Marantz cd 53 mods
Dear Sir
i read all your info abaout the marantz cd mods and intended to remove the output caps but I´m afraid of the offset...
I measured 0.025v between the first output cap and earth with the cd playing. can it hurt if I remove the caps ??
I actually use an old meridian 101 pre amp and can not say if it has input caps.....
I would really appreciate your advice.
Best regards
RC
Dear Sir
i read all your info abaout the marantz cd mods and intended to remove the output caps but I´m afraid of the offset...
I measured 0.025v between the first output cap and earth with the cd playing. can it hurt if I remove the caps ??
I actually use an old meridian 101 pre amp and can not say if it has input caps.....
I would really appreciate your advice.
Best regards
RC
Re: Marantz cd 53 mods
Even if the signal was amplified by 50x (not likely) that's 1.25vdc, which isn't going to be enough to ruin anything. It will just reduce the xmax of your speakers and reduce their power handling slightly. In reality it's surely no problem, and your preamp will have caps.
Regards
Simon
RCruz said:
Even if the signal was amplified by 50x (not likely) that's 1.25vdc, which isn't going to be enough to ruin anything. It will just reduce the xmax of your speakers and reduce their power handling slightly. In reality it's surely no problem, and your preamp will have caps.
Regards
Simon
Just an update.. I've not been working on my cd player, just enjoying the new power leads I've treated the system to, and I'm working on a new mains block. I've popped some pics of that, and my new room (diffusion efforts shown) on my work-in-progress site: http://www.eurolinkcourses.co.uk/simon/ (the menu links lead nowhere yet so please don't click on them).
When my new room finally sounds good enough (it's close now) I'll get back to work on my cd player, with more psu 5v and 12v upgrades and a discrete output.
Ta,
Simon
When my new room finally sounds good enough (it's close now) I'll get back to work on my cd player, with more psu 5v and 12v upgrades and a discrete output.
Ta,
Simon
Hmmm ... I was originally planning to remove the DC blocking caps on the output, but I am running the CD into a passive preamp and then into my modified Dynaco ST-70. The problem is between the CDp and the tube amp, there is NO caps! I am thinking of keeping the cap just to be safe. Am looking at the Black Gate N and K-Series. It states the N-Series is the best to-date and best suited for coupling stages. So, being a non-polarized, my idea is to take a sngle 100uF run across the + lead of one to the + lead of the other. Being that it is non-polarized, no need for one in each direction and 2 in parallel is 1/C1+1/C2, I have 110uF equivalent. Either that, or two K-Series which is more $$$. Any suggestions?
BTW, for the power supply, why wouldn't you recommend Low ESR? I'd think it would be better for the switching of the digital chips. I'm not talking Ultra-Low ESR ... just Panasonic FC's. Likewise for bulk capacitance on the decoder and DAC. Then I'll have Silmic's or BG's on the analog to handle bulk capacitance.
BTW, my CD63 is the basic model ... not MKIII, not SE or KI. And it has all Elna caps! Silmic on the audio and PS, generic Elna on the digital and Cerafines on the op-amp ... is this normal? I thought only the SE had those upgrades.
BTW, for the power supply, why wouldn't you recommend Low ESR? I'd think it would be better for the switching of the digital chips. I'm not talking Ultra-Low ESR ... just Panasonic FC's. Likewise for bulk capacitance on the decoder and DAC. Then I'll have Silmic's or BG's on the analog to handle bulk capacitance.
BTW, my CD63 is the basic model ... not MKIII, not SE or KI. And it has all Elna caps! Silmic on the audio and PS, generic Elna on the digital and Cerafines on the op-amp ... is this normal? I thought only the SE had those upgrades.
BTW ...
I forgot to add my listening comments on the stock player. The midrange is decent with good clarity and detail. The treble is over-emphasized and has no detail or clarity. The bass is there, but very muddy and vague. For comparison, I have Micheal Hedges Aerial Boundaries on CD and vinyl and the vinyl stomps all over this thing!
I do have to say I am impressed by the midrange coming out of the stock player ... not bad at all for CD! If I could tighten up the bass and get some clarity on the trebles, I'd be a happy, happy camper!
Time to get modding ...
I forgot to add my listening comments on the stock player. The midrange is decent with good clarity and detail. The treble is over-emphasized and has no detail or clarity. The bass is there, but very muddy and vague. For comparison, I have Micheal Hedges Aerial Boundaries on CD and vinyl and the vinyl stomps all over this thing!
I do have to say I am impressed by the midrange coming out of the stock player ... not bad at all for CD! If I could tighten up the bass and get some clarity on the trebles, I'd be a happy, happy camper!
Time to get modding ...
craigtone said:
Hi Craig,
No caps shouldn't be a problem with a tube-input preamp. The only thing that happens is a small DC component will get to the grid of the first tube, which will shift the bias a tiny little bit. The offset is only tens of millivolts against a 1...2V grid bias. No harm done, and it will get rid of another cap in the signal path. I have a 6SN7 that's directly coupled to my player's input this way.
Ray
Chivvyp said:Hi,
Finally found the cause of the balance problem. A lifted PCB track on CD16 was letting a couple of volts of DC into the signal line.
It's fixed now (but the bottom of the PCB is beginning to look like an explosion in a spaghetti factory) but with all the mods it's really sounding sweet.
I've decided it's got a bit too fragile to handle too much more modding so I think I'll limit the mods to swapping opamps for now and just enjoy listening
Thanks to everyone who helped me with their advice
Pete
Hi,
Looks like I was tempting fate!
I have a small problem still. When I switch on from cold the laser mech "chatters" for 5-6 seconds (sounds a bit like it isn't getting the clock signal), then stops but doesn't read the disc toc. If I then switch off and on the toc is read and everything plays fine.
I have split the 5v feeds (DAC clock (pin 27), DAC analogue and DAC digital) and fitted a superclock. Could the problem be caused by the break in synchronisation between the clock and and the dac clock (but why only from a cold start. Has anyone else come across this type of fault?
Regards
Pete
Chivvyp said:I have a small problem still. When I switch on from cold the laser mech "chatters" for 5-6 seconds (sounds a bit like it isn't getting the clock signal), then stops but doesn't read the disc toc. If I then switch off and on the toc is read and everything plays fine.
I have split the 5v feeds (DAC clock (pin 27), DAC analogue and DAC digital) and fitted a superclock. Could the problem be caused by the break in synchronisation between the clock and and the dac clock (but why only from a cold start. Has anyone else come across this type of fault?
Regards
Pete
Hi Pete,
Is the clock powered from the player, or does it have it's own supply? I could be the clock not powering up fast enough. If you then turn it on for the second time, the caps are still a bit charged and everything runs fine. I had similar problems when I used a too big bypass cap on the adj-pin of a regulator.
Ray.
Help! Remote control does nothing!
I've done the damping, and all on Ray's list but Decoder/Servo & Vref/Drivers.
Sounds great but... no more RC! It works with the OEM one at maybe 3 cm, and with a chinese "all in1" at... 10 cm... is there anything on the PCB that sacrifice de RC? Or just a "normal but unlucky" failure? How to test & fix it?
Heeeeeeelp!!!!
I've done the damping, and all on Ray's list but Decoder/Servo & Vref/Drivers.
Sounds great but... no more RC! It works with the OEM one at maybe 3 cm, and with a chinese "all in1" at... 10 cm...
is there anything on the PCB that sacrifice de RC? Or just a "normal but unlucky" failure? How to test & fix it?Heeeeeeelp!!!!
Re: Help! Remote control does nothing!
Perhaps all too obvious, but you didn't accidentally turn it off via the switch at the back did you?
Regards
Simon
Malefoda said:I've done the damping, and all on Ray's list but Decoder/Servo & Vref/Drivers.
Sounds great but... no more RC! It works with the OEM one at maybe 3 cm, and with a chinese "all in1" at... 10 cm...
Heeeeeeelp!!!!
Perhaps all too obvious, but you didn't accidentally turn it off via the switch at the back did you?
Regards
Simon
Re: Re: Help! Remote control does nothing!
Did you replace RY11 with an inductor? That one supplies +5V to the front PCB. Somehow the inductor in the powerline seems to interfere with the RC5 remote signal sometimes. Try a 10...22u electrolytic in parallel with CY01 on the front PCB, that fixed it for me. If you look at the traces carefully, you can solder it right on, you don't even have to take the PCB out.
Regards,
Ray
I've done the damping, and all on Ray's list but Decoder/Servo & Vref/Drivers.
Sounds great but... no more RC! It works with the OEM one at maybe 3 cm, and with a chinese "all in1" at... 10 cm...
Heeeeeeelp!!!!
Did you replace RY11 with an inductor? That one supplies +5V to the front PCB. Somehow the inductor in the powerline seems to interfere with the RC5 remote signal sometimes. Try a 10...22u electrolytic in parallel with CY01 on the front PCB, that fixed it for me. If you look at the traces carefully, you can solder it right on, you don't even have to take the PCB out.
Regards,
Ray
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Spindle motor problem
Yes, I buy all my service parts here: www.lejos.nl
Here's the complete transport, or you can buy just the optical pickup, which is a bit cheaper.
Another option is to go to a local repair-shop, most of the times they are willing to sell you the unit for a reasonable price.
Regards,
Ray
disco said:Ray, do you know a source for a new laser unit nearby?
I don't ebay anymore since being ripped for the 25th time last year
Regards, Jaap
Yes, I buy all my service parts here: www.lejos.nl
Here's the complete transport, or you can buy just the optical pickup, which is a bit cheaper.
Another option is to go to a local repair-shop, most of the times they are willing to sell you the unit for a reasonable price.
Regards,
Ray
Re: Re: Re: Help! Remote control does nothing!
I replace it with 470uH/2,5R as on your list, is it that?
http://fr.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=517070
They say inductance so I think I'm in... I've left only what I've removed from the PCB, anything I can use to fit on CY01? Maybe I can use the OEM C124? (10u/16V)? I pray for this is the issue!
Thanks!
6h5c said:
I replace it with 470uH/2,5R as on your list, is it that?
http://fr.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=517070
They say inductance so I think I'm in... I've left only what I've removed from the PCB, anything I can use to fit on CY01? Maybe I can use the OEM C124? (10u/16V)? I pray for this is the issue!
Thanks!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Spindle motor problem
Hmmm, this Etoko is MS-only... these boys never learn
Will shop around. Thanks for the input!
Jaap
6h5c said:
Hmmm, this Etoko is MS-only... these boys never learn
Will shop around. Thanks for the input!
Jaap
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
