I had the same question a few months ago. All the pre soldered boards come that way and function as they should.
many thanks indeed, Clave.
do i remember reading that 4396 requires additional 5v, or am i mistaken and just build the board as per your instructions/images (anyone know the answer to this, so i don't have bother Clave?)
cheers
9VA AC for feeding a 5V Salas shunt reg will work, but 12VAC, rectified around 15VDC is better, giving 10V of dropout voltage. I've tried both, and will not go back to the three legs reg for the AK4396 VA. Separate transformers or separate transformer outputs is recommended to isolate analog supply from noisy digital rail.
Hello all,
I have build one DAC with AK4396 and orginal parts over one year ego. It´s souds good.
So, now I want build one DAC with parts like in the BOM, but without the CS8416.
I have a DSP with a I2S output and this can I connected direct on the input of the AK4396.
I have only one problem: In the BOM isn´t specified the "L1" and "L2".
Can everyone write me what parts can I use?
Thanks,
Norbert
I have build one DAC with AK4396 and orginal parts over one year ego. It´s souds good.
So, now I want build one DAC with parts like in the BOM, but without the CS8416.
I have a DSP with a I2S output and this can I connected direct on the input of the AK4396.
I have only one problem: In the BOM isn´t specified the "L1" and "L2".
Can everyone write me what parts can I use?
Thanks,
Norbert
hi clave (or who ever can help), sorry to trouble you. i have shown the bom and all images to my dad and have a query. did search for it, but nothing obvious jumping out.
1. what is the browndog?
2. can you point me to the right posts about how to add that capacitor to the mini board in your images. what exactly was done, unclear from images (for me anyway, trying not to bother dad too much!) - is the board the browndog, is it home made?
cheers guys
1. what is the browndog?
2. can you point me to the right posts about how to add that capacitor to the mini board in your images. what exactly was done, unclear from images (for me anyway, trying not to bother dad too much!) - is the board the browndog, is it home made?
cheers guys
Hi Bismith, thanks for the comments.
I agree regarding separate PS lines for analog and digital, and seperate transformer for the Op Amp. So, looks like I need another transformer, and build one Salas to create the D+3.3 V, and one Sales for the A+5v.
I can buy a new R Type transformer, or replace the R Type that is powering the Op Amp. Any suggestions here ?
Jim.
Re: L1, L2
Hi Norbert -
L1 & L2 are inductors; presumably for EMI/RF reduction ... form a passive low-pass filter. At [2024] Bob wrote he contacted one of the online kit vendors, who confirmed L1 & L2 are 1.5 UH.
If you want to view more discussion of it, search the thread with the keywords "ferrite bead" or "beads."
Paul
Hi Norbert -
L1 & L2 are inductors; presumably for EMI/RF reduction ... form a passive low-pass filter. At [2024] Bob wrote he contacted one of the online kit vendors, who confirmed L1 & L2 are 1.5 UH.
If you want to view more discussion of it, search the thread with the keywords "ferrite bead" or "beads."
Paul
Tanks, Paul,
I think that will be o.k.?
SMCC 1,50µ - Drosselspule, Festinduktivität, axial, 1,50µ bei reichelt elektronik
Norbert
I think that will be o.k.?
SMCC 1,50µ - Drosselspule, Festinduktivität, axial, 1,50µ bei reichelt elektronik
Norbert
Dario,
some questions if you don't mind re:
signal path AK4396 - by specifying 0.1% for R23/28/29/34 I assume they affect the sound more than R24/26/30/32 @ 1%? is this so.
For R25/27/31/33 - same question.
As this kit is so cheap when compared to commercial DACs, I don't mind paying for components that I know for sure make a difference and Z foils are one of these.
I see that you also like BC - Philips LL, I'm thinking about splashing out on Kendiel caps for the PS - over-the-top for this DAC ?
You rec. Cerafine for decoupling of op-amps why not Oscons as per Erin?
Heat is something that most commercial and diy kits never address - when the kit arrives I want to see if I can use it on it's side with holes or slots on both sides to create a convection current especially useful re. regs and so on.
A general question to all - I see that sometimes it is nec to buy more of a particular value than you need for this DAC - so you end up with a box full of parts that you may never need again - it's not a question of money - is it an idea for those who have spares to list them and sell them on to those who still have not bought parts yet.
I've got loads of stuff that I need to get rid of and maybe swaps are a way to get rid of some - just a thought.
some questions if you don't mind re:
signal path AK4396 - by specifying 0.1% for R23/28/29/34 I assume they affect the sound more than R24/26/30/32 @ 1%? is this so.
For R25/27/31/33 - same question.
As this kit is so cheap when compared to commercial DACs, I don't mind paying for components that I know for sure make a difference and Z foils are one of these.
I see that you also like BC - Philips LL, I'm thinking about splashing out on Kendiel caps for the PS - over-the-top for this DAC ?
You rec. Cerafine for decoupling of op-amps why not Oscons as per Erin?
Heat is something that most commercial and diy kits never address - when the kit arrives I want to see if I can use it on it's side with holes or slots on both sides to create a convection current especially useful re. regs and so on.
A general question to all - I see that sometimes it is nec to buy more of a particular value than you need for this DAC - so you end up with a box full of parts that you may never need again - it's not a question of money - is it an idea for those who have spares to list them and sell them on to those who still have not bought parts yet.
I've got loads of stuff that I need to get rid of and maybe swaps are a way to get rid of some - just a thought.
No... the first one is the original value, the other the 'upgrade' one...
I've updated titles on spreadsheet, maybe this way is more clear:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AuqKRBuaKtzYdDc4REhwejVzNjN6WTVSNUhTdldoeVE
It's not about perceveid sound quality but about precision.
The opamp do two things in the MINI2496:
- filter
- unbalancer
Yes and no...
BC caps are nice sounding (high voltage rating ones, particularly) but they're not good for all positions, often they sound too much thin...
They works better than all the caps I've tried in the recommended positions but can sound awful in the others...
While OSCONs are fantastic caps for digital decoupling like most low ESR caps they are able to supply curent in a very fast (but non-linear) behaviour.
This often results in bad sound, IMHO.
Audio rated caps like Cerafines sound much better (less harsh, fuller and richer in harmonics) on analog supplies (opamps, analog section of DACs and so on).
The best caps for such role were the discontinued Blackgates.
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cheers again, clave. once i've done this (hopefully!), can u pm your paypal email, i'll buy you a few beers for your efforts with the BOM etc!
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this thread is just MASSIVE!!! (apologies for being a late-comer and probably asking obvious questions, but the search results are minefield, too. i am trying to bookmark pages as i go!)
1. is the general consensus that a main supply of 15VDC is good?
2. i've ordered one of the suitable R transformers. does this require any more regulation than the board offers?
3. there's a lot of talk about the salas shunt 5V for analogue. is it absolutely necessary? i'm a newb and would like to try the DAC with R transformer 'as is'. (at first, at least).
4. are there any images of a finished salas and where the 5V connection point is on the DAC, to save my dad pulling his hair out because i've asked him help me with minimal hassle!!!
(also, when me dad starts helping, i won't need to hassle you guys too much either!)
thanks again people
1. is the general consensus that a main supply of 15VDC is good?
2. i've ordered one of the suitable R transformers. does this require any more regulation than the board offers?
3. there's a lot of talk about the salas shunt 5V for analogue. is it absolutely necessary? i'm a newb and would like to try the DAC with R transformer 'as is'. (at first, at least).
4. are there any images of a finished salas and where the 5V connection point is on the DAC, to save my dad pulling his hair out because i've asked him help me with minimal hassle!!!
(also, when me dad starts helping, i won't need to hassle you guys too much either!)
thanks again people