Try putting in a CD that you are having trouble with, then turn the player upside down and see if it will play. Sounds crazy, but this is the "fix" used by gamers when they would have trouble getting these machines to read their games. Apparently, what happens is the lower bearing in the disc drive motor wears fairly rapidly. Over time, as the bearing wears, the CD will get closer and closer to the laser, until it reaches a point where the laser can't focus properly and can no longer read the disc. Turning the Playstation upside down "removes" the end play from the motor bearing, putting the CD back at the proper distance from the laser.
My 1002 has the same issues if it is switched off. I have to put a shop bought cd in for the first play. Once it has focused on that disc and played the first few seconds it will play anything.
If I put a cdr in first it will refuse to focus until it is switched off and started again with a genuine disc. I just leave it switched on and I have no problems.
I have a laser here from a later version to go in when it finally gives up the ghost.
John
If I put a cdr in first it will refuse to focus until it is switched off and started again with a genuine disc. I just leave it switched on and I have no problems.
I have a laser here from a later version to go in when it finally gives up the ghost.
John
You need this tool to adjust the high of the CD driver that must be pulled out.
The data at burned CD lay different. Similarly as here one shows. So burned Cd fails first.
If you have a manual search for the Focus current and mesure it. Than adjust the high of the driver to the smallest value near 0V.
The data at burned CD lay different. Similarly as here one shows. So burned Cd fails first.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If you have a manual search for the Focus current and mesure it. Than adjust the high of the driver to the smallest value near 0V.
I have found a link specifically for Playstation 1 laser repair.This could be what you need. Playstation Laser Repair. Playstation repair Sony CDROM, Mod chip. Australia, Australian
Hello everyone,
I could really use some help/advise with a Playstation 1 (SCPH-1001) I've been modifying;
So far, I have wired in a remote and modified the output stage, as according to the guides on dogbreath.de. Instead though, I have decided to use 3.uF polypropylene caps (250v) as opposed to the 50v polyester ones used there. And, as the caps are still burning in, I must say, I am very impressed with the bolstered space and width of the soundstage.
However, dogbreath.de only goes as far as modifications of the output stage. The problem is that the in-built RCAs on my particular station are rather old and dirty, so I would love to add some good-old gold ones.
I am very much an electronics cowboy, drawing on my largely-forgotten Electronics A-Level, and have been using dogbreath.de religiously. However, when I apply my own logic to the problem of adding new RCAs to the already modified output stage, all I get is terrible hum and no audio whatsoever - I have been taking the signal from the caps to the + point of the old RCA, and then running silver wire from there to the new, gold RCAs, whilst running a ground from the new RCA to the +/- (because it fails either way!) of the old RCA connects.
So, I hopethat makes sense and that I haven't insulted anyone with my dense electronic reasoning! Please help! I know a dab of contact cleaner would be of use, but I feel that I'm missing out on some space and clarity without a good pair of RCAs on board.
Also, would I benefit from including the laser unit from the 9001 model - some people's posts seem to suggest an improvement there.
Thanks.
I could really use some help/advise with a Playstation 1 (SCPH-1001) I've been modifying;
So far, I have wired in a remote and modified the output stage, as according to the guides on dogbreath.de. Instead though, I have decided to use 3.uF polypropylene caps (250v) as opposed to the 50v polyester ones used there. And, as the caps are still burning in, I must say, I am very impressed with the bolstered space and width of the soundstage.
However, dogbreath.de only goes as far as modifications of the output stage. The problem is that the in-built RCAs on my particular station are rather old and dirty, so I would love to add some good-old gold ones.
I am very much an electronics cowboy, drawing on my largely-forgotten Electronics A-Level, and have been using dogbreath.de religiously. However, when I apply my own logic to the problem of adding new RCAs to the already modified output stage, all I get is terrible hum and no audio whatsoever - I have been taking the signal from the caps to the + point of the old RCA, and then running silver wire from there to the new, gold RCAs, whilst running a ground from the new RCA to the +/- (because it fails either way!) of the old RCA connects.
So, I hopethat makes sense and that I haven't insulted anyone with my dense electronic reasoning! Please help! I know a dab of contact cleaner would be of use, but I feel that I'm missing out on some space and clarity without a good pair of RCAs on board.
Also, would I benefit from including the laser unit from the 9001 model - some people's posts seem to suggest an improvement there.
Thanks.
Another Issue
Hello again,
Following my first post, my completed PS1 (without gold RCAs) seems to have burnt-out. I literally turned it on, the LED lit up, the disc span, I pressed START on the remote, and then nothing happened. Plugging a controller in also has no effect. Damn.
This is not the first time this has happened. My first PS1 was modified using only bipolar caps, so I'm ruling out the polypropylene caps, that I have been using on the this one, being the cause of this PS1's demise.
Each time, I checked the wiring and everything passes. I have even swapped the current controller circuit block with one that I know to be working, and even this does not work. It must be the main board(?). Both units lasted just over a week, following modifications.
Is anyone else having this problem, or am I a bad omen!? Am I doing something really wrong? - I've been following the instructions on dogbreath.de, almost to the letter.
All advise, prayers and slander welcome!
Hello again,
Following my first post, my completed PS1 (without gold RCAs) seems to have burnt-out. I literally turned it on, the LED lit up, the disc span, I pressed START on the remote, and then nothing happened. Plugging a controller in also has no effect. Damn.
This is not the first time this has happened. My first PS1 was modified using only bipolar caps, so I'm ruling out the polypropylene caps, that I have been using on the this one, being the cause of this PS1's demise.
Each time, I checked the wiring and everything passes. I have even swapped the current controller circuit block with one that I know to be working, and even this does not work. It must be the main board(?). Both units lasted just over a week, following modifications.
Is anyone else having this problem, or am I a bad omen!? Am I doing something really wrong? - I've been following the instructions on dogbreath.de, almost to the letter.
All advise, prayers and slander welcome!
1000 vs 7002
Hi everyone. I 've managed to get the 1000 (with s-video / rca) and 7002 from the local shop with little money. They might have been gathering dust for quite a long time and I have no hope if both of them could survive. Anyway, after cleaning up and feeding them with some AC, both become alive. I think they are quite tough machine after all.
The 1000 refuses to read disc when the joystick is attached to the unit but works fine if the stick is connected to the console later on. This problem has gone now, however.
The 7002 is good however, there is considerable buzz noise from the big trafo on the supply board. It seems to also contaminate the supply as I can hear them in my headphone so this problem has to be fixed. Maybe with a linear powersupply.
Both of them are connected through the std multi AV cable. I did a quick listening and they sound good. I also did a quick comparision between 1000 and 7002 and spot no major difference. I went back to my usb dac (based on pcm2707) and quick listening shows more details in the music to the ps's. I will do a critical listening and will report once again.
Have a quick look inside and the 1000 has an ak4310vm while 7002 has an ak4309bvm. A quick glance at 7002 and I can not see the big 6 caps. Must be a difference circuit. So the question come up in my mind. Should these chips, provided that they have the same supply/ output stage sound the same?:-
ak4309vm
ak4309avm
ak4309bvm
ak4310vm
If their potential are the same, after I do a critical listening to them, I will then mod one of them. I have a feeling that they will stay with me for quite a long long time.
Hi everyone. I 've managed to get the 1000 (with s-video / rca) and 7002 from the local shop with little money. They might have been gathering dust for quite a long time and I have no hope if both of them could survive. Anyway, after cleaning up and feeding them with some AC, both become alive. I think they are quite tough machine after all.
The 1000 refuses to read disc when the joystick is attached to the unit but works fine if the stick is connected to the console later on. This problem has gone now, however.
The 7002 is good however, there is considerable buzz noise from the big trafo on the supply board. It seems to also contaminate the supply as I can hear them in my headphone so this problem has to be fixed. Maybe with a linear powersupply.
Both of them are connected through the std multi AV cable. I did a quick listening and they sound good. I also did a quick comparision between 1000 and 7002 and spot no major difference. I went back to my usb dac (based on pcm2707) and quick listening shows more details in the music to the ps's. I will do a critical listening and will report once again.
Have a quick look inside and the 1000 has an ak4310vm while 7002 has an ak4309bvm. A quick glance at 7002 and I can not see the big 6 caps. Must be a difference circuit. So the question come up in my mind. Should these chips, provided that they have the same supply/ output stage sound the same?:-
ak4309vm
ak4309avm
ak4309bvm
ak4310vm
If their potential are the same, after I do a critical listening to them, I will then mod one of them. I have a feeling that they will stay with me for quite a long long time.
hi fellow psx friends
hope somebody can help me with my sound problem:
i´ve just bought me a SCPH 1002 but unfortunatly the sound when playing audio cd´s is totally distorted.
apart from this games and such load without a problem, sound (like effects) from games is ok too. only when playing songs the sound is broken.
there hasnt been made any mods to the psx, it has never been opened before.
is this a common problem?
here´s a small vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBBj6INvziA
hope somebody can help me with my sound problem:
i´ve just bought me a SCPH 1002 but unfortunatly the sound when playing audio cd´s is totally distorted.
apart from this games and such load without a problem, sound (like effects) from games is ok too. only when playing songs the sound is broken.
there hasnt been made any mods to the psx, it has never been opened before.
is this a common problem?
here´s a small vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBBj6INvziA
Last edited:
Hello i don't know if anyone can help I have a SCPH 1002 with a new KSm 440acm laser i have laser intensity 24.4mv and a bias of 1.69v and gain of 1.90v as these are the best I have found the standard ones where no good but still it jumps when playing videos also these is a pot next to the power connector of the cd whats this for and can it help
Hi All
I'm new to this forum and have recently bought a PS1 and am impressed with the sound. At present I'm using the AV output but want to upgrade using the info on Mick F's site.
So my question is what value Wattage should the 22k resistor be? Does it matter? They seem to go from .25W to 3W.
Sorry if this info is on the thread somewhere, I just haven't come across it yet and Mick F doesn't seem to mention it.
I'm new to this forum and have recently bought a PS1 and am impressed with the sound. At present I'm using the AV output but want to upgrade using the info on Mick F's site.
So my question is what value Wattage should the 22k resistor be? Does it matter? They seem to go from .25W to 3W.
Sorry if this info is on the thread somewhere, I just haven't come across it yet and Mick F doesn't seem to mention it.
hi, sorry for may bad english...
ocelot,
Someone in earlier said that DAC is not the only thing that make PS have a nice sound, its sounds good because ps has a different methode to read data than any other cd player, but i can't remember the detail..
the AKM itself is a standard DAC, you can use other good dac like tda1541 or 1543 for standalone DAC instead of AKM 4309.
poelser,
have you try another laser? cos i have one laser that make sound like clipping, specialy in hi freq.
xavier,
i dont know what that pot used for.. but if you still have skipping problem after adjusting bias, maybe you can increase the voltage in laser's pot, but dont increase it to much, maybe around 25mv or 26mv. coz i have new bam laser that skipping sometime in 11.4mv, and that problem gone after i increase it to 12mv
dipped,
0.5w will be fine..
ocelot,
Someone in earlier said that DAC is not the only thing that make PS have a nice sound, its sounds good because ps has a different methode to read data than any other cd player, but i can't remember the detail..
the AKM itself is a standard DAC, you can use other good dac like tda1541 or 1543 for standalone DAC instead of AKM 4309.
poelser,
have you try another laser? cos i have one laser that make sound like clipping, specialy in hi freq.
xavier,
i dont know what that pot used for.. but if you still have skipping problem after adjusting bias, maybe you can increase the voltage in laser's pot, but dont increase it to much, maybe around 25mv or 26mv. coz i have new bam laser that skipping sometime in 11.4mv, and that problem gone after i increase it to 12mv
dipped,
0.5w will be fine..
I'm using a PS3 nowadays instead of a Shanling CD s100se.
The Shanling is ever so slightly brighter in sound but not enough to keep hold of. Benefit of course is that all my DVD's and Blu Rays play throught the PS3 which of course the Shanling can't do.
Downside to my PS3 is that I updated the software to the latest version, this means I've lost the "Install Other OS" option though and now I can't put linux on to use it as a pc/streamer (for FLAC etc).
It looks like "Geohot" hacked this feature but he's keeping quiet about how to do it.
I understand SONY disabled the "Other OS" option as it can be used to override disk copy protection, something I'd never have even been aware of had they not blocked it in the first place (as millions are now aware of his there is such a thing as bad publicity it seems).
The laser pickup etc in the Shanling is a SANYO and the rest is PHILIPS and BURR BROWN I think.
I replaced the laser pickup in the Shanling but it didn't cure a fault so I'll have another look, not sure why I typed this.
The Shanling is ever so slightly brighter in sound but not enough to keep hold of. Benefit of course is that all my DVD's and Blu Rays play throught the PS3 which of course the Shanling can't do.
Downside to my PS3 is that I updated the software to the latest version, this means I've lost the "Install Other OS" option though and now I can't put linux on to use it as a pc/streamer (for FLAC etc).
It looks like "Geohot" hacked this feature but he's keeping quiet about how to do it.
I understand SONY disabled the "Other OS" option as it can be used to override disk copy protection, something I'd never have even been aware of had they not blocked it in the first place (as millions are now aware of his there is such a thing as bad publicity it seems).
The laser pickup etc in the Shanling is a SANYO and the rest is PHILIPS and BURR BROWN I think.
I replaced the laser pickup in the Shanling but it didn't cure a fault so I'll have another look, not sure why I typed this.