Hello again,
as I wrote some days ago, the P7.2HD is somewhat boring, to me at least. Now I mounted the A7MS againg and I like it. However, is it possible that the speaker (or this construction) shows, when the music is purely recorded or even very good? It sings really wonderful with a high-res recording from Allan Taylor, and annoying with not so highly sophisticated recordings.
Apart from this, the A7MS shows more "weight" and "body" and openness, while the P7.2HD stays in the background and seems not to like bigger soundmasses.
as I wrote some days ago, the P7.2HD is somewhat boring, to me at least. Now I mounted the A7MS againg and I like it. However, is it possible that the speaker (or this construction) shows, when the music is purely recorded or even very good? It sings really wonderful with a high-res recording from Allan Taylor, and annoying with not so highly sophisticated recordings.
Apart from this, the A7MS shows more "weight" and "body" and openness, while the P7.2HD stays in the background and seems not to like bigger soundmasses.
Hello!
As the rear chamber of my FH was full of stuffing, I had to remove all of it, but it is almost impossible. Then came an idea, and my now good friend, a flexible gripping claw helped me
To put the stuffing back I used a flexible drill shaft.
So now there is 35 gr stuffing in the front and 35 gr in the rear chamber, and 17 gr behind the driver.
And boy what a huge difference! Now there is plenty of bass just 9 inches in front of the wall (no corner placement possible), great soundstage and the upper mids are not shrill anymore, it is just a great open sound. I am really excited
Thanks for your help again!
Cheers
As the rear chamber of my FH was full of stuffing, I had to remove all of it, but it is almost impossible. Then came an idea, and my now good friend, a flexible gripping claw helped me
To put the stuffing back I used a flexible drill shaft. So now there is 35 gr stuffing in the front and 35 gr in the rear chamber, and 17 gr behind the driver.
And boy what a huge difference! Now there is plenty of bass just 9 inches in front of the wall (no corner placement possible), great soundstage and the upper mids are not shrill anymore, it is just a great open sound. I am really excited
Thanks for your help again!
Cheers
Attachments
Thank you Zman!
I still have to adjust or fine tune the mids, I think now it is slightly overdampened, but it is just a matter of personal taste.
And there are of course my Pluvia 7.2hd's, I could give them another try (but the required brake-in time of 100 hours plus the improvement until up to 800 hours according to the answer from MA ist really long...).
Cheers
I still have to adjust or fine tune the mids, I think now it is slightly overdampened, but it is just a matter of personal taste.
And there are of course my Pluvia 7.2hd's, I could give them another try (but the required brake-in time of 100 hours plus the improvement until up to 800 hours according to the answer from MA ist really long...).
Cheers
Just playing around with my Frugels, next (last?) round of the adjustments. This time I ended up with just 2 gr stuffing behind the driver (A7MS) and the speakers stand just 3 inches in front of the wall, without spikes. And here it is - it sounds great. Plenty of bass with punch and pressure, clear and open mids without screaming, detailed but not overemphasized highs. It was a long way to set them to suit my room and my taste, but it works
Did I mention that I drive them with two bridged ACAs?
Did I mention that I drive them with two bridged ACAs?
What's the latest intel on the stuffing of the Frugel-Horn Mk. 3 when used with the Alpair 7P driver?
I'm finally getting around to building the flatpack I bought from Dave back in 2018. Because, ya know... You shouldn't rush into these things. The build is progressing and I'm at the point where I need to go and tease the Acousta-Stuff. I have four bags of it: Two marked "40 g" and two marked "30 g". This begs the question: do the 30 g go in the closed end of the horn (triangular space below the terminal cup) or in the open end of the horn (larger space below the driver)?
It seems this is the topic of some debate. Maybe Dave could chime in with the official word.
I see now why woodworkers have wood shops. Even though the flatpack comes together pretty easily, working on the dining table is pain. I'm better set up for metalwork.
Thanks,
Tom
I'm finally getting around to building the flatpack I bought from Dave back in 2018. Because, ya know... You shouldn't rush into these things.
The build is progressing and I'm at the point where I need to go and tease the Acousta-Stuff. I have four bags of it: Two marked "40 g" and two marked "30 g". This begs the question: do the 30 g go in the closed end of the horn (triangular space below the terminal cup) or in the open end of the horn (larger space below the driver)?It seems this is the topic of some debate. Maybe Dave could chime in with the official word.
I see now why woodworkers have wood shops. Even though the flatpack comes together pretty easily, working on the dining table is pain. I'm better set up for metalwork.
Thanks,
Tom
Attachments
Good afternoon, I’ve been giving some thought to building my own speakers for a while and stumbled across these Frugel horns and very much like the design! Can someone steer me to a few answer while I wade through the detailed posts on these speakers?
I currently run a Prima Luna Evo intergrated into hybrid hORNS Aria II horn speakers ( although these horns are an exception to the rule and are only in the high 80db sensitive but work extremely well with my amplifier.
so I’m assuming my amp which generates 44watts from 4x el34 ( old stock 1950 Mullards and 4x 1980 NOS Mullard 12AU7 up front). Would suffice.
im quite capable with DIY and have been an engineer all my life so don’t envisage any trouble building.
where can kits be ordered from ( I’m in the UK) given shipping often invalidates a purchase some times?
I appreciate there’s lots of info here already but I’m just fact finding while I digest the lengthy posts.
forgive my inpatients it’s my first post.
Rgds Lee.
I currently run a Prima Luna Evo intergrated into hybrid hORNS Aria II horn speakers ( although these horns are an exception to the rule and are only in the high 80db sensitive but work extremely well with my amplifier.
so I’m assuming my amp which generates 44watts from 4x el34 ( old stock 1950 Mullards and 4x 1980 NOS Mullard 12AU7 up front). Would suffice.
im quite capable with DIY and have been an engineer all my life so don’t envisage any trouble building.
where can kits be ordered from ( I’m in the UK) given shipping often invalidates a purchase some times?
I appreciate there’s lots of info here already but I’m just fact finding while I digest the lengthy posts.
forgive my inpatients it’s my first post.
Rgds Lee.
Many thanks for the kind words (Dave, Chris, Ron and I share responsibility for designing FH3). Your amplifier will have no issue driving them. Re kits in the UK, my friend Stefan at KJF Audio produces excellent flat-packs & also finished speakers if desired:
https://kjfaudio.com/product-category/diy-audio/speaker-kits/wideband-fullrange/
https://kjfaudio.com/product/frugel-horn-3-flat-pack-speaker-kit-copy/#speaker-driver
https://kjfaudio.com/product-category/diy-audio/speaker-kits/wideband-fullrange/
https://kjfaudio.com/product/frugel-horn-3-flat-pack-speaker-kit-copy/#speaker-driver
Hello Lee,
I was in the same frame of mind as you about the FH3s and Colin Topps very kindly invited me to his house to have a listen to a pair.
Can't recall what model the drivers were but they were Mark Audio ones so would have been about 83/85 db.
At the time Colin had a beautiful single ended job of about 6 Watts.
If you have a smart phone or a tablet please install a db meter this will give you a nice average the Android offering being better at 0.1 second that the Iphone/Ipad ones.
You will probably find that you are listening at 75 to 80 db in your case 1/2 to 1 watt. One reads about the 'fall off' due to distance, do bear in mind that these figures are arrived at from measurements in an anechoic chamber (equivalent to a large field). Your room will have lots of reflections negating the 'fall off'.
There's a thread on here called 'the snake oil' well worth reading and asking some questions this cuts through all the rubbish and can save you $1,000's.
Cheers
[edit] I've been listening to my FH3s now for 10+ years and see no reason to change.
I was in the same frame of mind as you about the FH3s and Colin Topps very kindly invited me to his house to have a listen to a pair.
Can't recall what model the drivers were but they were Mark Audio ones so would have been about 83/85 db.
At the time Colin had a beautiful single ended job of about 6 Watts.
If you have a smart phone or a tablet please install a db meter this will give you a nice average the Android offering being better at 0.1 second that the Iphone/Ipad ones.
You will probably find that you are listening at 75 to 80 db in your case 1/2 to 1 watt. One reads about the 'fall off' due to distance, do bear in mind that these figures are arrived at from measurements in an anechoic chamber (equivalent to a large field). Your room will have lots of reflections negating the 'fall off'.
There's a thread on here called 'the snake oil' well worth reading and asking some questions this cuts through all the rubbish and can save you $1,000's.
Cheers
[edit] I've been listening to my FH3s now for 10+ years and see no reason to change.
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For making FH3 enclosure removable, for adjusting damping or changing drivers in future, can we have the whole front baffle as removable ? (have a thin wood strip all along the internal lining of the front part of the enclosure with some T-nuts at the back of them and then screw the front baffle over it )
Or have half of the front baffle fixed on the enclosure and top half removable as above with screws and T-nuts on thin wood strip on interior of the front part of the enclosure.
Or its enough to got with a regular rectangular super baffle without the side wings for adjusting the damping.
Or have half of the front baffle fixed on the enclosure and top half removable as above with screws and T-nuts on thin wood strip on interior of the front part of the enclosure.
Or its enough to got with a regular rectangular super baffle without the side wings for adjusting the damping.
You probably wouldn’t need a full length removable baffle to access the required areas above and below the driver to futz around with damping fill.
Just ensure an airtight seal between the two panels. I liked threaded insert fittings, counter sunk hex or button head machine screws, and closed cell foam weather stripping tape.
Just ensure an airtight seal between the two panels. I liked threaded insert fittings, counter sunk hex or button head machine screws, and closed cell foam weather stripping tape.