wupsie: personally I almost exclusively apply my finishes with HVLP spray equipment, no more than 2 coats with a slight sanding with 3M foam sanding pads between coats. This seems to give a nice balance of build thickness/protection, retaining the texture of veneer, and when equipment is properly adjusted, a smooth finish that requires no further sanding .
Keep in mind that some veneers ( Oak, Beech, Sapele/Mahoganys ) have much deeper pore structure than say Cherry, Walnut, Maple. The porosity is an entirely different quality than the direction / dimensionality of grain figuring, and that the full extent of the latter may not show up with the first "sealer" coat. If you want to fill the pores, you're far better off with neutral fillers before applying any color or finish.
To test for need for sanding to remove factory chatter / sanding marks that Bob described, a quick wipe with contact cement solvent (xylene based and very quick flash-off ) and side-light inspection will reveal those and any slight abrasions that can occur during the application of veneer.
One thing not yet mentioned is that if you're planning on using any solvent based stain or finish products to non-foil backed veneers ( i.e. paper backed or natural flitches) do not use solvent based contact cement adhesives. The iron-one glue method is tried and true, takes very little practice and provides lots of tolerance for fine adjustment that any contact adhesives won't.
Keep in mind that some veneers ( Oak, Beech, Sapele/Mahoganys ) have much deeper pore structure than say Cherry, Walnut, Maple. The porosity is an entirely different quality than the direction / dimensionality of grain figuring, and that the full extent of the latter may not show up with the first "sealer" coat. If you want to fill the pores, you're far better off with neutral fillers before applying any color or finish.
To test for need for sanding to remove factory chatter / sanding marks that Bob described, a quick wipe with contact cement solvent (xylene based and very quick flash-off ) and side-light inspection will reveal those and any slight abrasions that can occur during the application of veneer.
One thing not yet mentioned is that if you're planning on using any solvent based stain or finish products to non-foil backed veneers ( i.e. paper backed or natural flitches) do not use solvent based contact cement adhesives. The iron-one glue method is tried and true, takes very little practice and provides lots of tolerance for fine adjustment that any contact adhesives won't.
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Hello chrisb; i presume u have a 3 stage HVLP spray system??
Here in holland a set goes for about 500 euro's, thats a lot of money, for me
ill take a look at your profile to see the results u got with this system, more then curieus here.
U use this system inside??u have a paint/spray room with aircirculation?
According to the fact that this system has low level waste paint..it could be used outside??
Thanks for the tips, ill use them on future projects.
Do u have any idea about my bassport problem???
http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab228/wupsie1/alpair griffin/IMG_0258.jpg
looks like i need to resize the pictures
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actually something like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Running at about 40lbs pressure ( dried air supply) .
yes - when dialed down to the appropriate atomization levels for the catalyzed lacquer, there's a lot of mist in the air, and filtered extraction fan is used to aid in drying process.Here in holland a set goes for about 500 euro's, thats a lot of money, for me
ill take a look at your profile to see the results u got with this system, more then curieus here.
U use this system inside??u have a paint/spray room with air circulation?
The system is high efficiency in terms of applying product to surfaces, but I'd only want to use it in the controlled condition of an enclosed spray booth. As the LP portion of the name implies, application is at relatively low pressure - but there is a lot of atomization, and even though we're using reduced VOC materials, there is still enough release of the solvent vapours that filtered respirators are required.
The other problem with outside application is airborne contamination on slower curing finishes (lacquers, conversion varnishes, etc) - "a fly in the ointment" is not just an expression, and can cause hours of grief to fix. .
And, yes, we've tried several of the water borne products, and been less than thrilled with the results, so we're sticking with solvent based nitro-cellulose lacquers.
Update:
Now i have the enclosures airtight, i think it is wise to leave them as they are, and enjoy them for another 200 hours.
Then the burn in period is over, and then ill experiment with damping.
B.t.w: i am still a bit worried about my location for the reflex tube.
If the displacement is not a problem, ill leave it where it is
Please, i know i am a freakin newbie, but please help me out here
Another question: whats a realy good book on speakerbuilding?
Thank u guys for the patients and advice, already learned a lot thanks to this forum
Now i have the enclosures airtight, i think it is wise to leave them as they are, and enjoy them for another 200 hours.
Then the burn in period is over, and then ill experiment with damping.
B.t.w: i am still a bit worried about my location for the reflex tube.
If the displacement is not a problem, ill leave it where it is
Please, i know i am a freakin newbie, but please help me out here
Another question: whats a realy good book on speakerbuilding?
Thank u guys for the patients and advice, already learned a lot thanks to this forum
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Oi Naturall
Belezura de caixas. Thanks for share your work
You might help me to decide for this MLTL size:
What is the room size and listening distance?
What is the associated power amp?
Valeu, thanks
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