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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Now that payments are being made and production is starting for the 2012 Shigaclone
Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story I thought we should start a new thread with recommendations for how to turn this latest version into a giant killer of a transport. First of course, great thanks needs to go out to our friends in Poland, Peter Daniel, Tvicol, Jazz35, and anyone else I forgot to mention. None of this would have been possible without this team's collective work. With Tibi's okay it seemed like a new thread would be a good place to start this phase of discussion for the 2012 Shiga. My proposal is that we work on creating a transport that can go up against the likes of the ML 31.5, CEC TL0, Linn CD12, Wadias etc. I know there is no one "best transport in the world", just as there is no single best of anything in high end audio, but the plan is to try and get to a level where a tweaked Shiga can stand on its own against the most highly regarded transports of the past and present. I’m not suggesting the new Shiga won’t sound good at the start – I suspect it will sound pretty darn good. The hope is to take it to the best it can be. I further propose the following as a baseline definition:
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: bodø
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Cant wait to get my Shigaclone in door and start testing and compare it to the orginal
__________________
-- http://www.polarboing.com |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Okay, I'm still trying to figure out how to start this without everyone having to read through 6000+ messages. I think for those who haven't already done it, reading through the first several pages of the original thread (posted above) is a good thing to do. There's a lot more there, but read enough to get the stage set.
If you want to see then what Peter did from this thread, go here The CD Transport It's only 21 pages , but there's a lot of good info showing where Peter went after putting the foundation in place.Then there's a bunch of good info from uncle_leon on caps Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story But keep in mind the cap numbers in the Shiga using the original PCB are not the same as the numbers in the 2012 version. C916 in the original appears to be C43 in "this year's model" . Additionally, uncle_leon may be working on consolidating all of his upgrade experience from the original Shiga. Perhaps when it's posted he'll help us migrate the relevant parts here.There's also a lot of great tweak information (again for the original) by Erik van Voorst in the original thread. If interested in examining a Bobken regulator to see if it might be worth using in the 2012 Shiga, do a search in the original thread for posts by CeeVee. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Important documentation and sizing information
Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story vicol audio : shiga CD transport http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...t_01082012.zip |
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#5 |
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Dimitris
diyAudio Member
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Another very important part that will bother everyone even before the size/casing etc is the puck. Any suggestions?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Sean Henderson had a great suggestion here
Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story But Tibi has indicated they are also working on a remote and a puck as part of the new effort. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I am a little confuse regarding PUCK??? As I learn from tread "Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story" the best puck is Light puck... from ebony, aluminium... I also try magnetic original... heavy from brass... and light from nylon... And for all that i fine nylon a best solution see the picture. Any explanations or confirmation ??? Regards Cici |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Johnson City, TN
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I see two possible approaches to the puck. (1) as light as possible to minimize imbalance. (2) heavy within the limits of loading the motor so as to stabilize imbalance due to eccentricity of the CD itself.
Considering the weight of the CD and the fact that it's weight extends much further out than the puck, I believe light is the best way to go. In addition, a heavy puck will load the motor more, although it might help with minimizing rotational variation. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yes the heavy puck it's perfect...see the picture!
But i prefer a ligth one! |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
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Hi,
I like it that the Linn cd 12 is mentioned. It will certain not easy to equal that quality. I still keep thinking why linn use a smps in that player. Just people said don't use a smps in audio because the nois produced by high frequency. But linn solve this problem. And is it indeed that a lineair ps is not sufficient for high quality? Is there anyone who can give a push in the right direction? |
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