Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

6h5c said:
paid 140 euros for it :bigeyes:. I've been listening to it tonight, and i'm rediscovering my cd collection again!

Superb Ray, and even better for not using Neutrik Pro-fis, as I believe these are poor sounding phonos :cool:

Malefoda said:
Guys,
where to check for DC offset at the output? and how?

I believe you simply put a multimeter, set to measure DC, from the output to ground. With the cd player turned on.

Simon

ps - anyone want to buy some Neutrik Pro-fi phono plugs?
 
rowemeister said:


The black gates needed are cheap mate. 4X 470uF 16V for the opamp or discrete are roughly £16.
220uf are even cheaper.

Brent
That's not cheap.
that's B..... expensive.
I can buy 15,000uF 63V electrolytics for less than that.
I can buy 470uF 16V electrolytics for about £0.055 that's more than 72times cheaper.
I can buy higher quality electros ranging in price from £0.13 upto £0.28. That's still 14times cheaper.
 
Originally posted by AndrewT
That's not cheap.
that's B..... expensive.
I can buy 15,000uF 63V electrolytics for less than that.
I can buy 470uF 16V electrolytics for about £0.055 that's more than 72times cheaper.
I can buy higher quality electros ranging in price from £0.13 upto £0.28. That's still 14times cheaper.

Me too! But those are not Black Gates...:cannotbe:

Or am I missing the point here :confused:

Ray
 
AndrewT said:

That's not cheap.
that's B..... expensive.
I can buy 15,000uF 63V electrolytics for less than that.
I can buy 470uF 16V electrolytics for about £0.055 that's more than 72times cheaper.
I can buy higher quality electros ranging in price from £0.13 upto £0.28. That's still 14times cheaper.

Black Gates are expensive compared to other caps, but when considered as a valuable upgrade, like a clock or an interconnect, they offer very good value for money.

They are not a tool to get a job done, they are an upgrade over less expensive caps. The sound improvement for £25 is greater than you could get from almost anything else (apart from new op-amps or using hard cone feet, but we've already done that....)

Simon
 
Malfodo, the Amp should have a coupling cap on its input in the circuit, if you are concerned you can also check the dc offset at the speaker terminals in exactly the same way, i bet you get zero !

Simon your right, probably wouldnt do anything apart from may be cause hum or coil heating, the speaker coil being bigger will tolerate it, but headphone coils are smaller and less dissipative, so be carefull with those Senheisers lol. Anyhows, i think the cd63 headphones is coupledanyhows, and if not Malfedo, what the hell is it still doing connected LOL, dump it you dont need it.

The CDP output listed at 2V is the music signal to put it simply, its the peak to peak or rms output of the music fed to the amp, not the dc offset. You would only have problems with dc offset if the amplifier was not coupled correctly at the input or the output. So just check offset at the speaker terminals to put your mind at rest, it will be fine im sure ( do use 911 orr 999 for the emergency services ?? :eek: ) lol

SIMON, how much for the neutriks, u can mail me some details if you want, subs757@msn.com.

Dennis
 
AndrewT said:

That's not cheap.
that's B..... expensive.
I can buy 15,000uF 63V electrolytics for less than that.
I can buy 470uF 16V electrolytics for about £0.055 that's more than 72times cheaper.
I can buy higher quality electros ranging in price from £0.13 upto £0.28. That's still 14times cheaper.

I love the sound quality achieved from fitting BG caps. Ive tried many many caps and 'pound per sound' I believe they are the best.

I fit them in most things nowadays

Brent
 
Re: Re: cd 57 no sound and pops (help)

Thanks Glenn, Thanks Brent.
So, do you think the problem could be the DAC? :-(
In this player there aren't output El caps, there are only jumper.
Someone have a service manual of marantz cd57?

Thanks
R

Glenn2 said:



Hi Riccardo,

There are a few things you can try to isolate the problem.

Do you (or a friend) have a separate DAC, MiniDisc deck, CD recorder or amp with digital input? If you get OK sound from the digital output then the problem is either the DAC chip or analogue stage.

I assume by "Bum!" you are referring to a pop sound when you press play or stop?!
This could indicate the muting circuit has failed.... do you get good sound from the headphone jack?
Can you measure any DC coming out of the RCA jacks? There are blocking capacitors preventing it coming from the op-amps, but the muting transistors are after these.

WARNING - test with some old earbuds that you hate as if there is DC or other rubbish coming out if the h/p socket you could fry your phones.


rowemeister said:

Sounds like one of the 12v rails to the op amp is missing. It could be a voltage imbalance. Other than that I would have thought its the Dac.

Brent
 
AndrewT said:
Hi, yes, that could well be the case and maybe the ONLY way to achieve that particular sound attribute. I cannot argue against that view.

But, that never makes them cheap. They are expensive, end of story.

Then perhaps you need a "cheaper" hobby ... since this one if FAR from cheap!

If you are going to put inferior caps in, why bother upgrading at all? The CD63 already comes with Silmic and CeraFines ... about the only upgrade from there is Black Gates in the analog section anyhow.

If you DO want to do a budget upgrade on the CD63, leave the caps alone, bypass the output caps, remove the muting transistors, damp the chassis, get good feet, request some National LM4562 FREE samples and replace the op-amps, then bypass the HDAM. That is about as cheap as it'll get and be worth the time and effort to modify it.
 
craigtone said:


Then perhaps you need a "cheaper" hobby ... since this one if FAR from cheap!

If you are going to put inferior caps in, why bother upgrading at all? The CD63 already comes with Silmic and CeraFines ... about the only upgrade from there is Black Gates in the analog section anyhow.

If you DO want to do a budget upgrade on the CD63, leave the caps alone, bypass the output caps, remove the muting transistors, damp the chassis, get good feet, request some National LM4562 FREE samples and replace the op-amps, then bypass the HDAM. That is about as cheap as it'll get and be worth the time and effort to modify it.

Well said sir

Brent
 
Well well, I've followed Ray's list, wich uses no BG... I've as Ray's advice Elna RJH around the opamps. The whole PCB upgrade already ask for time & money. But I think I'm going to enjoy fully the next mods, Regs Coax & Clock.
Are the BG the only choice? Did I waste my money exchange the EOM Elna's for Ray's RJH?? (they was Slimic ou Cerafine? Maybe I can use them upgrading my old tuner or even the Arcam amp??).
Whatever my CDP sounds far better with the RJH ;)

About test disc (if you fellows find this is not the place bother with disc I'll stop talking about, please tell me), I've enjoyed Leftism, and even more the fantastic and incredible Orbital LP "In Sides". It sounds new to me! If some of you got it, have an ear on... terrific!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.