Fostex FF85K in the Buschhorn Mk I? - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 27th June 2010, 04:03 PM   #11
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4" drivers instead of 3"?

dave
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Old 28th June 2010, 03:30 AM   #12
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
4" drivers instead of 3"?

dave


but of course as we all know, modifying the MkI design to accommodate a 4" (Fostex or otherwise) is not particularly difficult, and could perhaps even be commercially successful


funny thing is that having built both MKI & II, I vastly preferred the "smaller" design
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Last edited by chrisb; 28th June 2010 at 03:36 AM.
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Old 3rd July 2010, 03:00 AM   #13
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funny thing is that having built both MKI & II, I vastly preferred the "smaller" design
Thanks for the encouragement. I hope I feel the same way when they are done.

There's just something I like about a bunch of wood planks. Dunno what it is. Maybe it's the way the grain fits together like a puzzle.

Click the image to open in full size.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140017.jpg

So, I made the angle jig I found in the previously referenced link. While it isn't completely foolproof, it certainly does work. You need to be scrupulous about keeping everything perfectly square. You also need to be aware of your saw's capacity. For some angles, my 10" saw couldn't cut all the way through the 110mm wide planks, which required flipping them over and finishing the cut from the other side. This is extremely awkward when you're trying to do the 10 degree mitre and you suddenly realize you need a left handed jig.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140015.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140018.jpg

But, it all seems to fit, even better than I expected. I think I can clean up any minor imperfections with the sander. Glue will fill in the rest.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140022.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140027.jpg

All the pieces are cut. Next I need to make the circle for the speaker cutout and chamfer the back side. I have no router, so I'll do this freehand with the RotoZip for the hole and the Dremel tool for the chamfer.

Click the image to open in full size.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140029.jpg
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Old 7th July 2010, 12:47 PM   #14
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I printed a couple templates and made the cutouts for the drivers. The CAD department at work has a plotter that can do drawings up to E size, so I also printed a full size template for the whole cabinet. I wish there were some good way to transfer the template directly onto the side panel and then I'd just build it up there. I may try to assemble as many of the internal pieces as I can, before I start to glue them to the side panel.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140030.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140032.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140038.jpg
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Old 7th July 2010, 06:30 PM   #15
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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I wish there were some good way to transfer the template directly onto the side panel and then I'd just build it up there.
don't we all - until such time it's just a matter of spacer blocks at each corner, 3M #203 masking tape (self adjusting / adhesive temporary band clamps - a Terry Cain favorite) and patience
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Old 7th July 2010, 06:49 PM   #16
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...spacer blocks at each corner,
Spacer blocks? I'm not sure I've seen that trick in action. Are there any photo tutorials out there?

I once cut a spacer when attaching the front of this small enclosure. Do you mean like this?

Click the image to open in full size.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...u/P1120560.jpg

Last edited by Ty_Bower; 7th July 2010 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 7th July 2010, 07:05 PM   #17
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by Ty_Bower View Post
Spacer blocks? I'm not sure I've seen that trick in action. Are there any photo tutorials out there?

I once cut a spacer when attaching the front of this small enclosure. Do you mean like this?

Click the image to open in full size.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...u/P1120560.jpg

pretty much

- if ambient temperature is cool enough that you've got decent open working time on the wood glue (10-15 minutes), you can try for at least 3 or 4 panels glued up per session
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Old 7th July 2010, 09:55 PM   #18
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that you've got decent open working time on the wood glue
Titebond III is good here or better yet a hide glue.
Most of the white versus yellow glues also have a longer working time.
Gorilla glue (nasty stuff I would never use again) would also work.
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Old 7th July 2010, 10:14 PM   #19
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Titebond III is good here or better yet a hide glue.
Most of the white versus yellow glues also have a longer working time.
Gorilla glue (nasty stuff I would never use again) would also work.

some of the newer cabinetmaker adhesives have very quick tack time at ambient temperatures above 70F ( right now it's approx 85F on the upper mezzanine of our production floor) - this can reduce the amount of time you've got to play with adjustment

a lot of white glues (Weldbond, etc) don't have the ultimate strength of yellow, but do have the advantage of drying almost clear and being easier to remove squeeze-out. (actually the newest Titebond III which has great viscosity and tacking characteristics and works very well for iron-one veneering, dries a medium brown)

agree with you on the Gorilla glue- I only use it when its expansion can be helpful in gap filling (just ensure workpieces are well clamped)
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Old 9th July 2010, 01:03 PM   #20
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There's nothing inside them yet, but I couldn't resist lightly clamping the four sides in place just to get a feel for how they look when they're standing. To be honest, I thought they were going to be taller than they are.

Click the image to open in full size.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...0039_front.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...40040_back.jpg
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