I should have my new player this week sometime, so will get some hi-res pics of my mods up next week when i back and settled in at uni.
Only new mods to be implemented will be a new 5V reg pcb with x2 audiocom superregs and a 7805, a load more caps (especially around the op-amps and decoded), higher quality RCA sockets, and some sorbothane feet on the bottom of the chassis.
Keep the mods coming lads, and get piccies up
Only new mods to be implemented will be a new 5V reg pcb with x2 audiocom superregs and a 7805, a load more caps (especially around the op-amps and decoded), higher quality RCA sockets, and some sorbothane feet on the bottom of the chassis.
Keep the mods coming lads, and get piccies up
CD53 is dead
Hi there !
Hope you're all fine !
So I've settle a little, now I've just started the upgrade... on Ray's list : all the Power Supply part, and the few lines titled "OPAmps" but nothing else ( opamps, some R and 4 caps if I remember well ).
And then plug it back... and then the tears ! Yhe left channel does nothing but silence, some scrrr noises when raise volume on amp, and the same on the headphones : only one channel :'(
I knew it, i should have leave it alone and standard, now I have a dead player =(
I have no knowledge to save it, if even possible...
I'm very frustarted, and worts I have to go to work... shitty day !
Hi there !
Hope you're all fine !
So I've settle a little, now I've just started the upgrade... on Ray's list : all the Power Supply part, and the few lines titled "OPAmps" but nothing else ( opamps, some R and 4 caps if I remember well ).
And then plug it back... and then the tears ! Yhe left channel does nothing but silence, some scrrr noises when raise volume on amp, and the same on the headphones : only one channel :'(
I knew it, i should have leave it alone and standard, now I have a dead player =(
I have no knowledge to save it, if even possible...
I'm very frustarted, and worts I have to go to work... shitty day !
Ray, thanks for the link to the CD67 manual ... but that deal fell through and now I have a virgin CD63.
I plan to mod it in stages and audition between stages as well as follows:
1. Remove muting, headphone circuits
2. Replace Digital e-caps w/Pana FC's and Analog e-caps w/Silmic II's. Also adding 0.33uF before regs and 0.1uF after regs as per datasheet to see if that helps clean up the 78XX-series a bit. Pana ELF15N007A choke in empty spot in PS section
3. Brown Dogs w/OPA132 & OPA627, remove HDAM
4. Replace ALL analog discretes with 1% metal film and WIMA's
5. HagClock w/homemade +/-12V PS
I read this entire thread now (am very tired...) and I have a few questions in relation to theory. A lot of you are modifying components in the digital section (HF Amp, etc.) ... why? I'd think the only thing that matters as far as upgraded components go are PS and DAC Analog out to the RCA's. Anything pre-decoder is bitstream, Decoder to DAC transmission lines ... maybe, caps definitely. Other than that, I don't see the benefit. On the coax, I think it is VERY important to use 50-ohm! Being a PCB Design Engineer by trade, all fiberglass PCB's are designed for 50-ohm transmission lines and terminated as such. Using a 75-ohm cable causes a mismatch and will cause reflections.
I saw someone post twice asking about digital vs. analog caps and yes, you are correct! Use the low ESR (Panasonic FC's) in the digital section and PA and "audio specific" caps in the Analog (Elna Silmic II, BG, etc.). Also, add a 0.1uF WIMA poly across the leads of the large e-caps on the bottom side of the PCB.
Last but not least, I might consider a discrete buffer circuit to get rid of the op-amps, but I'm with the tube guys on this one! No silicon for me! I'll keep people posted with my mods and get some good pic up for the new newbies to this thread since I see more and more older Marantz models for sale ... it's just a matter of time before they find this most excellent thread!
Happy Modding!
I plan to mod it in stages and audition between stages as well as follows:
1. Remove muting, headphone circuits
2. Replace Digital e-caps w/Pana FC's and Analog e-caps w/Silmic II's. Also adding 0.33uF before regs and 0.1uF after regs as per datasheet to see if that helps clean up the 78XX-series a bit. Pana ELF15N007A choke in empty spot in PS section
3. Brown Dogs w/OPA132 & OPA627, remove HDAM
4. Replace ALL analog discretes with 1% metal film and WIMA's
5. HagClock w/homemade +/-12V PS
I read this entire thread now (am very tired...) and I have a few questions in relation to theory. A lot of you are modifying components in the digital section (HF Amp, etc.) ... why? I'd think the only thing that matters as far as upgraded components go are PS and DAC Analog out to the RCA's. Anything pre-decoder is bitstream, Decoder to DAC transmission lines ... maybe, caps definitely. Other than that, I don't see the benefit. On the coax, I think it is VERY important to use 50-ohm! Being a PCB Design Engineer by trade, all fiberglass PCB's are designed for 50-ohm transmission lines and terminated as such. Using a 75-ohm cable causes a mismatch and will cause reflections.
I saw someone post twice asking about digital vs. analog caps and yes, you are correct! Use the low ESR (Panasonic FC's) in the digital section and PA and "audio specific" caps in the Analog (Elna Silmic II, BG, etc.). Also, add a 0.1uF WIMA poly across the leads of the large e-caps on the bottom side of the PCB.
Last but not least, I might consider a discrete buffer circuit to get rid of the op-amps, but I'm with the tube guys on this one! No silicon for me! I'll keep people posted with my mods and get some good pic up for the new newbies to this thread since I see more and more older Marantz models for sale ... it's just a matter of time before they find this most excellent thread!
Happy Modding!
Modding Marantz CD67
Hi Everyone,
I had a CD67 for quite long time and it just sit there since my sons broke the unit by pushing play and stop at the same time. Now it does not play music because the drawer got stuck. Anyone who has experiencing knowledge how to fix this problem. If the drawer got fixed I will mod it. Please help me with step by step since I never touch the CD67. Thank you very much and appreciate your inputs.
Regards,
Tan
Hi Everyone,
I had a CD67 for quite long time and it just sit there since my sons broke the unit by pushing play and stop at the same time. Now it does not play music because the drawer got stuck. Anyone who has experiencing knowledge how to fix this problem. If the drawer got fixed I will mod it. Please help me with step by step since I never touch the CD67. Thank you very much and appreciate your inputs.
Regards,
Tan
Re: Modding Marantz CD67
Hi Tan,
Getting the drawer or transport out is not very difficult. Just start by opening the player and see if you can move the drawer gently by hand to free it. Here's a page that shows how to replace the laserunit, but is has some useful pictures. The drawer takes the transport up and down with it as it slides in and out, maybe something got stuck there. If this doesn't get you anywhere, remove the complete transport from the player as shown on that page. You'll have to remove the front lid of the drawer to take it out. Then you can try to rotate the cog wheel (it sits at the left front under the drawer) by hand to free the drawer. If everything works as it should, you can slide the drawer in and out by hand without any problems. The mechanism works o.k. without any electrical power. Good luck!
Regards,
Ray
singleended40 said:
Hi Tan,
Getting the drawer or transport out is not very difficult. Just start by opening the player and see if you can move the drawer gently by hand to free it. Here's a page that shows how to replace the laserunit, but is has some useful pictures. The drawer takes the transport up and down with it as it slides in and out, maybe something got stuck there. If this doesn't get you anywhere, remove the complete transport from the player as shown on that page. You'll have to remove the front lid of the drawer to take it out. Then you can try to rotate the cog wheel (it sits at the left front under the drawer) by hand to free the drawer. If everything works as it should, you can slide the drawer in and out by hand without any problems. The mechanism works o.k. without any electrical power. Good luck!
Regards,
Ray
craigtone said:
Hi Craig,
A CD63 is a very nice candidate! After the first three steps of your list you should hear big improments.
The HF-signal coming of the transport is NOT digital, it's analog! The eye-pattern contains digital data, but the signal itself is a modulated waveform. It only becomes digital in the form of square waves when it runs though the decoder chip, and has been decoded into the I2S signal (WCLK, BCLK and DATA). Look at the waveforms that are presented at the various testpoints in the manual.
The coax-story has already been covered in this thread. As long as the output and input impedance of the circuits is unknown and are not exactly 50 ohm, there's no point in using 50 or 75 ohm coax. The only reason I use 75 ohm coax is because is has lowest capacity and to benefit from the shielding effect. Also the wavelength of the signal is much larger than the length of coax, so termination is not useful (it's only 16,9MHz!).
The elimination of the opamps is a nice one (I can tell...). Whether with FET's or tubes, the result is amazing.
Link
Regards,
Ray
I opened the cover of my CD63 to start getting dirty and couldn't resist playing a CD with the cover off. What I saw worries me! The CD appears to "wobble" while spinning! I tried several different CD's and they all do it! My eyes aren't playing tricks on me because the centering ring on top of the transport wobbles as well. Obviously, if we are damping to improve noise, this could be a BIG problem for me ... or is this normal?
TIA ...
TIA ...