georgebrooke
It's not a bodge to seperate the magnetic field of your transformer from your signal level bits. (English slang translation, "Bodge" is to make very bad work)
Using the MickF supply you fit the last regulator and cap close to the motherboard, so that puts some unavoidable heat into the playstation. You avoid also adding the heat from the main regulators by using a remote power supply.
One school of thought is that the original switch mode power supply puts too much heat into the casing troubling the laser assemby so a remote supply scores points on a few levels.
John
It's not a bodge to seperate the magnetic field of your transformer from your signal level bits. (English slang translation, "Bodge" is to make very bad work)
Using the MickF supply you fit the last regulator and cap close to the motherboard, so that puts some unavoidable heat into the playstation. You avoid also adding the heat from the main regulators by using a remote power supply.
One school of thought is that the original switch mode power supply puts too much heat into the casing troubling the laser assemby so a remote supply scores points on a few levels.
John
Remote PSU
Well, I would not mind a good excuse to reuse what I have done and get an improvement at the same time. I shall have to see how small I can shrink this external box. Sometime soon I really should get back to the bi-amping and JBL rebuilds. Before that is the NS1000 bi-amping , according to the plan. ETA next year some time. Thanks for all the advice.
By the way, I think a bodge is when you do something in a way which you know is just a shortcut when you do it. I like your definition more though
Well, I would not mind a good excuse to reuse what I have done and get an improvement at the same time. I shall have to see how small I can shrink this external box. Sometime soon I really should get back to the bi-amping and JBL rebuilds. Before that is the NS1000 bi-amping , according to the plan. ETA next year some time. Thanks for all the advice.
By the way, I think a bodge is when you do something in a way which you know is just a shortcut when you do it. I like your definition more though
The Bodge
Well, since the Sony SCD-1 appears to be selling on eBay I can progress a bit more.
I am going to use an old power supply from a PC as the chassis for the PS1 power supply. I have ordered two Velleman power supply kits to use as a basis. It looks easy enough to upgrade them with the extra parts to improve the quality of the supply to the PS1. I have some spare heatsnks from an old power amp that I can use as one side of the box and as heatsink and the extra components I have knocking around in a drawer!
Unlike that in the PS1 upgrade article, my PS1 needs its own 240v supply for its pre-amp. hence this will feed the power input of the new power supply (which will keep its current on/off switch). This means all is controlled from the PS1. I will use a Neutrik connector for the voltage connection to the PS1 and embed a small board inside the PS1 for the rest of the regulation circuits. That should do it and for not much money either. But its still a bodge. As with software, the second attempt will be MUCH better.
Well, since the Sony SCD-1 appears to be selling on eBay I can progress a bit more.
I am going to use an old power supply from a PC as the chassis for the PS1 power supply. I have ordered two Velleman power supply kits to use as a basis. It looks easy enough to upgrade them with the extra parts to improve the quality of the supply to the PS1. I have some spare heatsnks from an old power amp that I can use as one side of the box and as heatsink and the extra components I have knocking around in a drawer!
Unlike that in the PS1 upgrade article, my PS1 needs its own 240v supply for its pre-amp. hence this will feed the power input of the new power supply (which will keep its current on/off switch). This means all is controlled from the PS1. I will use a Neutrik connector for the voltage connection to the PS1 and embed a small board inside the PS1 for the rest of the regulation circuits. That should do it and for not much money either. But its still a bodge. As with software, the second attempt will be MUCH better.
Bodge 2
Hi,
I suppose it is not too clear.. what I meant was:
The PS1 box has 240v for the pre-amp which I included in the box holding the PS1. This also has an on/off switch.
I plan to feed 240v from the PS1 box to the outside PS which will feed back the regulated suppleis, for final regulation back in the PS1 box.
Thus the on/off switch on the PS1 box controls all 240v supplies. If I had no pre-amp I could have run all from the outside PS
Hope that helps
Hi,
I suppose it is not too clear.. what I meant was:
The PS1 box has 240v for the pre-amp which I included in the box holding the PS1. This also has an on/off switch.
I plan to feed 240v from the PS1 box to the outside PS which will feed back the regulated suppleis, for final regulation back in the PS1 box.
Thus the on/off switch on the PS1 box controls all 240v supplies. If I had no pre-amp I could have run all from the outside PS
Hope that helps
Output Offset Voltage!?!
Thanks to this group I've been enjoying listening to a slightly modded PS1.
I was a little alarmed as I was twiddling with the volume contral on my amp to see the speaker cones moving in and out as I did, by a few mm. Once the knob stopped moving, the cones returned to their normal rest positions.
I checked and measured 2.42 v on both left and right leads. Pretty high, don't you think?
Anyway, I had removed the output caps as my Amp 32 (41hz) has input caps which should protect the amp, and in fact, it and the PS have been playing and listening just fine.
Anybody else have this experience? I know the blocking caps are there for a reason, but is 2.42 v offset really the way it was designed? Any way you know to adjust this closer to zero?
Or should I stopy worrying and not look at my speakers when adjusting the volume?
--Buckapound
Thanks to this group I've been enjoying listening to a slightly modded PS1.
I was a little alarmed as I was twiddling with the volume contral on my amp to see the speaker cones moving in and out as I did, by a few mm. Once the knob stopped moving, the cones returned to their normal rest positions.
I checked and measured 2.42 v on both left and right leads. Pretty high, don't you think?
Anyway, I had removed the output caps as my Amp 32 (41hz) has input caps which should protect the amp, and in fact, it and the PS have been playing and listening just fine.
Anybody else have this experience? I know the blocking caps are there for a reason, but is 2.42 v offset really the way it was designed? Any way you know to adjust this closer to zero?
Or should I stopy worrying and not look at my speakers when adjusting the volume?
--Buckapound
I also thank this group for all the helpful information. I've been enjoying my PS1 for a few months now.
The other day when I was listening to it with a friend, we noticed that there was some static-like noise creeping into the songs about 10-20 seconds after the songs started. I have another CD player connected to my amp, so we checked that and the problem disappeared, so the PS1 must be the source of the static. Has anyone else had this happen? Any suggestions on how to fix it, or do I need to junk it and buy another one? (I did tune it up properly when I bought it a few months ago, and I got it adjusted very close to the target voltages.)
Thanks,
Mike
The other day when I was listening to it with a friend, we noticed that there was some static-like noise creeping into the songs about 10-20 seconds after the songs started. I have another CD player connected to my amp, so we checked that and the problem disappeared, so the PS1 must be the source of the static. Has anyone else had this happen? Any suggestions on how to fix it, or do I need to junk it and buy another one? (I did tune it up properly when I bought it a few months ago, and I got it adjusted very close to the target voltages.)
Thanks,
Mike
Re: My modded Sony playstation 1
Sadly mine is not, electronically it sounds great, nice and clean and quiet, but mechanically is another story. Mine has a ton of mechanical noise being introduced into my listening environment, granted it no longer has the cover or even the top of the case, but still it's much to loud. What can I do to quiet the transport noise on my ps1? I really want to re-case it, but at this point its loud enough that it bothers me and makes me not want to put any work into it. I suppose the easy answer is to turn up the volume and listen to my music louder...
georgebrooke said:
Sadly mine is not, electronically it sounds great, nice and clean and quiet, but mechanically is another story. Mine has a ton of mechanical noise being introduced into my listening environment, granted it no longer has the cover or even the top of the case, but still it's much to loud. What can I do to quiet the transport noise on my ps1? I really want to re-case it, but at this point its loud enough that it bothers me and makes me not want to put any work into it. I suppose the easy answer is to turn up the volume and listen to my music louder...
PS1 Noise
Hi,
re noise... feeding the DAC directly to the built-in line amp that I made results in no background noise at full volume at all. Totally silent. If you use the phono outputs you are running through the cheap on-board amp. You should just chop it out.
Re. mechanical noise. There are a few possible sources. The most likely, in my experience, is cyclic and is to do with improper centering of the cd on the drive. The plasic disk which holds three tiny spring-loaded ball-bearings is responsible for this. It could be cracked or insufficiently pressed home. They are available on eBay for a couple of £ should you damage yours. To remove them you generally break them!
Other mechanical noise can be damped out by using a sensibly heavy cabinet. I use a steel cabinet (ex Musical Fidelity amplifier) and the player is mechanically silent at more than a couple of feet away. However, I never did notice much mechanical noise, apart from the cyclic mentioned above, so I should spend a little time investigating further.
I am currently building the extended linear power supplies, as there is no doubt that the PS1 runs hot. The power supplies will be configurable so that I can use them for other projects later. I am also planning to remove the caps connected to the DAC and connect directly to my line-amp , which has its own input caps. This will probably extend the bass a tiny amount. Other than that, I still find the sound compares very well with my (now sold) Sony SCD-1, perhaps a little brighter, but more detailed.
Hi,
re noise... feeding the DAC directly to the built-in line amp that I made results in no background noise at full volume at all. Totally silent. If you use the phono outputs you are running through the cheap on-board amp. You should just chop it out.
Re. mechanical noise. There are a few possible sources. The most likely, in my experience, is cyclic and is to do with improper centering of the cd on the drive. The plasic disk which holds three tiny spring-loaded ball-bearings is responsible for this. It could be cracked or insufficiently pressed home. They are available on eBay for a couple of £ should you damage yours. To remove them you generally break them!
Other mechanical noise can be damped out by using a sensibly heavy cabinet. I use a steel cabinet (ex Musical Fidelity amplifier) and the player is mechanically silent at more than a couple of feet away. However, I never did notice much mechanical noise, apart from the cyclic mentioned above, so I should spend a little time investigating further.
I am currently building the extended linear power supplies, as there is no doubt that the PS1 runs hot. The power supplies will be configurable so that I can use them for other projects later. I am also planning to remove the caps connected to the DAC and connect directly to my line-amp , which has its own input caps. This will probably extend the bass a tiny amount. Other than that, I still find the sound compares very well with my (now sold) Sony SCD-1, perhaps a little brighter, but more detailed.
ATTNuffin or any other UK PS1 modder want to mod my PS1 for £'s?...
any UK PS1 DIY'ers that want to make some good money modding mine as per my sig, please feel free to PM me, i was trying to contact Puffin, but the system wouldnt allow me to PM him
its my sole CD source and i have already botched another 1002 i had and just want to get the best performance out of it and use it from then on in
i have sourced and fitted the BAM laser and the nichicon PSU as a good base.
cheers
uffin or any other UK PS1 modder want to mod my PS1 for £'s?...any UK PS1 DIY'ers that want to make some good money modding mine as per my sig, please feel free to PM me, i was trying to contact Puffin, but the system wouldnt allow me to PM him
its my sole CD source and i have already botched another 1002 i had and just want to get the best performance out of it and use it from then on in
i have sourced and fitted the BAM laser and the nichicon PSU as a good base.
cheers
Mate, I'll do the mod for you if you want but it's a great board to start learning on... even if you get it wrong you haven't shelled out a great deal!
I've still got two PS1's in the garage that I bought for £15 (for both) from a car boot sale....
To make it simple for starters just wire up two new RCA's with some mini coax and pop your caps in the space on the righ hand side of the case.
Audio 1st was the first to do it, do a search for his post.....
I've still got two PS1's in the garage that I bought for £15 (for both) from a car boot sale....
To make it simple for starters just wire up two new RCA's with some mini coax and pop your caps in the space on the righ hand side of the case.
Audio 1st was the first to do it, do a search for his post.....
cheers lostcause, have got someone for the mods now, thanks though.
yeah i guess you are right, nice learner, but i bodged one and i am down to my last one with the choice base parts, i am built to listen to audio not help create it obviously!
time to start reading my newly aquired soldering for dummies book
yeah i guess you are right, nice learner, but i bodged one and i am down to my last one with the choice base parts, i am built to listen to audio not help create it obviously!
time to start reading my newly aquired soldering for dummies book
HI there people
I have been using a PS1 model SCPH 102 as a CDP for a few months now and have been really impressed by its natural unforced sound which is so listenable. So much so my normal CDP, a NAD 521BEE has not been used.
Having got through reading about half the pages in this thread so far I went an purchased the holy grail 1002 model which I may or may not mod depending on how it sounds in its stock form.
When I connected it up and tried to play a disc, the display comes up properly but it will not read the contents. All that happens is the laser head moves in and out as though it is trying to focus and the disc does not spin. Is there an adjustment or easy fix or has the transport seen better days and need replacing?? Anyone got any suggestions??
Many thanks
Mike
I have been using a PS1 model SCPH 102 as a CDP for a few months now and have been really impressed by its natural unforced sound which is so listenable. So much so my normal CDP, a NAD 521BEE has not been used.
Having got through reading about half the pages in this thread so far I went an purchased the holy grail 1002 model which I may or may not mod depending on how it sounds in its stock form.
When I connected it up and tried to play a disc, the display comes up properly but it will not read the contents. All that happens is the laser head moves in and out as though it is trying to focus and the disc does not spin. Is there an adjustment or easy fix or has the transport seen better days and need replacing?? Anyone got any suggestions??
Many thanks
Mike
sounds like there is obviously some issue, whether or not its redeemable is another matter, some of the more tech guys on this thread will hopefully post, but in that interim, have a look at this page and see if there is anything similar to your situtaion
http://www.bearykirby.com/tech/ps1.htmhttp://www.bearykirby.com/tech/ps1.htm
a new laser unit isnt costly fortunately and is essentially snap fit and easy to drop into your unit if thats at fault!
http://www.bearykirby.com/tech/ps1.htmhttp://www.bearykirby.com/tech/ps1.htm
a new laser unit isnt costly fortunately and is essentially snap fit and easy to drop into your unit if thats at fault!
@Puffin, drat, i am gutted also, lol - you were the one that i wanted initially (no offence to individual i am dealing with! <- you are being a star!)
you pimped it out like i am trying to, heh. spikes and stuff on the PSU! good man.
feel free to contact me via my profile as i am awaiting another 1002 and should really get that done as a backup
i even emailed admins and asked them to forward my message to you some days back, but its an option in your account so as to disallow contact. (mine was set to the same initially)
back on topic, can i ask how come the inbuilt RCA's on the two 1002's i have had, have an extremely high noise floor, like clearly evident hiss/static, more than i have ever heard in any functioning audio gear, and with the AV multi out its black.silent.nothing.
i realize its going through an additional opamp and some caps, but wow, is that part reason people like its sound? (high distortion and MASSIVE dithering of sorts) lol
you pimped it out like i am trying to, heh. spikes and stuff on the PSU! good man.
feel free to contact me via my profile as i am awaiting another 1002 and should really get that done as a backup
i even emailed admins and asked them to forward my message to you some days back, but its an option in your account so as to disallow contact. (mine was set to the same initially)
back on topic, can i ask how come the inbuilt RCA's on the two 1002's i have had, have an extremely high noise floor, like clearly evident hiss/static, more than i have ever heard in any functioning audio gear, and with the AV multi out its black.silent.nothing.
i realize its going through an additional opamp and some caps, but wow, is that part reason people like its sound? (high distortion and MASSIVE dithering of sorts) lol
SCPH-1002 RCA output impendance?
hi guys, has anyone been able to find out the factory set figure for the RCA output impedance - i havent got any measuring tools.
i am trying to match it to my preamp and cables, my preamp is 20k input on the RCA and have adjusted my RCAs to this low band also
but wanted to get everything in harmony as much as possible.
will have another search on tinternet now...
hi guys, has anyone been able to find out the factory set figure for the RCA output impedance - i havent got any measuring tools.
i am trying to match it to my preamp and cables, my preamp is 20k input on the RCA and have adjusted my RCAs to this low band also
but wanted to get everything in harmony as much as possible.
will have another search on tinternet now...