Hi all. I am as you can see new here, so go easy!
I recently bought on a whim a pair of small rear horn loaded FE103E's , small being a standmount, I have not seen the like anywhere else. Later that same week, I bought from a freind an Icon Audio MC34 integrated valve amp and my life has changed since then
I have never heard such clarity in recordings before, and though the treble and bass are somewhat curtailed (actually, the treble is great really, it is just the bass that is a little conspicuous by it's absence....) the other night it felt like I had the Be Good Tanyas right there in front of me....you get the picture.
Anyway, the upshot is that now I am itching to try a bigger design to get a bit more fulness to the sound. I have looked a couple, including Fostex's own designs, and some produced by the talented people on this forum.
So, the question is, do I keep the 103's and build a bigger cabinet, if so which is "best", or do I go for some bigger drivers in a bigger cabinet? I have to say though that whatever road I take I do not want to lose that incredible midrange, or the imaging..
Any suggestions greatly recieved!
Thanks, Steve.
I recently bought on a whim a pair of small rear horn loaded FE103E's , small being a standmount, I have not seen the like anywhere else. Later that same week, I bought from a freind an Icon Audio MC34 integrated valve amp and my life has changed since then
I have never heard such clarity in recordings before, and though the treble and bass are somewhat curtailed (actually, the treble is great really, it is just the bass that is a little conspicuous by it's absence....) the other night it felt like I had the Be Good Tanyas right there in front of me....you get the picture.
Anyway, the upshot is that now I am itching to try a bigger design to get a bit more fulness to the sound. I have looked a couple, including Fostex's own designs, and some produced by the talented people on this forum.
So, the question is, do I keep the 103's and build a bigger cabinet, if so which is "best", or do I go for some bigger drivers in a bigger cabinet? I have to say though that whatever road I take I do not want to lose that incredible midrange, or the imaging..
Any suggestions greatly recieved!
Thanks, Steve.
Fostex' 103 is a very well built unit, and even more interesting, it can be obtained new for under 75 Euros a pair.
I have experimented with the Nagaoka Horn for the FE103E, this horn is approx 80 cm high so no real pain in WAF
I can try and fix you the drawings. The cabinet is too cheap so since you allready got the drivers
I have experimented with the Nagaoka Horn for the FE103E, this horn is approx 80 cm high so no real pain in WAF
I can try and fix you the drawings. The cabinet is too cheap so since you allready got the drivers
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Merijn said:Fostex' 103 is a very well built unit, and even more interesting, it can be obtained new for under 75 Euros a pair.
I have experimented with the Nagaoka Horn for the FE103E, this horn is approx 80 cm high so no real pain in WAF
I can try and fix you the drawings. The cabinet is too cheap so since you allready got the drivers
Hi Merijn, where have I seen the name before.....? They look great, WAF is not a problem, so really any design would be OK, though personally I could not live with for example the "swan"
I have seen a lovely looking design on a site from one of the members here, it is a dual horn, not sure if it is suitable for the 103 though, this is why I was wondering should I go for some larger drivers, I wouldn't mind so long as I don't lose that lovely midrange.
aquapiranha said:
Hmmm, mij name is even here in The Netherlands not to standard
. Have we met? If so, sorry, I just don't remember 
The horns I made are the Standard Recomended Fostex Horns for the FE103E
Plans are here:
Fostex FE103E Nogaoka Horn
planet10 said:
Hi planet10, they do look a bit similar to the ones I have. I have already had a look at your site, and used the inks to the "spawn" family of encloseures that I like the look of, not least because some of them look relativly easy to build. What would you recommend? Do I stick with the 103's? or go for a bigger driver in one of those lovely spawn cabinets?
aquapiranha said:
Do I stick with the 103's? or go for a bigger driver in one of those lovely spawn cabinets?
I have built several variations of DIY cabinets using fullrange. I am in the middle of completing Suzy Chang (one of the spawns, custom designed for FE107E) (similar to FE103 but shielded). These cabinets in particular optimize bass without losing the highs and I assume mids.
There is no reason not to build spawns in my humble opinion. I also liked BIBs but spawns are nearly as easy to build and I like the style better.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
gychang
Using the 103s would mean leaving your BK101 driverless... but i suspect that they would go into Suzy Chang. Might also work in Aiko.
Bigger drivers give more bass (but if you go bigger than FE126/127 you start sacrificing midrange quality.
Questions you have to ask are room size, budget, amplifiers
dave
Bigger drivers give more bass (but if you go bigger than FE126/127 you start sacrificing midrange quality.
Questions you have to ask are room size, budget, amplifiers
dave
Thanks for the replies guys, it is plain you all know what you are talking about.
I have some more details for you...
Source..
Soon to be a Mac, via an outboard DAC, maybe a Beresford or possibly an Apogee if I can afford it.
Amplifier..
Currently I am using an Icon Audio MC34, as the name suggests, it uses EL34 valves, and sounds sweet.
Room..
Around 7M X 5M, with cielings just over 2M. The room has laminate flooring (yes, I know..) but there is plenty of soft furnishings and bookshelves, CD racks etc...
Positioning is not an issue for me, I need no WAF factor...
Thanks again chaps.
I have some more details for you...
Source..
Soon to be a Mac, via an outboard DAC, maybe a Beresford or possibly an Apogee if I can afford it.
Amplifier..
Currently I am using an Icon Audio MC34, as the name suggests, it uses EL34 valves, and sounds sweet.
Room..
Around 7M X 5M, with cielings just over 2M. The room has laminate flooring (yes, I know..) but there is plenty of soft furnishings and bookshelves, CD racks etc...
Positioning is not an issue for me, I need no WAF factor...
Thanks again chaps.
aquapiranha said:
I've been working towards this for awhile and just came into a DAC i can live with (Edirol UA=25 found used so within the vanishingly small budget
Triode? Pentode? UL?
We have fir floors. With the ceiling at an angle it isn't as much an issue as i expected... not having to live with dust mites is a huge bonus thou...
dave
planet10 said:
I believe it is triode, non UL.
I am prepared to sacrifice just a little odf that gorgeous midrange for just a little more weight. I am OK with a saw, though I am guessing a band / table saw will be on the cards.
I will have a look at the Edirol UA=25, not seen it before.
Thanks. Steve.
go to mj king's website for quarter wave loudspeakers.
he has just completed design for a passive OB using the humble
fe103e
cough up another 300$ and let me know how they worked out.
I bet you could build them very quickly and the would be awsome
in your room. consider hanging them from the ceiling, pointing slightly
down, four feet out from the front wall
after playing around with them on the floor.
I believe that this is a 4 ohm design , but if you have beefy transformers,
that's what the 4 ohm taps are for!
will you do it? david sundby sundbyd-at-comcast.net
he has just completed design for a passive OB using the humble
fe103e
cough up another 300$ and let me know how they worked out.
I bet you could build them very quickly and the would be awsome
in your room. consider hanging them from the ceiling, pointing slightly
down, four feet out from the front wall
after playing around with them on the floor.
I believe that this is a 4 ohm design , but if you have beefy transformers,
that's what the 4 ohm taps are for!
will you do it? david sundby sundbyd-at-comcast.net
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