Yes, Chris is very skilled and has a nice shop to do it in.
The wood cone driver is rather neutral sounding like a paper diver and the Onken style enclosure is one of the few venting styles that doesn't sound bloated to me. Almost like sealed and the depth these things reach is surprising. No need for a helper woofer at all.
The wood cone driver is rather neutral sounding like a paper diver and the Onken style enclosure is one of the few venting styles that doesn't sound bloated to me. Almost like sealed and the depth these things reach is surprising. No need for a helper woofer at all.
Indeed the quality and extension of the bottom was the first thing that struck me with the FR179s. They are still very early in their break-in, and if I may be permitted - some harshness and resonances in the upper vocal and wind instrument range that's similar to what I've heard from many untreated whizzer coned drivers of this size range ( Fostex mostly).
The wood cones are actually reconstituted veneer similar to that seen in architectural veneers the like of Evolution HD by Cedan, Brookside ,etc - but of coarse thicker and without the paper or phenolic backer, and it wouldn't likely lend itself to shallow curvilinear profiles such as paper or metals can be (relatively - ask Mark Fenlon about that 😀) easily be formed.
There are several other "wood" coned models of similar design - someone with time and money to burn might be inspired to experiment 😉
The wood cones are actually reconstituted veneer similar to that seen in architectural veneers the like of Evolution HD by Cedan, Brookside ,etc - but of coarse thicker and without the paper or phenolic backer, and it wouldn't likely lend itself to shallow curvilinear profiles such as paper or metals can be (relatively - ask Mark Fenlon about that 😀) easily be formed.
There are several other "wood" coned models of similar design - someone with time and money to burn might be inspired to experiment 😉
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Polar data for Nautaloss I & II
This is posted in a different thread but for completeness I am putting links here for polar response data from 0 deg to 90 deg measured 1 meter away for both the Nautaloss I and II.
Nautaloss I:
Nautaloss II:
This is posted in a different thread but for completeness I am putting links here for polar response data from 0 deg to 90 deg measured 1 meter away for both the Nautaloss I and II.
Nautaloss I:
Nautaloss II:
X,
Please see the attached - I hope it makes it a bit clearer. The first photo shows the marked-out cut-lines. The FC is nominally 30 inch (or 76.2 cm) long, but I've seen some small variations, so my cut-lines assume a total length of 76.1 cm (and I trim the length if required). Each fold adds about 1 mm to the outside dimension and, depending how the one glue joint is configured, the thickness of the FC (5 mm) needs to be taken into account. I quite like this way of making "the box" - only one glue joint (for 4 of the sides) to worry about and nice rounded corners, but it's obviously limited by the length of the FC board - perfect for my Nautaloss though😛
I added the second Fountek FE85 to my (one) Nautaloss box and a big improvement in sound level. I added BSC based on your recommendation and also a 2nd order high pass at 200 Hz. I can't wait to finish the second box and hook them up with the Nautaloss Dayton sub.
Cheers!
Attachments
Thanks for the photos - much clearer now how you did it. Nice technique and saves on a lot of gluing joints. I will try it on my next box.
How do you like the sound of the dual driver Nautaloss with BSC and high pass filter? What are you using for the 2nd order high pass? Passive line level HPF or speaker level big fat capacitor and coil?
Looking forward to your listening impressions with the full system.
How do you like the sound of the dual driver Nautaloss with BSC and high pass filter? What are you using for the 2nd order high pass? Passive line level HPF or speaker level big fat capacitor and coil?
Looking forward to your listening impressions with the full system.
DYIaholic
Just beautiful!
I fear I may have got the bug bad. Spent the last week wading through the TPA3116D2 amp thread (thanks X!) and now have a board on order. I need to run the FC speakers with something don't I😉
Cheers!
Just beautiful!
I fear I may have got the bug bad. Spent the last week wading through the TPA3116D2 amp thread (thanks X!) and now have a board on order. I need to run the FC speakers with something don't I😉
Cheers!
You should have ordered two boards then when you get a miniDSP, you are set for a 2x4 active XO. 🙂 I ordered two boards almost 3 weeks ago and they are just leaving China now. One of the problems with Aliexpress (not very express...)
Fat capacitor and coil. I've got the Nautaloss set up near field with a single vifa mini Karlsonator on the other side. Obviously a weird combo and a bit hard to draw any conclusions, but in a strange way the ample bass from the Karlsonator compensates for the lack in the Nautaloss and it's listenable. I'll report back once I've finished the second box and have it correctly set up with the sub.
Cheers!
Dear oh dear, I fear where this is heading...
As an aside, I ordered this board: . I like the idea of control over the sub XO.
Cheers!
That is the exact board I want to order next - it will be good to hear your opinion of it first. I also want to order some of the YJ 2.0 Blue Boards (designed by Danzz and lifted right off these forums by the Chinese vendors).
I'm rather keen to try it out too. I have a Lepai 2.1 and whilst the amp itself is okay the adjustable XO is terrible - all sorts of HF bleed through. I needed to add a fat coil to make it anyway functionable, which kinda defeats the purpose.
Cheers!
I think you are going down the road I am and will eventually get something like a miniDSP or miniSHARC. Once you experience real time XO adjustment - you won't go back to speaker level XO's. It is so convenient and great for testing out new setups. Totally worth $80 for miniDSP and $10 for plugin. They get you on shipping though... There is absolutely no bleed in with the XO if you pick a steep curve like a 48dB/oct LR or BW. You can pick your choice of slope 6dB, 12dB, 18dB, 24dB, 36dB, 48dB. Butterworth, Linkwitz-Riley. Any frequency you want. BSC or any EQ is a snap. I highly recommend it given that good quality bi-amping is so cheap now.
Oh dear, I've been doing some reading and I think you are right. Let's do it with bits and bytes rather than with brute force manipulating magnetic fields. Makes a lot of sense!
Nautaloss II - Fountek FE85
X,
I finally got around to finishing the second (Nautaloss FE85) enclosure and have just been listening to them mated to the Dayton sub. I didn't have the second XO and BSC wired up yet and so just used a 147 uF cap on both satellites. First listening impressions with this set up were not good - harsh and squawky - which I guess was to be expected. Very happy with the sub though.
The next step is to get set up for taking measurements to assist me in getting the XO and BSC correct. I've also got a feeling a miniDSP will soon be on order😉.
Cheers!
X,
I finally got around to finishing the second (Nautaloss FE85) enclosure and have just been listening to them mated to the Dayton sub. I didn't have the second XO and BSC wired up yet and so just used a 147 uF cap on both satellites. First listening impressions with this set up were not good - harsh and squawky - which I guess was to be expected. Very happy with the sub though.
The next step is to get set up for taking measurements to assist me in getting the XO and BSC correct. I've also got a feeling a miniDSP will soon be on order😉.
Cheers!
I am not sure if the problem is with the aluminum cones Founteks. It may be that you don't have the baffle step correctly applied which requires either a BSC that is more aggressive, or the driver is harsh in general. Maybe buy some Vifa's and swap it out? Alternatively, hold off judgement until you get a mic, miniDSP, and REW all setup. They make a difference in the sound. Although I recall the Vifa's sounded pretty good running full range with the sub running full range.
I have some - good idea. I'll also try a crude baffle out a complete sheet of FC for a comparison.
Unrolled Nautaloss - the "Dagger" with FE103EN
Here is a design for an unrolled Nautaloss called the Dagger for an easy build using flat wood panels. This design is for Cradeldorf who is interested in using FE103EN's.
The sim ended up with a 8 in tall x 5 in wide baffle where the drive mounts and the Dagger is 35 inches long. This driver will need a BSC (0.9 mH and 6 ohm) to keep the XO below 1 kHz. Without the BSC, the roll-off starts too high and the woofer will be expected to go up to 1kHz. Maybe this is OK but I was thinking more of a FAST-style alignment.
Here is a design for an unrolled Nautaloss called the Dagger for an easy build using flat wood panels. This design is for Cradeldorf who is interested in using FE103EN's.
The sim ended up with a 8 in tall x 5 in wide baffle where the drive mounts and the Dagger is 35 inches long. This driver will need a BSC (0.9 mH and 6 ohm) to keep the XO below 1 kHz. Without the BSC, the roll-off starts too high and the woofer will be expected to go up to 1kHz. Maybe this is OK but I was thinking more of a FAST-style alignment.
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Yes. No wooden board needed just solder the two parts together and zip tie and hot melt to the inside.
Okay cool, I'll give it a shot this weekend and then report back. Thanks Buddy. 🙂
I'm gonna screw it to the outside since all I have are Erse super q inductors. 😉 gonna need to source the resistors though. wouldn't the crossover that's built into the subwoofer do this?
I'm gonna screw it to the outside since all I have are Erse super q inductors. 😉 gonna need to source the resistors though. wouldn't the crossover that's built into the subwoofer do this?
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