Fostex FF85K in the Buschhorn Mk I?

[planet10]

4" drivers instead of 3"?

dave

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by planet10

4" drivers instead of 3"?

dave

but of course as we all know, modifying the MkI design to accommodate a 4" (Fostex or otherwise) is not particularly difficult, and could perhaps even be commercially successful


funny thing is that having built both MKI & II, I vastly preferred the "smaller" design

[Ty_Bower]

Originally Posted by chrisb

funny thing is that having built both MKI & II, I vastly preferred the "smaller" design

Thanks for the encouragement. I hope I feel the same way when they are done.

There's just something I like about a bunch of wood planks. Dunno what it is. Maybe it's the way the grain fits together like a puzzle.


http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140017.jpg

So, I made the angle jig I found in the previously referenced link. While it isn't completely foolproof, it certainly does work. You need to be scrupulous about keeping everything perfectly square. You also need to be aware of your saw's capacity. For some angles, my 10" saw couldn't cut all the way through the 110mm wide planks, which required flipping them over and finishing the cut from the other side. This is extremely awkward when you're trying to do the 10 degree mitre and you suddenly realize you need a left handed jig.


http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140015.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140018.jpg

But, it all seems to fit, even better than I expected. I think I can clean up any minor imperfections with the sander. Glue will fill in the rest.


http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140022.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140027.jpg

All the pieces are cut. Next I need to make the circle for the speaker cutout and chamfer the back side. I have no router, so I'll do this freehand with the RotoZip for the hole and the Dremel tool for the chamfer.


http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140029.jpg

[Ty_Bower]

I printed a couple templates and made the cutouts for the drivers. The CAD department at work has a plotter that can do drawings up to E size, so I also printed a full size template for the whole cabinet. I wish there were some good way to transfer the template directly onto the side panel and then I'd just build it up there. I may try to assemble as many of the internal pieces as I can, before I start to glue them to the side panel.


http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140030.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140032.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140038.jpg

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by Ty_Bower

I wish there were some good way to transfer the template directly onto the side panel and then I'd just build it up there.

don't we all - until such time it's just a matter of spacer blocks at each corner, 3M #203 masking tape (self adjusting / adhesive temporary band clamps - a Terry Cain favorite) and patience

[Ty_Bower]

Originally Posted by chrisb

...spacer blocks at each corner,

Spacer blocks? I'm not sure I've seen that trick in action. Are there any photo tutorials out there?

I once cut a spacer when attaching the front of this small enclosure. Do you mean like this?


http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...u/P1120560.jpg

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by Ty_Bower

Spacer blocks? I'm not sure I've seen that trick in action. Are there any photo tutorials out there?

I once cut a spacer when attaching the front of this small enclosure. Do you mean like this?


http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...u/P1120560.jpg

pretty much

- if ambient temperature is cool enough that you've got decent open working time on the wood glue (10-15 minutes), you can try for at least 3 or 4 panels glued up per session

[Andrewbee]

that you've got decent open working time on the wood glue

Titebond III is good here or better yet a hide glue.
Most of the white versus yellow glues also have a longer working time.
Gorilla glue (nasty stuff I would never use again) would also work.

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by Andrewbee

Titebond III is good here or better yet a hide glue.
Most of the white versus yellow glues also have a longer working time.
Gorilla glue (nasty stuff I would never use again) would also work.

some of the newer cabinetmaker adhesives have very quick tack time at ambient temperatures above 70F ( right now it's approx 85F on the upper mezzanine of our production floor) - this can reduce the amount of time you've got to play with adjustment

a lot of white glues (Weldbond, etc) don't have the ultimate strength of yellow, but do have the advantage of drying almost clear and being easier to remove squeeze-out. (actually the newest Titebond III which has great viscosity and tacking characteristics and works very well for iron-one veneering, dries a medium brown)

agree with you on the Gorilla glue- I only use it when its expansion can be helpful in gap filling (just ensure workpieces are well clamped)

[Ty_Bower]

There's nothing inside them yet, but I couldn't resist lightly clamping the four sides in place just to get a feel for how they look when they're standing. To be honest, I thought they were going to be taller than they are.


http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...0039_front.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...40040_back.jpg