Well our thinking on this particular design was to keep the baffle width as narrow as possible - for both aesthetic and acoustic reasons - and that bevels are a lot easier to machine than very large radius round-overs.
Yes they could be eliminated, and in fact my own HT system's center channel ( Alpair 7) is wide / short with a slot port at each end - the tuning logic is similar to the "Prime" series, but the enclosure construction is much simpler - somewhat similar to .
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No chempher or a roundover require some adjustment of the inside end of the vent to compensate for the otherwise increased vent length.
dave
baffle bevel
Hi there jb: Check out "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook" 7th ed, by Vance Dickason, page 106 &b107, and table 2.2 (FR), where baffle edge difraction is discussed. If you used a sphere, the variation is presented as 1.08db, 4-inch bevel 1.13, for rectangle corners 3.03.
....regards, Michael
Hi there jb: Check out "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook" 7th ed, by Vance Dickason, page 106 &b107, and table 2.2 (FR), where baffle edge difraction is discussed. If you used a sphere, the variation is presented as 1.08db, 4-inch bevel 1.13, for rectangle corners 3.03.
....regards, Michael
Sorry, mate - didn't read properly...
in my head I saw 45 deg box mitering - not the Onken front bevels....
The 10" blade reaches okay, that's still a lot of material to rip/cut. The last cut is the most nerve racking, but it's not that bad. I wouldn't try it in on pass, one small bump and there a huge mark or burning.
There are always table saws on ebay, some starting as low as $50. The saws with a motor mounted below or on the back are good, i.e. you may want to ramp it up with a bigger motor someday.
I always liked the "contractor grade" saws, good prices, hefty motor and way less $$ than cabinet shop grade.
POWERMATIC - 64A 10 Table Saw, 1.5HP 1PH, w/ 30 Accu-Fence System
There are always table saws on ebay, some starting as low as $50. The saws with a motor mounted below or on the back are good, i.e. you may want to ramp it up with a bigger motor someday.
I always liked the "contractor grade" saws, good prices, hefty motor and way less $$ than cabinet shop grade.
POWERMATIC - 64A 10 Table Saw, 1.5HP 1PH, w/ 30 Accu-Fence System
One thought comes to mind, and obvious to some; a "ground table" is better than the stamped steel; but that would be extra cash. The issue with stamped steel tables, is the materail can dip into the "pockets". If you are only working on small projects, not a problem.
The best thing you can do for a table saw, is build an out-feed-table, this can be all day job (or more) but well worth it.
The best thing you can do for a table saw, is build an out-feed-table, this can be all day job (or more) but well worth it.
Dewalt has jumped in the saw guide market:
Dewalt DC351LKL Heavy-Duty 6-1/2 (165mm) 28V Cordless TrackSaw Kit with 102" Track - Toolfetch.com
Can always make one up using some straight plywood, 1/4" for the "base" and 1/2" for the guide rail.
Dewalt DC351LKL Heavy-Duty 6-1/2 (165mm) 28V Cordless TrackSaw Kit with 102" Track - Toolfetch.com
Can always make one up using some straight plywood, 1/4" for the "base" and 1/2" for the guide rail.
Very good point, I've seen people work with blunt saws and blame just about everything but the blade, just run a circular saw through a gritty plank and it's pretty well blunt.
I've been buying these for a while now, they go on sale all the time.
I clean the graphic (ink) before using, as I do with all my blades, they stay cleaner, longer and less drag.
10", 50 Tooth Alternate Top Bevel Design Novelty Combo Blade
I clean the graphic (ink) before using, as I do with all my blades, they stay cleaner, longer and less drag.
10", 50 Tooth Alternate Top Bevel Design Novelty Combo Blade
Have you tried PTFE spray? I find it makes quite a difference, it helps on fences and tables also but is pricey, wax is good too.
sawblades
I don't care for the combo format with the deep gullet every 5th tooth. They tend to throw wood in my face since I cut everything at least twice. And a good saw shop will get your blade sharper than new, and maintain tension if they're diligent. Not every shop will do though; some are carbide blasters.
I don't care for the combo format with the deep gullet every 5th tooth. They tend to throw wood in my face since I cut everything at least twice. And a good saw shop will get your blade sharper than new, and maintain tension if they're diligent. Not every shop will do though; some are carbide blasters.
If your talking saw blades, and they are important to getting god results on difficult cuts, then these are worth a look
Forrest Saw Blades - Quality Since 1946
The woodworker 2 at 1/8" thick
Forrest Saw Blades - Woodworker 2 Saw Blades Information
the duraline hi AT
Forrest Duraline HI-A/T Saw Blade Information
both excellent choices
Evan
Forrest Saw Blades - Quality Since 1946
The woodworker 2 at 1/8" thick
Forrest Saw Blades - Woodworker 2 Saw Blades Information
the duraline hi AT
Forrest Duraline HI-A/T Saw Blade Information
both excellent choices
Evan
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