Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

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dantwomey

Member
Joined 2002
Paid Member
jonners said:


I just want to report that I tried this method of connecting a separate 5V supply but couldn't get it to work. The disc would spin for a while but when it stopped the display showed zero and the disc wouldn't play.
Click to expand...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I've been looking at this and have some questions.

First we can see where L901 is removed to supply our 8vdc. To supply a separate 5v we have to remove Q902 and supply +5vdc to the opening left by the collector or to the + side of C916.

The negative sides of the +8 and +5 supplies would have to be reference (tied) together and be powered up at the same time?

I was wondering if we could tap into Peter's original supply just after the diodes and regulate down to a +5v supply from there?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Regards,
Dan
 
jonners

jonners

Member
Joined 2007
dantwomey said:



I've been looking at this and have some questions.

First we can see where L901 is removed to supply our 8vdc. To supply a separate 5v we have to remove Q902 and supply +5vdc to the opening left by the collector or to the + side of C916.

The negative sides of the +8 and +5 supplies would have to be reference (tied) together and be powered up at the same time?

I was wondering if we could tap into Peter's original supply just after the diodes and regulate down to a +5v supply from there?


Regards,
Dan
Click to expand...

Hello Dan
Yes, you can certainly tap the supply after the diodes to supply a 5V regulator.

The 8V and 5V supplies would then be sharing a common earth so you would only need one earth connection to the board.

However, as I said - I can't get this to work! This was, I believe, a suggestion that Peter made which he hadn't actually tried. The method he used was to cut the trace leading from the collector and connect the 5V there, but this looks difficult to me - I think the trace that needs to be cut is under the heatsink.

John
 
Erik van Voorst

Erik van Voorst

Member
Joined 2006
members.ziggo.nl/e.van.voorst/
Today I nearly finished the external power supply box and I worked on the transport lower deck...a nice damping bottom for the trafo's
 

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D

dantwomey

Member
Joined 2002
Paid Member
jonners said:


Hello Dan
Yes, you can certainly tap the supply after the diodes to supply a 5V regulator.

The 8V and 5V supplies would then be sharing a common earth so you would only need one earth connection to the board.

However, as I said - I can't get this to work! This was, I believe, a suggestion that Peter made which he hadn't actually tried. The method he used was to cut the trace leading from the collector and connect the 5V there, but this looks difficult to me - that trace that needs to be cut seems to disappear under the heatsink.

John
Click to expand...

I'm missing why the trace would need to be cut. Couldn't we not use the collector pad from the removed Q902 as the location for the +5v wire? This leads to C916 which feeds the +5v to the require areas?

Regards,
Dan
 
jonners

jonners

Member
Joined 2007
dantwomey said:


Yes. The jumper wire listed in playermods.pdf goes to the + side of C916. You could just cut the trace and feed your +5v there.

Regards,
Dan
Click to expand...


Yes, I think you're right Dan. But the schematic doesn't entirely agree with what's on the board. (Erik did refer to mistakes). The schematic shows the +side of C954 connecting only to the LA6541 chip. On the board it connects with the 5V+ at C916! (Mind you, I do have the EZ51 not the 31 - but all the component numbering etc. looks the same to me.)

John
 
Erik van Voorst

Erik van Voorst

Member
Joined 2006
members.ziggo.nl/e.van.voorst/
kanifee said:
erik how did you aquire such industrial size pieces of copper, they seem so rare these days, the plate and tubing is of measurements beyond the normal end user market. your design seems to stear quite far away from your organelle mock up, where are you taking this design?
Click to expand...


I was able to buy it (for the copper-price) from an industrial client .
I am still building according to my MDF scale...only the
bottomplate becomes a shallow compartment in real life...(such as in the Kalista...)

Since I never make drawings I build most of it "while I am at it"
I always give myself room for changes without loosing to much of my original idea.


:smash:
 

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Tripmaster

Tripmaster

Member
Joined 2008
Hi all

I have just stripped down my first EZ31 and I am now starting to put together a component order.

Shigaclone PCB

1 x BG STD 1000/25v
1 x BG FK 2200/35v

2 x BG N 4.7/50 (I cant seem to find these anywhere, can someone suggest an alternative?)

1 x BG N 10/50v
1 x BG N 33/16v
1 x BG N 47/6.3v

1 x ERO 10n
1 x 300-8441 oscillator

PSU

2 x BG STD 1000/50v
2 x MSR860
1 x LM7808
1 x Dale 100R
1 x Dale 300R

I will use the standard transformer to begin with.

Chipamp (Dual Mono 3886)

For those of you who have tinkered with one of these, I thought I might upgrade the caps on this board with some blackgates. Which caps should I replace to achieve the greatest gain in audio performance? Panasonic FC are currently installed.


I am going to be ordering the parts from the US and want to try and get everything in one go so as to save on postage.

Is there anything I may have missed?

Thanks

Richard
 
Tripmaster

Tripmaster

Member
Joined 2008
jonners said:



BG Std. or BG PK?
Click to expand...

Hi Jonners

Duh!

I was looking at another supplier yesterday who didn't have them in std or pk but Percy Audio appear to have them on their price list. I will send them an email to find out if they have some in stock.

Have you tried any UK suppliers for Blackgate? I have looked at the hifi collective website

Is there anything else I may have missed?

Thanks

Richard
 
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