Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

RCruz said:
Hi Ray

I built the sreg with a 220uF BG STD on the cap amplifier and left it burning during the night with a 11v bench psu.

last night I got 4.94~3 volts but now I am reading 4.81~83 volts.

Does these fluctuations matter ?

In my first reg (built with two red leds and as a normal rayreg) I get 5.01~2 volts without dropping.

Can I use the superreg on the analog ac or should I stick to the normal reg that gives 5.01v ?

Regards

Ricardo

Hmm, it's a bit low, that voltage. It could be caused by the heating of components; the voltage drop of LEDs and diodes decreases with rising temperature. Take a look at the output voltage just after you power it up, if the regulator has cooled for about 15 mins. Is it back to 5V again?

Ray
 
LMAO!!

With three kids I've developed eyes in the back of my head.

Only trouble is, I still haven't learnt how to engage brain before engaging mouth, especially in those "delicate" moments of "negotiation" with my lovely wife!! :cuss:

Can't be doing too bad, I suppose, getting a C1 and therefore the blessing to do more "tinkering", which is wifespeak for installing an excellent mod!!

Hope your local A&E isn't too busy tonight!!:wchair:

Jim
 
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6h5c said:


Hmm, it's a bit low, that voltage. It could be caused by the heating of components; the voltage drop of LEDs and diodes decreases with rising temperature. Take a look at the output voltage just after you power it up, if the regulator has cooled for about 15 mins. Is it back to 5V again?

Well, every time I switch it on, the value goes to 4.94~3 but after a wile it drops to 4.8 or even less and the oscilations appear.

Nevertheless I changed one of the leds to a green one and the output rose to 5.04~9 (on the bench).

I then installed it in place of U199 and cut U200. Power comes from C813.

The sound gained overall detail so I can hear better bass and more microdetail in the high freq.

Fantastic modification.... I am already thinking about powering the digital +5v on the DAC with another superreg.

Thank you very much for your help.

Regards

Ricardo
 
I've connected all of my external supplies up again and there's only a little noise now. I think my ground lift switch was open and that was causing excessive noise previously. It does beg the question "why do I need to connect ground to safety earth?"

Ah well, at least it's ok for now. I'll get the regs adjusted and new, shielded coils on my discrete filter in due course to reduce the noise. It should be nice and quiet then. I'm also planning to buy some teeny transformers and run some of the supplies internally.

I can again say, after disconnecting and reconnecting them, that additional power supplies make a lovely difference. The music is so much more dynamic with them connected! It sounds more tonally appealing somehow too...

And I've had some soldering practice with my new tip now ;)

Simon
 
I've connected all of my external supplies up again and there's only a little noise now. I think my ground lift switch was open and that was causing excessive noise previously. It does beg the question "why do I need to connect ground to safety earth?
It could simply be that your extra transformers amount to a signficant amount of leakage capacitance between the mains and signal 0v in the player.

Having one bond between signal 0v and mains earth somewhere in the system can help deal with this source of hum injection, and it usually works best at source (because then the noise curents don't travel down the interconnect to the earthed preamp/amp, getting added in series with the wanted signal via the intrconnects impedance).

Other thing to try if you have more than one transformer in the player - try swapping the phasing of the mains connection on one of them. The hum should change - because the two sets of leakage current will either add or subtract. With luck you'll get one out of phase, reducing this noise.


Aint audio fun!
 
Watch out with those new inductors. I had a problem with this new output stage, where one channel was louder than the other. I had connected the marked pins towards the input trace, but the writing on the top was facing "down" with one inductor. I turned this so that all the writing faces the same way and it sounds perfect now!

Lee.
 
Thomo said:
Watch out with those new inductors. I had a problem with this new output stage, where one channel was louder than the other. I had connected the marked pins towards the input trace, but the writing on the top was facing "down" with one inductor. I turned this so that all the writing faces the same way and it sounds perfect now!

Lee.

Ah, thanks for the warning mate. I'll go for symmetry then.

Simon
 
Looking at the data sheets, you shouldn't have any problems substituting the 7805 with the LT1086 CT-5. The data sheets do suggest that a 10uF Tantalum cap is mandatory on the input and output, a higher value cap is required if using a standard electrolytic.

At the end of the day I don't think you'll find any real improvement with the LT1086 CT-5 (Just a personal opinion).
 
delphiplasma said:
Looking at the data sheets, you shouldn't have any problems substituting the 7805 with the LT1086 CT-5. The data sheets do suggest that a 10uF Tantalum cap is mandatory on the input and output, a higher value cap is required if using a standard electrolytic.

At the end of the day I don't think you'll find any real improvement with the LT1086 CT-5 (Just a personal opinion).

Well maybe I'll wait for other opinions as I don't have the willing to take all out the lid again just for the reg. I'll keep it in safe place until I have to upgrade something important.
I guess the OEM 7805 big caps before and after do the same as the requiered ones, so no need to bother with caps, just a direct fit.

Thanks