Haha
I have same caps.I have been thinking about modificate the power supply, so is there any possibilities to use model 1002 power supply in model 5502?
All modification instructions is for model 1002, so it's quite easier to modify that.
I just bought bright blue leds to test this mod. It should improve the laser's read quality or something about that. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Here's topic about it.
Last edited:
There is my firts PSX mod. This is 5502 and this is same like 1002 but 1002 have 7pin conector (5502 have 5pin
before
and DAC mod
before
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
after An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and DAC mod
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hello people. I am new to this forum and i have got a ps1 model 1002 and a 9002. I want to mod it and make the psu external. I read on the dogbreath site that the black and red wires can be joined together and pin 7 can be left out all together. I am asking this because i have 3 pin xlr sockets and plugs and would like to use these to connect the power from the off board psu to the main board. Is this correct or will i fry the board which i dont want to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I have also noticed that the 9002 has only 5 wires and the 1002 has 7? is either psu better than the other or not. Thanks in advance.
I have also noticed that the 9002 has only 5 wires and the 1002 has 7? is either psu better than the other or not. Thanks in advance.Same64
Farrnel has a good stuff. I used this VISHAY ROEDERSTEIN|MKP1839522404|CAPACITOR AXIAL, MKP, 2.2UF, 400V | Farnell Australia
Farrnel has a good stuff. I used this VISHAY ROEDERSTEIN|MKP1839522404|CAPACITOR AXIAL, MKP, 2.2UF, 400V | Farnell Australia
Could I make a Power Supply for my PlayStation using two wall warts?
I have a PS2 wall wart (8.5 volts, 5.56 amps) and a PSOne Wall wart (7.5 volts 3.0 amps, would these work ?
I think that I'd need to run the 8.5v wall wart through a 7.6v regulator, and run the 7.5v wall wart through a 3.6v regulator. Then all that's left is to connect their outputs to the correct pins on the motherboard, is this correct?
I have a PS2 wall wart (8.5 volts, 5.56 amps) and a PSOne Wall wart (7.5 volts 3.0 amps, would these work ?
I think that I'd need to run the 8.5v wall wart through a 7.6v regulator, and run the 7.5v wall wart through a 3.6v regulator. Then all that's left is to connect their outputs to the correct pins on the motherboard, is this correct?
Hi All, I just found this thread...wow, lots of data. I am an artist and have been building my system up for a number of years making my audio stuff look like art (some would argue that). I had an idea to build a CD player and a friend told me about this thread and the PS in general.
My idea (please tell me if I am way off base here) is to build a black marble cube 7" by 7" by 3" high with just the spindle sticking out the top. Nothing else visable on the cube. I don't know much about CD players and thought (without knowledge) that I could use my tube DAC instead of the PS DAC, and also just ambilical chord to another box to house all the controller stuff if it did not fit in the cube.
The other question I have is: can I hook up an optical out for my optical in on my DAC??? It has that, coaxil, and RCA ins.
I want the cube to be as small as possible and minimalistic looking as possible.
So, do I have my head up my_________, or does this sound possible.
Thanks in advance. Cheers.
My idea (please tell me if I am way off base here) is to build a black marble cube 7" by 7" by 3" high with just the spindle sticking out the top. Nothing else visable on the cube. I don't know much about CD players and thought (without knowledge) that I could use my tube DAC instead of the PS DAC, and also just ambilical chord to another box to house all the controller stuff if it did not fit in the cube.
The other question I have is: can I hook up an optical out for my optical in on my DAC??? It has that, coaxil, and RCA ins.
I want the cube to be as small as possible and minimalistic looking as possible.
So, do I have my head up my_________, or does this sound possible.
Thanks in advance. Cheers.
Last edited:
Hi djn
Nice to hear about your art,would be nice to see some pictures.Sounds like a great idea to use marble block.
If you are thinking to use another dac and also would like to have optical in,the playstation is not a good platform to start with,because the flimsy transport itself is nothing special(so I'm told).
I think the "shigaclone" thread would be interesting for you,it's all about guality transport.Don't know if the boomboxes are easily available anymore,but worth a look.
P.S the shaft in ps1 is very short and spindle close to the transport,so just having the spindle sticking out wouldn't work without modifications anyway...
Nice to hear about your art,would be nice to see some pictures.Sounds like a great idea to use marble block.
If you are thinking to use another dac and also would like to have optical in,the playstation is not a good platform to start with,because the flimsy transport itself is nothing special(so I'm told).
I think the "shigaclone" thread would be interesting for you,it's all about guality transport.Don't know if the boomboxes are easily available anymore,but worth a look.
P.S the shaft in ps1 is very short and spindle close to the transport,so just having the spindle sticking out wouldn't work without modifications anyway...
Last edited:
Hey Occelot,
people do away with the internal power supply as they are cost effective switch mode supplies, which tend to be noisy (as are most cost compromised supplies of any type).
As long as the wall warts are linear and 'cleanish' they should work- I have broken open wall warts for the transformers inside, and used these for other low power projects, providing better regulation and capacity to them.
I suspect that the psu supplied will be switch mode, as the ps1 needs 1 amp for the 7.6v rail and a little current for the 3.6v .
Anyway, a regulator needs at least 2.5v headroom to be able to operate correctly, so unfortunately this would not work well.
people do away with the internal power supply as they are cost effective switch mode supplies, which tend to be noisy (as are most cost compromised supplies of any type).
As long as the wall warts are linear and 'cleanish' they should work- I have broken open wall warts for the transformers inside, and used these for other low power projects, providing better regulation and capacity to them.
I suspect that the psu supplied will be switch mode, as the ps1 needs 1 amp for the 7.6v rail and a little current for the 3.6v .
Anyway, a regulator needs at least 2.5v headroom to be able to operate correctly, so unfortunately this would not work well.
Thanks for the reply!
The reason I want to use two wall warts is because I wouldn't know how to build a new PSU from scratch, would love to build one like Mick proposed but it's beyond me. You mentioned that a regulator needs 2.5v headroom, so this means that I can use a regulator to take 7.5v down to 3.6v but I won't be able to take 8.5v down to 7.6v, correct? But I could use 12v wall wart and regulate it to 7.6v right?
Could you explain to me what a linear PSU is? Would a wall wart that has no on switch and produces DC power be a linear supply?
Hi,
a linear power supply uses a large transformer to take the 60hz, 110v down to the voltage you need. Because this is at such a low frequency the transformer needs to be larger for a given current draw.
What a switch mode (or sometimes called smps) does is rectify (turn to dc) the incoming power. This is them modulated at a very high frequency usually hundreds of kilohertz, and then this goes through a much smaller transformer.
Because this happens much quicker, the transformer (the heavy expensive bit) can be smaller. Also the power supply can react very quickly to current needs.
Unfortunately, for our needs, they can be a little noisy. I am sure that the wall warts you have will be smps- all the ones I have seen in my experience that can deliver what yours can have been smps.
I am sure if you read up on Micks site, and ask people for help, that a power supply is not beyond you.
As always, mains voltage can be very dangerous, so read as much material as you deem needed to give you enough knowledge so you are aware of how to handle it. And you can buy an RCD to plug anything that you are working on into.
Something like this (but obviously for us voltages) Safety Breaker : RCD Safety Breaker : Maplin
It is no excuse for dangerous practice though!
Good luck.
a linear power supply uses a large transformer to take the 60hz, 110v down to the voltage you need. Because this is at such a low frequency the transformer needs to be larger for a given current draw.
What a switch mode (or sometimes called smps) does is rectify (turn to dc) the incoming power. This is them modulated at a very high frequency usually hundreds of kilohertz, and then this goes through a much smaller transformer.
Because this happens much quicker, the transformer (the heavy expensive bit) can be smaller. Also the power supply can react very quickly to current needs.
Unfortunately, for our needs, they can be a little noisy. I am sure that the wall warts you have will be smps- all the ones I have seen in my experience that can deliver what yours can have been smps.
I am sure if you read up on Micks site, and ask people for help, that a power supply is not beyond you.
As always, mains voltage can be very dangerous, so read as much material as you deem needed to give you enough knowledge so you are aware of how to handle it. And you can buy an RCD to plug anything that you are working on into.
Something like this (but obviously for us voltages) Safety Breaker : RCD Safety Breaker : Maplin
It is no excuse for dangerous practice though!
Good luck.
HI,
First I want to share my happyness to mod ps1, follow the Micks site and Rhing post I by pass the output stage and changed hifituning fuse, FURUTECH power cord, ps sounds great on my esl57. I found ps1 sensible about wire, so I change all inner wire by 22awg 7n single core, psu unmod but connect first 4pins to masterboard, more details heard, when I change the laser power cable, by unkown reason the laser doesnot move up and down when ps power on. laser beam visible througn phone camera, but not read disc anymore. I change everything back it doesnot work as well. I desoldering safty switch and connected by short silver wire.
My psu seems works well 1pin 8.5v, 2pin 0v, 3pin 4.2v,4pin 0v, but no voltage and no drawn on laser power pin. .........
So, I bought a scph-1000 japanese model at 110v 50/60hz, my question is can I just swap scph1000 psu by scph1002 psu to solve 220v voltage problem?
Best regards,
Sam
First I want to share my happyness to mod ps1, follow the Micks site and Rhing post I by pass the output stage and changed hifituning fuse, FURUTECH power cord, ps sounds great on my esl57. I found ps1 sensible about wire, so I change all inner wire by 22awg 7n single core, psu unmod but connect first 4pins to masterboard, more details heard, when I change the laser power cable, by unkown reason the laser doesnot move up and down when ps power on. laser beam visible througn phone camera, but not read disc anymore. I change everything back it doesnot work as well. I desoldering safty switch and connected by short silver wire.
My psu seems works well 1pin 8.5v, 2pin 0v, 3pin 4.2v,4pin 0v, but no voltage and no drawn on laser power pin. .........
So, I bought a scph-1000 japanese model at 110v 50/60hz, my question is can I just swap scph1000 psu by scph1002 psu to solve 220v voltage problem?
Best regards,
Sam