Hi aquapiranha, where abouts roughly are you on the Wirral? I'm in Wallasey and have a pair of CSS FR125s in the ported enclosures by Vikash http://vikash.info/audio/FR125S/ if you fancy a listen just for comparison. They are the only full range speakers I've heard but they pleased me that much I'm thinking of a pair of Planet10 Harveys for them. If they sound that good in small boxes..............
Be warned, this is addictive.
Be warned, this is addictive.
Hi John, I am in Bromborough. That would be great, although it would have to be after the end of this week as I am a little tied up until then. If you like I could bring the little BLH Fostex's, but don't expect miracles!
I am in the process of sourcing some nice ply at the moment, there is a place in E. Port that can supply all manner of finishes and thicknesses, this is to make the Hiro, a spawn of frugal-horn design. Here..
http://www.frugal-horn.com/spawn.html
I am going to have to get a few extra tools together though, not least a table saw! (oh, and a load of clamps...)
I have been recommended some drivers at Planet10 (thanks Scott) and hope to start it all off soon..
Steve.
I am in the process of sourcing some nice ply at the moment, there is a place in E. Port that can supply all manner of finishes and thicknesses, this is to make the Hiro, a spawn of frugal-horn design. Here..
http://www.frugal-horn.com/spawn.html
I am going to have to get a few extra tools together though, not least a table saw! (oh, and a load of clamps...)
I have been recommended some drivers at Planet10 (thanks Scott) and hope to start it all off soon..
Steve.
john blackburn said:
more accurately Frugal-Horn Harveys or Spawn Harveys (i know it can be confusing with me (planet10), my company (Planet10-hifi) and that the latter as a prime sponsor of the Frugal-Horn's site)....
I just want to make the association that Planet10 <anything> (ie Planet10 Fonken) is a commercial product (but OK for a diyer to build for himeself) vrs Frugal-Horns which are open source
We would even encourage people to start manufacturing them on a small scale for resale (and that small only in that it fits with our frugal-phile(tm) philosophy -- if they started getting built by large manufacturers they would need to be shipped all over, probably have distribs & dealers and cost 4-10x as much as from the 1 or 2 guys churning out bespoke units in the backyard shop).
dave
aquapiranha said:
At this point i'd have to special order FE166s, but as my driver equity starts building up (and more drivers go out the door) i'll be able to afford to start ordering them at the required 20 at a time. If your timing is right, then it will almost seem like i have them in stock.
We are just starting our evaluation phase on the new FE127, and what we learn there will be used 1st on 207 (Marc E is getting the 1st set for his Curvy Chang, so these will get 1st exposure in NE England) and then onto 167 (just because i have some of those). Scott will also be taking what we learn to his 167s which i guess are already causing a bit of a stir. Based on the FE127 results, he wouldn't be able to live with his befores after being exposed to his afters.
dave
I designed Hiro with the 166 and 167 primarily in mind. The 166 will have more gain, the 167 will be a bit smoother and roll off a little earlier.
I'd get on the cabinets while waiting for Dave to get them in. You wouldn't be able to do much with them until the cabinets were build anyway, short of giving them a thrashing in the garage with an old amp & source to loosen the suspension up a bit.
Even with 'just' phase-plugs and now the basket & magnet damped, my 167s are streets ahead of any of the standerd 167s I've heard to date (and it's already a lovely unit).
I now volunteer to be guinea-pig though: once Dave lets me know what they've found to be the best EnABLE combination / technique on the 127s, I'll go straight ahead and apply it to both my 167s and 126s (which are currently without a home -I'll try to do something about that this winter).
I'd get on the cabinets while waiting for Dave to get them in. You wouldn't be able to do much with them until the cabinets were build anyway, short of giving them a thrashing in the garage with an old amp & source to loosen the suspension up a bit.
Even with 'just' phase-plugs and now the basket & magnet damped, my 167s are streets ahead of any of the standerd 167s I've heard to date (and it's already a lovely unit).
I now volunteer to be guinea-pig though: once Dave lets me know what they've found to be the best EnABLE combination / technique on the 127s, I'll go straight ahead and apply it to both my 167s and 126s (which are currently without a home -I'll try to do something about that this winter).
Ok, looking into materials, it seems birch ply is going to be best, but it is in short supply round here, and is pretty sostly too, looks like it will cost me around £150, and then I would have to get the timber merchant to do the long cuts for me = more cost....
Since they will be painted, is there a suitable and more readily available alternative material to use? Thanks, Steve.
Since they will be painted, is there a suitable and more readily available alternative material to use? Thanks, Steve.
Therein lies the problem with the UK. Everything costs a fortune, assuming you can even get hold of it.
If you have to resort to something cheaper; then I'd use 1 1/4in MDF for the sides and the front baffle (laminate 1/2in to 3/4in), and 3/4in chipboard (particleboard) for the rear baffle and the internal panels. That should cut costs down and keep resonances under reasonable control.
If you have to resort to something cheaper; then I'd use 1 1/4in MDF for the sides and the front baffle (laminate 1/2in to 3/4in), and 3/4in chipboard (particleboard) for the rear baffle and the internal panels. That should cut costs down and keep resonances under reasonable control.
Scott, could you talk a bit about mixing construction materials? Why mix MDF and particle? Does it make more sense to just go all MDF (or particle board) in other cases? Does it make sense to mix expensive ply with other things? Would you mix cheap ply with other things? How do you choose which part to make of which wood?
Or maybe the answers are all simply aesthetics.
Or maybe the answers are all simply aesthetics.
Yep, PVA is fine. Web one side with glue, place the other panel, and stack something heavy on top. Best if one is slightly over-sized then trim to size.
Chipboard has more benign resonant behaviour than MDF, which is why I'd use it for the internal panels & the rear baffle, but it's not really strong enough for the large side-panels. 1 1/4in of MDF should have sufficient mass to push panel resonance down below the cabinet BW. Correction to the above BTW -just use 3/4in for the front panel.
Chipboard has more benign resonant behaviour than MDF, which is why I'd use it for the internal panels & the rear baffle, but it's not really strong enough for the large side-panels. 1 1/4in of MDF should have sufficient mass to push panel resonance down below the cabinet BW. Correction to the above BTW -just use 3/4in for the front panel.
It might be worth giving these a call, they're a helpful spot and will cut MDF.
http://www.huwsgray.co.uk/wisscms-en-220.aspx
Good luck
http://www.huwsgray.co.uk/wisscms-en-220.aspx
Good luck
Hi John, it seems B&Q in Bidston do sell birch ply, they had some in when i went to pick up some other stuff the other day, despite not having it on the website- and it is quite cheap! plus they will also cut it for me (just the long cuts mind, want to so some of it myself!)
So, sometime in the week I will have all of the materials to hand to have a go.
Also, are you atill up for a visit sometime next wek? Steve.
So, sometime in the week I will have all of the materials to hand to have a go.
Also, are you atill up for a visit sometime next wek? Steve.
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