You should also use much larger value panasonic TSUP caps when replacing the psu smoothers. The original list has changed slightly ;-)
Personally I would use 10,000uF/25v on short leads to replace C803 and C804 but most importantly I would replace C813 & 814 with 22,000uF/16v panasonic TSUP. Again they will need to be on short leads and glued down but very much worth the effort. Given the relatively low cost of the parts involved, this would be very early on the list of to do's!!
Personally I would use 10,000uF/25v on short leads to replace C803 and C804 but most importantly I would replace C813 & 814 with 22,000uF/16v panasonic TSUP. Again they will need to be on short leads and glued down but very much worth the effort. Given the relatively low cost of the parts involved, this would be very early on the list of to do's!!
Thanks again 
Now getting ahead of myself a bit.... If I go with a discrete output stage mod, I'm guessing that it connects between the DAC and RD21-24 (can remove them), and then straight to the J601 (output connectors). Therefore I wouldn't need to get stuff under the output filter and HDAM and Op Amps sections on the list?
No doubt I'll be back with more questions later.
Now getting ahead of myself a bit.... If I go with a discrete output stage mod, I'm guessing that it connects between the DAC and RD21-24 (can remove them), and then straight to the J601 (output connectors). Therefore I wouldn't need to get stuff under the output filter and HDAM and Op Amps sections on the list?
No doubt I'll be back with more questions later.
Thanks again
Now getting ahead of myself a bit.... If I go with a discrete output stage mod, I'm guessing that it connects between the DAC and RD21-24 (can remove them), and then straight to the J601 (output connectors). Therefore I wouldn't need to get stuff under the output filter and HDAM and Op Amps sections on the list?
No doubt I'll be back with more questions later.
LOL!!!
I've been there!! Having replaced the entire opamp stage with polystyrene caps, decent resistors, bessel filter mod using silvered mica (from Rays list) and LME49720HA opamps, I then went for the DOS!!! DOH!!!
If you plan to go DOS later, I'd personally just go for LME49720 (not HA) with ZLG decoupling caps (C611-614) and bypass the muting transistors and poss the HDAM for now.(HDAM bypass only after the main PSU mods, opamps and a few ZLG (analogue rails) and SEPC (digital rails)) I think that makes sense
ZLG should have lower impedance than ZL. Not sure how the ZL's will sound. I would doubt that the ZL's will be very much cheaper then ZLG's which are much cheaper then the ZA's were.
Looking at Farnell and RS, I can't see a 10,000uF/25v TSUP, they have a 35v option in TSUP (the original C803 and C804 are 35v) or a 25v option in TSHA.
I was checking RS as a friend will be ordering stuff up from there soon so was going ask him to add stuff to his order for me.
So for the PSU I'll need (RS stock code in brackets):
C803/C804 - 10,000uF/25v Panasonic TSHA (339-6938) or 10,000uF/35v Panasonic TSUP (127-470)
C805/C806 - 1,200 uF/16v Panasonic FC (315-0489)
C813/C814 - 22,000uF/16v Panasonic TSUP (127-414)
C815 - 4,700uF/6.3v Panasonic FC (315-0287)
D801-D804/D811-D814/D851/D854/DN01/DN02 MBR1100 Vishay (469-0691)
Q811 - LM340AT-5.0 - NSC (460-904)
I've not sorted out the bits yet to replace Q801/Q802.
Go with the TSUP's if the esr is lower!! Also, I wouldn't bother with the LM340's they wont be any better than 7805's. You'd be better of starting to separate the 5v rails to the various area's! In the pic below, all the boards on the right are small PSU's with 5v regs on them. Every red wire is a 5v feed that was originally on the main single 5v reg
I'm not a big fan of FC's after the regulators (although that's what I'm using in the pic ) . I'd try maybe panasonic FM? for C805/6 and also C815. You could also increase the uF if you wanted??
I'm not a big fan of FC's after the regulators (although that's what I'm using in the pic
) . I'd try maybe panasonic FM? for C805/6 and also C815. You could also increase the uF if you wanted??An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I got my old lady back from Brent today. Now I can gaze fondly at all the red diodes. He's too descrete to tell you but he's gotten seriously into black glue; lots of black glue. The innards of my 67 have liberal dollops of it. I think it must be a local thing up there in the North country; some renactement of an ancient ritual. It absorbes vibration; telluric vibes, and sticks things together so they can never come apart. Anyway I have a new/old laser and some other bits and bobs. She's had a rough time of it lately and isn't quite sounding her best just yet. I was only part way thru a parts burn-in when the laser crapped out. It amazes me how many approaches there are to modding these critters and how they all look totally different; when I can, I will take some pics to show you mine (after the aformentioned cosmetic changes to the outside)
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My friend was ordering tonight, so I went with the 35v TSUPs in the end. Ordered all the bits I listed except the LM340 as I'd have needed to order 5 and was thinking ahead of trying to make some individual regs to dot around.
I also forgot to ask for a bit of guidance on the 47nF Wima ones that are on the list. The orginal parts are 50v, but I can only find 63v MKS . Are these ok?
Apologies for the dumb questions.
I also forgot to ask for a bit of guidance on the 47nF Wima ones that are on the list. The orginal parts are 50v, but I can only find 63v MKS . Are these ok?
Apologies for the dumb questions.
These will be fine!
By the way, you can also use the CD63-KI mods list, it has more up-to-date Farnell numbers.
Ray
By the way, you can also use the CD63-KI mods list, it has more up-to-date Farnell numbers.
Ray
