept the critical stuff the same as Davids design but I used a 1 inch round over and adjusted the internal port length to compensate. I essentially doubled the single fonken design. Mine are made from solid fine grained Douglas-fir.
I am not sure if there is a problem with defraction due to the round over edge vs the cut off edge as these are bi-poles. There may be something there that some may get fussy about I just like the look, and they sound good to me.
The stands are custom made from polished granite and aluminium tubing (both fun materials to work with). Stand height is to ensure the drivers are at ~ 36 inches from the floor, cause that is where my ear is when I am sitting on the coach (just before I fall asleep). I have a small commercial sub that I use to augment below 80 cycles. I keep the sub turned dow low so it does not over power things. I am real happy with these and my wife likes the look, so all is good right now.
The only issue I have is that I have too many sets of speakers in the living room and the furniture is getting in the way.
I will take my camera home this weekend and get a few in the living room shots. It looks like a cold rainy weekend here so I will be gooving to some sweet blues this weekend.
Nuff said for now
I hope this helps
Pics of my bifonkens
Okay here is picture in the living room. All dressed up singing gently. I purchased a nice little SE EL84 when I was in China and hooked it up last night. My what a great combination. I have been listening to some vinyl from the old days and really enjoying things a lot.
Okay here is picture in the living room. All dressed up singing gently. I purchased a nice little SE EL84 when I was in China and hooked it up last night. My what a great combination. I have been listening to some vinyl from the old days and really enjoying things a lot.
Attachments
Hello Lonn:
I am not sure what you are needing in the way of measurements. I followed the design from David keeping all the internal measurement constant. I used 3/4 inch material so I had to adjust for that a bit. I used a Radio Shack terminal block. Here is a shot of the internal brace I made from 1/2 inch plywood. If there is something else you need to know ask and I will try and help.
I am not sure what you are needing in the way of measurements. I followed the design from David keeping all the internal measurement constant. I used 3/4 inch material so I had to adjust for that a bit. I used a Radio Shack terminal block. Here is a shot of the internal brace I made from 1/2 inch plywood. If there is something else you need to know ask and I will try and help.
Attachments
Banned
Joined 2002
Here is a shot of the glue up. Lots of clamps. Got to move fairly quickly that glue dries fast. I usually wet down the joints first to help slow things down a bit. Things are a little tense from when the lid comes off the glue till when the lid comes off the beer. It is definitly worth though.
Attachments
Planet10,
I have a question about the mods to the Fe127. I had no trouble finding puzzlecoat ; ductseal is avail online; but I cant find damar varnish.
I did find a varnish made for protecting acrylic paint. It was sold right next to KAMAR aeresol varnish. There are no ingredients listed on the bottle. Is this essentially the same stuff ? Will anything else do ?
BTW, I have had a pair of Fe127s in a BR box for a while , and against a wall they have good bass down to about 50 hz. On a whim I quickly put together some "tombstone" cabs from this thread. wow, detail and clarity are much improved. I can hear details that are just not present in the BR. Bass extension suffers a little, but overall the improvement is profound.
So, now I am excited about modifying the drivers and tuning the cabs. I may have to get a sub, but what a great sounding pair of speakers.
thanks, tom
I have a question about the mods to the Fe127. I had no trouble finding puzzlecoat ; ductseal is avail online; but I cant find damar varnish.
I did find a varnish made for protecting acrylic paint. It was sold right next to KAMAR aeresol varnish. There are no ingredients listed on the bottle. Is this essentially the same stuff ? Will anything else do ?
BTW, I have had a pair of Fe127s in a BR box for a while , and against a wall they have good bass down to about 50 hz. On a whim I quickly put together some "tombstone" cabs from this thread. wow, detail and clarity are much improved. I can hear details that are just not present in the BR. Bass extension suffers a little, but overall the improvement is profound.
So, now I am excited about modifying the drivers and tuning the cabs. I may have to get a sub, but what a great sounding pair of speakers.
thanks, tom
SCD said:
Ok, let me ask it this way then:
Where is the original design from David?
I dropped the ball on this, I wasn't keeping up with the
thread.
Build in progress: One BIB for the 127e to see how it
turns out from materials I've been getting for it over time.
I want to make a sample 'mule' of the Big Boy Fonken
as well.
Thanks for responding. My projects are not weekenders,
they tend to take a long time. I'm intrigued by the
"Metronome" as well. If I had access to what's called
'KerfCore" that would be an ideal project for it.
well that's good news
We have one of those here.
I make take the plunge and put some goo on my
precious FE127e's at some point.
Scott or somebody was going to make a how-to for this
if I recall correctly.
I could't understand the difference between damar
_coating_ and damar 'decorating' the cone surface with
those (((( )))) patterns.
BSDprophet said:Found Damar Varnish in Hobby Lobby.
We have one of those here.
I make take the plunge and put some goo on my
precious FE127e's at some point.
Scott or somebody was going to make a how-to for this
if I recall correctly.
I could't understand the difference between damar
_coating_ and damar 'decorating' the cone surface with
those (((( )))) patterns.
The art supply place had a varnish for paintings, it just wasnt damar (brand?). I think its prob. the same stuff, just wondered if anyone knew before I actually put it on the drivers.
tom [/B][/QUOTE]
ASPORS
Damar is the sap from a pine tree that grows in southeast Asia. Grumbacher brand at Hobby Lobby is the brand that I selected; it was 1/2 the price of the other brand that they carry. Also, if you go on line to the Hobby Lobby site you can find a coupon for 40% off.
tom [/B][/QUOTE]
ASPORS
Damar is the sap from a pine tree that grows in southeast Asia. Grumbacher brand at Hobby Lobby is the brand that I selected; it was 1/2 the price of the other brand that they carry. Also, if you go on line to the Hobby Lobby site you can find a coupon for 40% off.