Yes loads. The 63 can be a fantastic transport.
Firstly remove the fuses and link out internally. Straight away the player improves. Then remove the TX and replace it with a 50Va 2x 12V. You will also have to add a small tx for the display.
This mod makes a massive difference. After that you need a better clock for the servo and decoder + capacitor changes on all relevant voltage rails.
Brent
Firstly remove the fuses and link out internally. Straight away the player improves. Then remove the TX and replace it with a 50Va 2x 12V. You will also have to add a small tx for the display.
This mod makes a massive difference. After that you need a better clock for the servo and decoder + capacitor changes on all relevant voltage rails.
Brent
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Hi Brent,
Changing clock for DAC is easy as it shown in Ray's website, but reclocking the servo and decoder is different story. From what spot we can start doing it? Can you describe the procedure Brent?
Tyo
Hi,
I just bought a CD63 for 20 euro's and did some cheap mods on it. It really sounds a lot better!! Now I'd like to do some more. I don't know much about electronics, but I'm not afraid of the soldering iron ;-) Maybe someone can help me with the following questions:
1. In the mod list I see a few 47n cer. caps replaced by 120u/16V. I do have some blackgates from my Rotel: 100u/16V and 25V. Can I use them instead?
2. For the headamp: are QN91/92 also muting transistors? (got them out already...)
3. I'm a bit confused about all the different types of caps and I a lot of them I can't get from my local supplier. X7R are just multilayered ceramics, aren't they? Can I use them also instead of the silver mica? And what can I use instead of the PS (Styroflex)?
Lot of questions...
It's so great to have this forum!! Even without any knowledge I'd manage to do lots of mods already; even did the clock hack! The bass is a lot better now and so much more detail!
Regards,
Bart
I just bought a CD63 for 20 euro's and did some cheap mods on it. It really sounds a lot better!! Now I'd like to do some more. I don't know much about electronics, but I'm not afraid of the soldering iron ;-) Maybe someone can help me with the following questions:
1. In the mod list I see a few 47n cer. caps replaced by 120u/16V. I do have some blackgates from my Rotel: 100u/16V and 25V. Can I use them instead?
2. For the headamp: are QN91/92 also muting transistors? (got them out already...)
3. I'm a bit confused about all the different types of caps and I a lot of them I can't get from my local supplier. X7R are just multilayered ceramics, aren't they? Can I use them also instead of the silver mica? And what can I use instead of the PS (Styroflex)?
Lot of questions...
It's so great to have this forum!! Even without any knowledge I'd manage to do lots of mods already; even did the clock hack! The bass is a lot better now and so much more detail!
Regards,
Bart
Hi Bart, and welcome to this thread. Nice to see another CD63 singing!
Those Black Gates are perfect for upgrading the player, they are among the best caps ever made. Make sure you put them where they matter most if you have a limited number of them available. QN91/92 are indeed muting transistors, so they can be removed.
Multilayered caps come in various types, and X7R is just one of them. Other types are Z5U, Y5V and NPO for example. NPO is the most stable, but only comes in smaller values. Next best in line is the X7R dielektricum.
The capacitance of the other types is very dependent on the applied DC voltage and frequency. A Z5U cap may lose 80% of it's capacity when 16V is applied! So their capacity is modulated by the supply voltage or frequency of the signal. I figured this is not a good thing for audio
, that's why I mention X7R explicitly.
Do not use them instead of the polystyrenes or silver mica's! In general, ceramics should be avoided alltogether in audio, but they can be a low-budget solution for some decoupling jobs. If you are having trouble sourcing parts, I suggest you use Farnell as a supplier in The Netherlands. Minimum order value is € 50,- but that is easily met if you make a list.
Regards,
Ray
Those Black Gates are perfect for upgrading the player, they are among the best caps ever made. Make sure you put them where they matter most if you have a limited number of them available. QN91/92 are indeed muting transistors, so they can be removed.
Multilayered caps come in various types, and X7R is just one of them. Other types are Z5U, Y5V and NPO for example. NPO is the most stable, but only comes in smaller values. Next best in line is the X7R dielektricum.
The capacitance of the other types is very dependent on the applied DC voltage and frequency. A Z5U cap may lose 80% of it's capacity when 16V is applied! So their capacity is modulated by the supply voltage or frequency of the signal. I figured this is not a good thing for audio
, that's why I mention X7R explicitly.Do not use them instead of the polystyrenes or silver mica's! In general, ceramics should be avoided alltogether in audio, but they can be a low-budget solution for some decoupling jobs. If you are having trouble sourcing parts, I suggest you use Farnell as a supplier in The Netherlands. Minimum order value is € 50,- but that is easily met if you make a list.
Regards,
Ray
Tnks for your help, Ray!
Just got some parts from the store; didn't want to wait another day to get an order at Farnell. They didn't have the X7R, but I got some MKT 63V caps instead. Is that alright? For other bypass caps I use Vishay mkp1837 I already had. I also want to replace the Vishay I used for bypassing the dac at pin 2/27 with the MKT, because the leads are a bit to long. Good idea?
They also didn't have the common filter, but maybe I can use this one from the Rotel: line filter coil trl-356 ?
Regards,
Bart
Just got some parts from the store; didn't want to wait another day to get an order at Farnell. They didn't have the X7R, but I got some MKT 63V caps instead. Is that alright? For other bypass caps I use Vishay mkp1837 I already had. I also want to replace the Vishay I used for bypassing the dac at pin 2/27 with the MKT, because the leads are a bit to long. Good idea?
They also didn't have the common filter, but maybe I can use this one from the Rotel: line filter coil trl-356 ?
Regards,
Bart
Hi Bart,
Are you going to place an MKT at CD05? That will work fine. The best solution however, is a small SMD cap at the underside of the DAC, right between pin 27 and the ground-plane. Scrape some of the laquer off with a scalpel to create a solder-spot. This way you eliminate the inductance of the trace between CD05 and pin 27! The same is valid for pin 15.
I can't say much about the Rotel filter, I guess the most important thing is that it fits the holes in the player's board. Any filter is better than no filter in this case.
Regards,
Ray
Are you going to place an MKT at CD05? That will work fine. The best solution however, is a small SMD cap at the underside of the DAC, right between pin 27 and the ground-plane. Scrape some of the laquer off with a scalpel to create a solder-spot. This way you eliminate the inductance of the trace between CD05 and pin 27! The same is valid for pin 15.
I can't say much about the Rotel filter, I guess the most important thing is that it fits the holes in the player's board. Any filter is better than no filter in this case
.Regards,
Ray
Thanks, but I will not buy from these blood suckers
That's why I still open my tray with my fingers!
Many of you have datasheets, if this one also pm me!
Thx
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/113327-npc-sm5861-dac-2.html#post2533696
Thx
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/113327-npc-sm5861-dac-2.html#post2533696
Found the datasheet for SM5861AP, I guess the pin layout should be similar
http://vasiltech.nm.ru/files/SM5861AP.pdf
http://vasiltech.nm.ru/files/SM5861AP.pdf
I bought a 63SE a few years ago with the intention of modding it, but never got round to it.
Now looking at Ray's list of mods on his site (using the CD63MKII list), I'm finding that various of the Farnell numbers are no longer valid. For most it does suggest an alternative, but for the odd part it doesn't.
The 470u/10V Elna RJH (321-3316) is one that it doesn't offer an alternative for. The 470u/25V Elna RJH (321-3444) it offered a Rubycon YXF as an alternative. The 120u/16V Elna RJH (321-3365) it offers either a Rubycon ZLG or Panasonic FC for.
I've also found a couple of items where the part number is still valid, but no longer manufactured or in stock (430p/1% PS Styroflex 952-0783 and 100n PPS Panasonic 383-5418)
Now being a bit clueless, not sure which alternatives to go for
I've also been trying to match up the parts at CPC as well, who largely seem to be cheaper than Farnell, but have struggled on some parts.
Now looking at Ray's list of mods on his site (using the CD63MKII list), I'm finding that various of the Farnell numbers are no longer valid. For most it does suggest an alternative, but for the odd part it doesn't.
The 470u/10V Elna RJH (321-3316) is one that it doesn't offer an alternative for. The 470u/25V Elna RJH (321-3444) it offered a Rubycon YXF as an alternative. The 120u/16V Elna RJH (321-3365) it offers either a Rubycon ZLG or Panasonic FC for.
I've also found a couple of items where the part number is still valid, but no longer manufactured or in stock (430p/1% PS Styroflex 952-0783 and 100n PPS Panasonic 383-5418)
Now being a bit clueless, not sure which alternatives to go for
I've also been trying to match up the parts at CPC as well, who largely seem to be cheaper than Farnell, but have struggled on some parts.