Thanks for clearing that up guys. Some more (stupid) questions:
I'm not using the original RCA's, i'm going straight from pins 15 and 16 into my my own teflons and going to use bigger DC caps in my preamp. SO:
1/ Where do i take ground from? Are those copper 'switches' that stick up to connect the chassis ground terminals?
2/ Is a 22k resistor from ground to RCAs ok?
3/ Does ground go to the bit on the RCAs that stick down a bit, and signal go to the gold bit directly in the middle of the jacks?
4/ Will adding 10uF onto the Dc caps of my preamp be enough?
sorry for all the questions!
I'm not using the original RCA's, i'm going straight from pins 15 and 16 into my my own teflons and going to use bigger DC caps in my preamp. SO:
1/ Where do i take ground from? Are those copper 'switches' that stick up to connect the chassis ground terminals?
2/ Is a 22k resistor from ground to RCAs ok?
3/ Does ground go to the bit on the RCAs that stick down a bit, and signal go to the gold bit directly in the middle of the jacks?
4/ Will adding 10uF onto the Dc caps of my preamp be enough?
sorry for all the questions!
Hi Fraserh,
1. The ground can be taken from a multitude of places but the best bet is to use micro-coax and ground the sheath close to the DAC so you shield the signal wire. I'm pretty sure I grounded mine to the pad shown on the picture. Just check that there is 0 ohms between the pad and the copper grounding straps you mentioned.
2. The resistor and the capacitor you put in there will give you a corner frequency for Bass cut-off so you need to calculate your requirement. See Mick F's site for more details.
I don't have a resistor in there but I do have a 50K pot after the caps..... 10uF + 50K let's the bass go very low.
3. As 1......
4. Again, it all depends on your pre-amp but as a rule you should replace the existing caps with the same value or bigger if you can't work it out.
Don't worry about the questions... we all have to start somewhere
1. The ground can be taken from a multitude of places but the best bet is to use micro-coax and ground the sheath close to the DAC so you shield the signal wire. I'm pretty sure I grounded mine to the pad shown on the picture. Just check that there is 0 ohms between the pad and the copper grounding straps you mentioned.
2. The resistor and the capacitor you put in there will give you a corner frequency for Bass cut-off so you need to calculate your requirement. See Mick F's site for more details.
I don't have a resistor in there but I do have a 50K pot after the caps..... 10uF + 50K let's the bass go very low.
3. As 1......
4. Again, it all depends on your pre-amp but as a rule you should replace the existing caps with the same value or bigger if you can't work it out.
Don't worry about the questions... we all have to start somewhere
Attachments
Ok i blew up my playstation nevermind i'll start again. This time i got hold of a scph1002 and a scph7502. I'm going to use the latter for practice. But it's got different EVERYTHING from the 1002 so not sure how to go about it. The PCB is about 1/3rd smaller and has no components on the back at all, chips are all different and PSU is different too.
There's a few interesting things though- the later model has a longer cable running from pcb to controller port if anyone wants to re-model the case with a remote then it would be handy having the longer cable. Also, it looks like even the same model use different transports- i've had two scph1002s and they had slightly different mechanisms as you can see in the photos.
1002 on the right http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0667.jpg
7502 front http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0673.jpg
1002 front http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0674.jpg
7502 back http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0675.jpg
1002 back http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0676.jpg
transports http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0680.jpg
BTW what is the power supply to the transport? I wonder if it's possible to use the shigaclone transport in the playstation??? The ribbon fits if that helps http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0681.jpg
nevermind i'll start again. This time i got hold of a scph1002 and a scph7502. I'm going to use the latter for practice. But it's got different EVERYTHING from the 1002 so not sure how to go about it. The PCB is about 1/3rd smaller and has no components on the back at all, chips are all different and PSU is different too.There's a few interesting things though- the later model has a longer cable running from pcb to controller port if anyone wants to re-model the case with a remote then it would be handy having the longer cable. Also, it looks like even the same model use different transports- i've had two scph1002s and they had slightly different mechanisms as you can see in the photos.
1002 on the right http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0667.jpg
7502 front http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0673.jpg
1002 front http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0674.jpg
7502 back http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0675.jpg
1002 back http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0676.jpg
transports http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0680.jpg
BTW what is the power supply to the transport? I wonder if it's possible to use the shigaclone transport in the playstation??? The ribbon fits if that helps
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0681.jpgModel #
Hi All
Sorry to hear about that Fraserh,have you listened to the 7502 model how does the sound compair, to the 1001/1002 models.Anyone listened to the 9002 model how do they compair.
My 1002 is on the blink,I think the lead from the the control section to pcb maybe the problem.I was going to buy a 7502 or a 9002 for spare parts/listening .Thanks Fraserh your last post answered a few of questions.Before I asked them
Hi All
Sorry to hear about that Fraserh,have you listened to the 7502 model how does the sound compair, to the 1001/1002 models.Anyone listened to the 9002 model how do they compair.
My 1002 is on the blink,I think the lead from the the control section to pcb maybe the problem.I was going to buy a 7502 or a 9002 for spare parts/listening .Thanks Fraserh your last post answered a few of questions.Before I asked them
I've lost count of the ones i've blown but nevermind i got here in the end I've been through several different models and they are all very different- and even the same models have different transports and PSUs sometimes- there doesn't seem to be a 'standard' version of any model..
Sounds bloody good though, an improvement on my VRDS + DAC i was using previously. Much more musical
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0688.jpg
I've been through several different models and they are all very different- and even the same models have different transports and PSUs sometimes- there doesn't seem to be a 'standard' version of any model..Sounds bloody good though, an improvement on my VRDS + DAC i was using previously. Much more musical
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a329/fraser1985/DSCN0688.jpg
Hi, thought i'd tag onto this thread.
I got a 1002 PS1 at a bootsale recently so thought i'd play with it.
I tried it stock, it was ok but nothing special.
I then bypassed the output stage with a 2.2uf cap and 22k resistors. Sounded better but still not amazing.
I had built a 5687 pre amp that i didnt end up using, i didnt need the extra gain, so i ran it through this as the output stage and now it sounds great!
This is the 5687 stage i used
http://diyparadise.com/preamptutorial.html
no volume pot with 1k grid stoppers.
So, now im thinking of playing with it some more.
I will re-house the PSU but what else can i do? I dont want to spend the money building a new PSU as CD is a secondary source for me.
Are there any mods worth doing to the origional PSU?
Any case/laser/drive mods worth doing?
I know there's alot of info in this thread but finding it isnt easy
Thanks.
I got a 1002 PS1 at a bootsale recently so thought i'd play with it.
I tried it stock, it was ok but nothing special.
I then bypassed the output stage with a 2.2uf cap and 22k resistors. Sounded better but still not amazing.
I had built a 5687 pre amp that i didnt end up using, i didnt need the extra gain, so i ran it through this as the output stage and now it sounds great!
This is the 5687 stage i used
http://diyparadise.com/preamptutorial.html
no volume pot with 1k grid stoppers.
So, now im thinking of playing with it some more.
I will re-house the PSU but what else can i do? I dont want to spend the money building a new PSU as CD is a secondary source for me.
Are there any mods worth doing to the origional PSU?
Any case/laser/drive mods worth doing?
I know there's alot of info in this thread but finding it isnt easy
Thanks.
Go to playfidelity.com
playfidelity.com
It's a great German Web site covering the various Playstation 1 models from an audiophile perspective. If you don't read German, use an online translation tool and you'll get most of the answers you need.
playfidelity.com
It's a great German Web site covering the various Playstation 1 models from an audiophile perspective. If you don't read German, use an online translation tool and you'll get most of the answers you need.
Mindcrime said:
Hi Dom, it really depends on your setup.
I run a T-amp through a 50K pot from my PS1 and I do not therefore require the resistors. Currently the setup is:
DAC > 4.7uf > 50k pot > 4.7uf > T-amp.
The pot replaces the resistor in this example and gives a very low pass filter for optimum bass
The Cap before the pot protects it from DC degredation.
Hope that helps
Lee
I recently got onto the PS1 bandwagon. After some serious listening, I've decided I like my unmodded PS1 more than my Marantz 6000OSE and Vintage Carver SD/A 360 5 Disc, which is a stunningly detailed player that was created by Yamaha for Carver. What I like in the PS1 is its excellence with delivering warm, full-bodied vocals. Just excellent with female voices. Yes, people can say, "sure it does..." but I'll be damned if the PS1 doesn't perform both those dedicated problems. My problem with it, however is drop outs. I purchased new replacement lasers for both units, and that seemed to help somewha, but the drop out still occur. I replaced the laser with the 1 parts that can be found here: http://store.richspsxparts.com/newkspllaas.html
My question is, I wonder if these are just mediocre laser and there might be a way to put in a high quality laser. Or, is the cause of drop outs not the laser at all?
My question is, I wonder if these are just mediocre laser and there might be a way to put in a high quality laser. Or, is the cause of drop outs not the laser at all?
Every laser has to be aligned, even the new ones. Take a looka at Mick's site (http://dogbreath.de/PS1/LaserAlignment/Laser.html).
Best regards
Flo
Best regards
Flo
Hm, I just downloaded the PS1 manual as a pdf. I didn't realize it had a bunch of "sound-shaping" options, e.g. "church" 'hall" "Dome" "Studio" "direct." Interestingly,there is also a SoundScope option when playing CD (when your hooked up to a tv). It's an oscilliscope display in a variety of patterns shaped by your music. I'm surprised none of these modders have thought about doing Marantz amp-kind of osciliscope display using the PS1's built in function. Now that would be fun. BTW, I tried adjust the voltage to no advantage. However I have learned it plays perfectly when you stand it up in the air on it left side. That's with both my units!