You should all buy low noise regsDo it properly from the begining
Brent
What can I say! Been there seen it done it got the T-Shirt......I would never contemplate putting 340's 7805's or even 317/337 regs in anything. Even the 317 tracking pre reg is nowhere near as good a decent linear low noise regs. The problem is they are considerably more expensive than std drop in replacements. Is it worth it? er....yes, by a long shot. It really does make a difference!
Ah yes but, you can research Andrew L Weekes and Walt Jung and build something yourself on veroboard for very little!!! As I say, it really is worth it!
The beauty of the commercial regs is the size making them easy to place right on the supply pin. I agree they are expensive but you dont need to buy 10 at a time. I have a mix of Brents, Audiocom and some that I have built. Some were cheapish some were more expensive. Some came from eBay 2nd had. Its all about building up over time just like the rest of the mods contained here!
Ah yes but, you can research Andrew L Weekes and Walt Jung and build something yourself on veroboard for very little!!! As I say, it really is worth it!
The beauty of the commercial regs is the size making them easy to place right on the supply pin. I agree they are expensive but you dont need to buy 10 at a time. I have a mix of Brents, Audiocom and some that I have built. Some were cheapish some were more expensive. Some came from eBay 2nd had. Its all about building up over time just like the rest of the mods contained here!
I've been trying to do that very thing. Also looking at peranders design as well.
You're giving me a guilty conscience! What can I say except I have been putting a little in over 5 years! The main advantage to that, aside from being financially "reasonable", is that as the years have gone by, so has the quality of the mods increased. I have had the interesting advantage of having a stock 63SE at my disposal to compare with Brent's (and Ray's)work on my 67' I suppose the avarage human bean would think the 63 sounded just fine but in fact it sounds awful in comparison. I found myself turning the sound way down and I couldn't listen to it for any length of time. It was dull, flat, mechanical, unresolving, totally emotionless and unmusical. The modded versions (well I have never heard a tricked-out 63' but I assume mine is now on a par with the best...excepting Brent's of course) are rich and organic and extended and make music. I want to say analogue-like, but that's not quite true. I don't believe it will ever equal a top-end TT but the difference in price in enormous. I think you would be talking 5,000 euros of fragile and tweaky, time-consuming TT/cart. to equal "our" old dears and then you would still have to get up and turn the damn record over and go thru the whole ritual endlessly. So mine is beginning to come back on song.
Can someone point a simple ac/dc pcb (Ray start your production
You can try Conrad, they sell a lot of power-supply kits. Otherwise, a piece of stripboard is a quick and easy solution.
Ray
Does anyone know this Nichicon cap?
Nichicon Audio (M)
Rating
100uf 63v
85c
PET
Is this an audio grade cap with low ESR? Did a google found nothing and not even in Nichicon catalog.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Nichicon Audio (M)
Rating
100uf 63v
85c
PET
Is this an audio grade cap with low ESR? Did a google found nothing and not even in Nichicon catalog.
Or maybe they are some custom re-sleeved type? Like the Marantz Elna 'For Hi-Fi'.
Is there some kind of date code stamped on? That way you can determine if they are old and worthless
Ray
I thought those Elna for Hi-Fi are the real deal where Elna used to be the OEM tailor for specific custom rating. Seen alot of those Elna caps label for Kenwood, Pioneer and Yamaha.
Yes, they are quite oversized for their capacitance and they are very light weight. Two contradictive properties
.
Sure, welcome to this thread! You found the right place, that's a start!
I suggest you read a few of the last 10 or 20 pages first, as your question has been answered numerous times already recently. Reading the whole thread is a monstrous job
.Ray
I've been playing around trying to layout peranders regulator design for DIYing, and also at laying out Ray's clock. Is there any mileage in trying to combine the 2 (in place of the power supply in Ray's clock)?
I was also going to ask whether to try building 1 clock and dividing it to drive both DAC and servo, but looking around the forums the other day the answer seems to be to use 2 separate clocks because of grounding issues.
I was also going to ask whether to try building 1 clock and dividing it to drive both DAC and servo, but looking around the forums the other day the answer seems to be to use 2 separate clocks because of grounding issues.