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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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spit from Full Range Speaker Photo Gallery
Nice. How do you cut the 45 degree sides? In one operation or separate, one and one board before gluing? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Maryland USA
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I build them a little different than the plans.
I dado cut groves in the top and bottom for the, sides, brace and back. A good “trick” is to cut the pieces at the same time; next to impossible to re-set the fence exactly in the same position. E.g.: Cut for length: sides (inter), brace and back (4 pieces). Cut for width: top, bottom and back. Glue up the 6 pieces above, it should be somewhat easy. Cut the front baffle board 45degrees, should be a bit “wide” 1/16” on each side, this can be trimmed with a flush router bit. Add vent strips. Cut the outside panels, 45degrees, (oversized) glue these on, line up the back perfectly; going in the saw next! Use a good blade, “back up” the little corner with scrap hardwood for a good clean cut at the end. I did this a few times: the sneak-up-on it method. Last step, go back and trim up the length: front and sides, they were left 1/8” long. One other little trick to make life easier, enlarge the plans full scale on a copier; this fit nicely on an 11 x 17 sheet. Please remember, this is slightly different then the classic build, I do like that the damping material can be added via the front. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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When I built my Mar-Kel70 I put the whole box together before doing the 45 degree cut with a circle saw, very easy. Then remove the top plate, add stuffing, wires and driver and the glue and screw the top plate back to the box.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Unless you have a big-a$$ table saw, there will be a limit to how deep a chamfer you can cut in a single pass on a fully assembled enclosure, particularly on boxes like the Fonkens in Doug's photo. These use layers of 15 & 18mm plus up to 9.5mm for port spacers - that can mean a bevel over 45mm deep and 60mm across the diagonal.
Doug's assembly approach is different from mine - I assemble the three layers of side panels as a sandwich, attach the full width front baffle, top and bottom and cut bevels on 14" sliding saw. Not all DIYers or even small cabinet shops have one of those, and his technique is as valid as any. oh yes, BTW Doug, how'd the latest project turn out?
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi Last edited by chrisb; 3rd January 2012 at 05:09 PM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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I built mine in 12mm... And if I remember correctly I had to do two cuts because there was about 1cm left after the first cut.
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chinook Country.Alberta
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Quote:
__________________
stew ☮ -"A sane man in an insane world appears insane." |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
hell, with enough time & skill you could carve a 80ft totem pole with a pen knife
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Maryland USA
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Odougbo is pretty good with his belt sander, he thinks the 4" x 24" works the best. If he was to do that, he would add scrap wood/runners so not to overcut/sand.
Pre cutting the bevels is not a big thing, the whole project took two days (double 16 hour days). |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
chrisb is a member of that club - welcome aboard
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
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All you need is a razor sharp bench plane, you could do the chamfers in about 5 mins each or less, you would need skill of course, but what's wrong with that?
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