craigtone said:
Hi Craig,
Does it wobble from left to right, eg. to-and-fro wrt. the center, or up and down, wrt. the tray? A bit of wobbling off-center is normal, because the plastic of the discs is not 100% round. If you look at the metallic layer inside the disc, you'll see that that is perfectly centered and almost stays still. The disc clamp is not perfectly centered all the time, so don't worry about that.
If the disc wobbles up and down, that could indicate the disc table is not properly aligned, or the disc motor's axis is bent. Maybe there's a small piece of rubble on the table that prevents the disc from properly sitting on it.
Regards,
Ray
Spindle motor problem
Evening all,
It's been a long time, but still not
After closing up the Fat One some months ago I tweeked the Thin One inexpensively with new caps (Panasonic ECA series, very nice for audio), some shielding and removal of everything not stricktly necessairy.
Last night Thin started to make more noise while playing and stopped suddenly with a rattle. Today I did a transport transplantation from Fat what cured the problem.
It seems the spindle (or spinner?) motor has worn out. Must be because of the long hours burning in new caps
As I don't recall anyone mentioning this problem earlier I thought it can be usefull for future reference:
***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** *****
After a few minutes the rotating makes more noise followed by a soft scraping sound for some more minutes and finally the player stops playing with a 'ploink' sound.
***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** *****
It has been a long but educating experience tuning her to the level she was until yesterday and I hate to let her go down like this. So, if anyone has as spare motor assembly from a wrecked played (CD12 transport) it would be very welcome. Costs on me, of cause.
Regards, Jaap
Evening all,
It's been a long time, but still not
After closing up the Fat One some months ago I tweeked the Thin One inexpensively with new caps (Panasonic ECA series, very nice for audio), some shielding and removal of everything not stricktly necessairy.
Last night Thin started to make more noise while playing and stopped suddenly with a rattle. Today I did a transport transplantation from Fat what cured the problem.
It seems the spindle (or spinner?) motor has worn out. Must be because of the long hours burning in new caps
As I don't recall anyone mentioning this problem earlier I thought it can be usefull for future reference:***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** *****
After a few minutes the rotating makes more noise followed by a soft scraping sound for some more minutes and finally the player stops playing with a 'ploink' sound.
***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** *****
It has been a long but educating experience tuning her to the level she was until yesterday and I hate to let her go down like this. So, if anyone has as spare motor assembly from a wrecked played (CD12 transport) it would be very welcome. Costs on me, of cause.
Regards, Jaap
OK, really cheap and dirty fix: swap the spindle motor for the tray loading motor. It is the SAME type of motor in the CD63...
The reason this works is quite simple - the spindle motor only runs on 1-2v, and over time a pitted/worn commutator can cause major problems that the speed servo can't overcome. But the tray loading motor gets a full 5v or so, and runs free, so the worn spindle motor will run just fine here And in the tray motor you have a free, hardly used 'spare' for the spindle!
Actually, it's worth just desoldering the wires to to the spindle motor and just giving it 5v or so to run really fast and polish the crud off its brushes etc. Sometimes this is all the fix you need.
The reason this works is quite simple - the spindle motor only runs on 1-2v, and over time a pitted/worn commutator can cause major problems that the speed servo can't overcome. But the tray loading motor gets a full 5v or so, and runs free, so the worn spindle motor will run just fine here
And in the tray motor you have a free, hardly used 'spare' for the spindle!Actually, it's worth just desoldering the wires to to the spindle motor and just giving it 5v or so to run really fast and polish the crud off its brushes etc. Sometimes this is all the fix you need.
Re: Spindle motor problem
Hi Jaap,
I've got a few dead units here. I'd be happy to send you the spindlemotor, or the complete unit if you like, so you can transplant the laser pick-up.
That's a typical dutch fix...
Be careful when you swap the disc-table.
Regards,
Ray
disco said:
Hi Jaap,
I've got a few dead units here. I'd be happy to send you the spindlemotor, or the complete unit if you like, so you can transplant the laser pick-up.
martin clark said:
That's a typical dutch fix...
Be careful when you swap the disc-table.
Regards,
Ray
Mornin' fellows!
I was also worried when I first see the non centered upper lock of the CD... but seems normal.
I need some advices about how to dampen the bottom chassis plate, as it is not flat and maybe close to PCB in some area and has hole that may help to cool the stuff.
So, any cooling issues or damping advice?
Thanks!
I was also worried when I first see the non centered upper lock of the CD... but seems normal.
I need some advices about how to dampen the bottom chassis plate, as it is not flat and maybe close to PCB in some area and has hole that may help to cool the stuff.
So, any cooling issues or damping advice?
Thanks!
I'm back with a question: do C605/606/607/608 replacement caps have a polarity? They show a blue ring on one side, but the ones they replace don't.
And if I type the brand " LCR PS " I reach 2 famous french politic groups!
(Franell 3040021 & 9520660 wich pdfs show no polarity)
Please confirm me that the blue ring is just to be lovely not a problem!
And if I type the brand " LCR PS " I reach 2 famous french politic groups!
(Franell 3040021 & 9520660 wich pdfs show no polarity)
Please confirm me that the blue ring is just to be lovely not a problem!
Re: Spindle motor problem
Good afternoon fellas,
Thanks for the helpful attitude and great ideas, what continues to be the moving force behind our little tread.
Here's an update in pictures how to change motors. There's not much to it but a hexagon screwdriver which I didn't have but a small flathead will do too
Regards, Jaap
http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06380/motmod1.jpg
http://xs206.xs.to/xs206/06380/motmod2.jpg
http://xs206.xs.to/xs206/06380/motmod3.jpg
http://xs206.xs.to/xs206/06380/motmod4.jpg
http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06380/motmod5.jpg
http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06380/motmod6.jpg
http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06380/motmod7.jpg
http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06380/motmod8.jpg
Good afternoon fellas,
Thanks for the helpful attitude and great ideas, what continues to be the moving force behind our little tread.
Here's an update in pictures how to change motors. There's not much to it but a hexagon screwdriver which I didn't have
but a small flathead will do too An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Regards, Jaap
http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06380/motmod1.jpg
http://xs206.xs.to/xs206/06380/motmod2.jpg
http://xs206.xs.to/xs206/06380/motmod3.jpg
http://xs206.xs.to/xs206/06380/motmod4.jpg
http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06380/motmod5.jpg
http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06380/motmod6.jpg
http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06380/motmod7.jpg
http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06380/motmod8.jpg
Malefoda said:
Hi,
C605 and C606 are part of the high frequency filter (with L601 and L602). They are to be closely matched to 1.000pF.
I'd take silvered mica because these are very precise non polar capacitors.
I could not locate C607 and C608. Near which IC are they?
Regards, Jaap
<scheme opamps>
Around the opamps, look top of the second dual, under R612; Mine are already in my hands, according to Ray's list. And yes I just wanna be sure it is non polar.
Here are the beasts C606:
And bravo for such brilliant pics!
Here are the beasts C606:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And bravo for such brilliant pics!
Malefoda said:
Hi,
These caps are non-polar, just like the ones they replace, BUT the ring indicates the pin that is connected to the outside of the capacitor's foil. If you want to be very exact, you can connect this side of the capacitor towards ground or the output side of the opamp. That way the shielding effect of the outer foil is maximum. Normally this is only useful in circuits with very small signals, like RIAA preamps or similar.
Your player singing like a bird again, Jaap?
Ray
6h5c said:
Like the old
Milanese Nightingale Ray, but unfortunately for only 5 to 10 minutes after which the troubled transport hangs again. Because a good transport plays effortless, the problem must be within the transport itself. It might be a rotten capacitor underneath the PCB what would explain for the time it takes to manifest. I can see three SMDs on the brown ribbon. Anybody had problems with them before?
Another cause might be of opto/mechanical nature, but why would it manifest after a period of time? The problem arises with or without the hood on so heat can be excluded.
Regards, Jaap
craigtone said:
Hi Craig,
To conserve the integrety of the square wave signal coming from the RF amp pcb I used coax to connect it to R501 of the HF amp (round Q501/Q502) and upgraded C504 from 220uF to a beafy 2.700uF to stabilise the voltage. This had very good results as a mod alone on a virgin player, especially for the low notes.
For the original power supply I had good results exchanging the stock diodes (D801-D804) with small Schottkies and upgrading C803/C804 with 1.000uF/50V Panasonic ECA series, which I preferred above idem Rubycon ZLHs for flattening the DC. After the 12V regs just 220uF/16V Silmic seemed best, don't use ultra low ESR caps in this position. Bypassing brought no progress to my ears.
Try matching caps and resistors around the opamps to 0%. There's no harm in carbon resistors, soundwise.
Regards, Jaap
Re: Re: Spindle motor problem
It's not the RF amp board Ray, I just switched it. So, frome earlier notes:
The laser unit has two coils for the lens, controlled by the servo:.
1) Focus coil - This moves the lens up and down to focus the laser beam on the disc
2) Radial coil - This moves the lens left and right so the laser beam can keep track of the data (like a needle does in a groove on a record player)
The CDM12.1 laserdiode is buffered by a 100n cap on the optical unit itself, see p13 of the Service Manual. The unit gets it's power directly out of the TDA1302 (pin 16).
This laser only has a laser voltage adjust, be carefull to adjust as its life can drastically be reduced. To increase the laser current, get a scope and measure the amplitude of the HF signal on testpoint 9 or 11, and adjust it with the small trimmer on the back of the optical unit.
Any clever ideas, besides buying a new unit?
Regards, Jaap
6h5c said:
It's not the RF amp board Ray, I just switched it. So, frome earlier notes:
The laser unit has two coils for the lens, controlled by the servo:.
1) Focus coil - This moves the lens up and down to focus the laser beam on the disc
2) Radial coil - This moves the lens left and right so the laser beam can keep track of the data (like a needle does in a groove on a record player)
The CDM12.1 laserdiode is buffered by a 100n cap on the optical unit itself, see p13 of the Service Manual. The unit gets it's power directly out of the TDA1302 (pin 16).
This laser only has a laser voltage adjust, be carefull to adjust as its life can drastically be reduced. To increase the laser current, get a scope and measure the amplitude of the HF signal on testpoint 9 or 11, and adjust it with the small trimmer on the back of the optical unit.
Any clever ideas, besides buying a new unit?
Regards, Jaap