I think it may be important to know what kind of damage it had your previous used USB cable. If it should be damaged so that the power pin/wire could come in contact with one of the data wires/pins, then it could be damaged the input itself for the USB chip. It looks like you may need a service for your device...
Hallo Coris. thank you for response. You are right when I inspect wires of usb cable it was mass inside (pin/wire can contacted each other). Servicing in my country is problem to sand it back to US than back is same to by new one. I send letter Oppo customer service reply was fast, few letters than I ask for N1 board to buy for them or at list give advice which usb/spdif converter I can use. More than week I am waiting ,no reply . At my plays (rep Gergia. Tbilisi) there are some audio only or comp only guys. They don't want , don't know how to fix it. I can do myself some simple thinks but I have not have adequate knowledge. How you think it must be replaced some part or? I try Oppo with Ifi nano and use coaxial inn and sound was different trought Ifi and Oppo. Oppo was much more resolute I know there are different chips. I wonder how I can manage some your upgrades is there ways to do so? Looking for your response. Best wishes Gogali.
Hi gogali
The USB function/interface is at least the most important for HA-1. It is meant to be used as headphone amplifier and DAC. Without the DAC part of it, is quite a dead device...
As normal, if you bought the HA-1 from a local reseller, then it may be included the warranty in the price, and after sell service if it may happen as in your case.
Else, it may be possible to send me the digital board, to take a closer look at it.
Please PM me if you think you may go further in this direction.
The USB function/interface is at least the most important for HA-1. It is meant to be used as headphone amplifier and DAC. Without the DAC part of it, is quite a dead device...
As normal, if you bought the HA-1 from a local reseller, then it may be included the warranty in the price, and after sell service if it may happen as in your case.
Else, it may be possible to send me the digital board, to take a closer look at it.
Please PM me if you think you may go further in this direction.
Hi Coris. I bought HA-1 online and friend send it to me(from US). I will like to send you board and if I'm right you mean main controller and usb audio transport board ? I have a question if I use usb/spdif with better clock can I achieve better results ( how I see You are not happy with it) at a price of dsd and higher resolution sacrifice (in real life there is no such recordings). Looking for your reply.
Better clock oscillators it improve the resulted sound quality. Here is about both the USB asynchronous stage clocks, as the clock for the DAC itself. While the USB oscillators are placed on the digital board, the DAC clock it is on the main board of HA-1.
If you are thinking to go further, and may want to send me your board, then we can develop about this subject through Personal Messages (PM), as the posts in the thread it may be meant for general interest.
Please send me PM about your board/issue.
If you are thinking to go further, and may want to send me your board, then we can develop about this subject through Personal Messages (PM), as the posts in the thread it may be meant for general interest.
Please send me PM about your board/issue.
Hi Coris
Just had a question pop into my mind and thought you'd be the best to answer it.
I see that it has analog inputs, in fact both RCA and balanced XLR inputs. Just wondering if the Oppo HA-1 keeps the analog input all the way to the outputs or does it use an ADC and convert the analog to digital(?), which means everything goes through the Sabre DAC etc, just as the Oppo 105/D everything goes through that. There are pros and cons of course, but in the Oppo 105/D that means that the inbuilt volume control of the Sabre DAC is used. But if there is no ADC, then the analog outputs stay analog and you need an actual volume control/pot. Some may not like the use of an ADC, but maybe not all bad?
I need to have a physical example of the HA-1 to get some answers, but maybe you can help me first?
Cheers, Joe
.
Just had a question pop into my mind and thought you'd be the best to answer it.
I see that it has analog inputs, in fact both RCA and balanced XLR inputs. Just wondering if the Oppo HA-1 keeps the analog input all the way to the outputs or does it use an ADC and convert the analog to digital(?), which means everything goes through the Sabre DAC etc, just as the Oppo 105/D everything goes through that. There are pros and cons of course, but in the Oppo 105/D that means that the inbuilt volume control of the Sabre DAC is used. But if there is no ADC, then the analog outputs stay analog and you need an actual volume control/pot. Some may not like the use of an ADC, but maybe not all bad?
I need to have a physical example of the HA-1 to get some answers, but maybe you can help me first?
Cheers, Joe
.
Well, well Joe, welcome to this thread. At least you should get into this field too, sooner or later...
No, no...No way to digitize the (XLR/RCA) inputs of this device... They goes straight (differential) analogue to the outputs. All what it happen inside (signal processing) is differential. RCA is converted to/into differential. The DAC is a different and stand alone stage into HA-1. Its output signals are commuted accordingly to the user will (relays system). Actually connected to the rest of the analogue differential signal processing/outputs. The volume control in HA-1 is analogue too (motorized analogue potentiometer). The DAC is configured for full volume out, and all its channels are tied together for stereo.
HA-1 is an analogue device (power system too), where the only digital stage for signal processing, is the (USB) DAC. Well, there is SPDIF, as the optical interface, and Bluetooth stage, which are digital treated. Then the enough sophisticated digital control stage. However the signal is analogue treated.
Oppo models have not XLR/RCA inputs, but only inputs through HDMI, and for some models, USB in. So, "everything" which is to come in is already digitized, then used so through the whole system. HA-1 is a different approach.
No, no...No way to digitize the (XLR/RCA) inputs of this device... They goes straight (differential) analogue to the outputs. All what it happen inside (signal processing) is differential. RCA is converted to/into differential. The DAC is a different and stand alone stage into HA-1. Its output signals are commuted accordingly to the user will (relays system). Actually connected to the rest of the analogue differential signal processing/outputs. The volume control in HA-1 is analogue too (motorized analogue potentiometer). The DAC is configured for full volume out, and all its channels are tied together for stereo.
HA-1 is an analogue device (power system too), where the only digital stage for signal processing, is the (USB) DAC. Well, there is SPDIF, as the optical interface, and Bluetooth stage, which are digital treated. Then the enough sophisticated digital control stage. However the signal is analogue treated.
Oppo models have not XLR/RCA inputs, but only inputs through HDMI, and for some models, USB in. So, "everything" which is to come in is already digitized, then used so through the whole system. HA-1 is a different approach.
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Coris, just another question:
Is that possible to use the analog XLR inputs and get the signal amplified with the class A amplifier? Or the Class A amplifier can only be used when the HA-1's DAC is used?
I'm asking to know if I can, for example, use a Benchmark DAC2 to perform the digital-to-analog conversion, but rather to use the HA-1's headphone amplifier to drive my cans. I'm not willing to do that, it's too much money, but just for curiosity!
Thanks again!
Is that possible to use the analog XLR inputs and get the signal amplified with the class A amplifier? Or the Class A amplifier can only be used when the HA-1's DAC is used?
I'm asking to know if I can, for example, use a Benchmark DAC2 to perform the digital-to-analog conversion, but rather to use the HA-1's headphone amplifier to drive my cans. I'm not willing to do that, it's too much money, but just for curiosity!
Thanks again!
Yes, of course. All what is imputed to the HA-1, it can be outputted (analogue audio signals) through its class A amplifier. If you proceed to a quite simple modification (making an adapter), you can use (as I do with very good results) the class A output as line output to be connected to the further power amp.
The class A outputs on HA-1 it provide both balanced and unbalanced.
The class A outputs on HA-1 it provide both balanced and unbalanced.
Hi all,
I wanted to know if Coris the (multi meter Wizard) has done a complete guide to upgrading the oppo HA1. I am an aerospace qualified solderer but i know little about electronics. My wife was very angry that i bought the AMP so when i mentioned it can be upgraded by a firm for £700 she said no.... If i know what devices and were to fit ( with heat shields/ EMI) i could maybe do this as my first project.
Thanks and good luck
Dave
oh, as the case is Aluminum would copper foil on the inside help with RFI/ EMI?
I wanted to know if Coris the (multi meter Wizard) has done a complete guide to upgrading the oppo HA1. I am an aerospace qualified solderer but i know little about electronics. My wife was very angry that i bought the AMP so when i mentioned it can be upgraded by a firm for £700 she said no.... If i know what devices and were to fit ( with heat shields/ EMI) i could maybe do this as my first project.
Thanks and good luck
Dave
oh, as the case is Aluminum would copper foil on the inside help with RFI/ EMI?
As a little part of the "all" out there, I can answer you somehow...
Just curious...What you meant about "multi meter Wizard"?
Just curious again... What it may be called that firm which it do 700£ mods for HA1 (you may specify that in a PM)
Else, (as I know so far) there is not any "complete" tutorial for HA-1 mods. And i doubt you may find such somewhere...
First (concerning my mods), I do not intend to work for the whole world just for free... or give out the best clues to other modders or mod firms to earn their moneys based on free informations from a forum or so. At least such tutorials it mean lot of work, time spent for this task, and so on. I do hope you may agree with all these aspects.
There are some tutorials and quite many informations about this device here in this thread, if you may have time to spent reading it (backwards post order).
An amount of 700$£ is not quite much for such enough high end device (however not so high end, but anyway...). Actually the HA-1 it become a true high end device after some modifications. However, far from my intentions to counter your wife`s opinion...
Sorry for you, but I have to say that the mod you mentioned (copper foil for inside shielding) is not just an important or useful modification. At least copper is in the same non magnetic metals family as aluminium. To shield against RFI/EMI radiations a better material is based on nickel, steel, and/or so (there exist out there special EMI shielding materials special designed for this purpose). However, I doubt seriously if you may notice any improvement of the sound after such shielding.
Eventually, you may PM me for some more details.
Just curious...What you meant about "multi meter Wizard"?
Just curious again... What it may be called that firm which it do 700£ mods for HA1 (you may specify that in a PM)
Else, (as I know so far) there is not any "complete" tutorial for HA-1 mods. And i doubt you may find such somewhere...
First (concerning my mods), I do not intend to work for the whole world just for free... or give out the best clues to other modders or mod firms to earn their moneys based on free informations from a forum or so. At least such tutorials it mean lot of work, time spent for this task, and so on. I do hope you may agree with all these aspects.
There are some tutorials and quite many informations about this device here in this thread, if you may have time to spent reading it (backwards post order).
An amount of 700$£ is not quite much for such enough high end device (however not so high end, but anyway...). Actually the HA-1 it become a true high end device after some modifications. However, far from my intentions to counter your wife`s opinion...
Sorry for you, but I have to say that the mod you mentioned (copper foil for inside shielding) is not just an important or useful modification. At least copper is in the same non magnetic metals family as aluminium. To shield against RFI/EMI radiations a better material is based on nickel, steel, and/or so (there exist out there special EMI shielding materials special designed for this purpose). However, I doubt seriously if you may notice any improvement of the sound after such shielding.
Eventually, you may PM me for some more details.
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Recently I came back to my HA1, and I finally proceeded to one of my old ideas: replacing the standard (lower) quality regulators for DAC power rails, with a better approach…I used my own regulators based on ADM7151 and LDLN015 top quality components on marked right now (best low noise figures).
Especially for analogue power rails of the DAC chip, I used my PSU design, which it include very large decoupling/filtering capacities,
The results are quite spectacular, is the only I can say.
This modification it demonstrate by itself, the enough low quality of the regulators, Oppo used in their original design of this product.
As I had to take a closer look at the AVCC regulator Oppo have designed, I discovered an even poor conception for the power supply for this very important power rail of the ESS9018 chip. Here you can see how it looks like the original Oppo design of this stage.
In my opinion, there is very strange that Oppo designers decided to use the positive rail of the symmetrical +/- PSU, designated to the analogue signal post DAC processing (+15v), to obtain the AVCC voltage. The same (wrong) concept is to be found in the Oppo`s players too (similar stage). I really cannot figure out what advantage it may have such idea… As I can see, it is only a wrong approach…
The even stranger concept is to use a quite high voltage level PSU to obtain a very low-level (regulated) voltage (+3,3v). There are here 12v, which it only goes on heat dissipation for the serial transistor of this regulator. This is really bead, especially for a quite hot closed environment; the components it have to work in this Class A HA1 device. The heat dissipation on this transistor is just huge and unnecessary.
The another negative aspect of this design is to load even more one of the symmetrical differential PSU rails of the analogue processing stage, increasing its noise and ripple, as the heat dissipation on its serial device. Why they should use a 15v rail to obtain 3,3v it is just a mystery, over that simple fact that is a wrong approach. There is also available a 7-8v DC rail, which is more appropriate to regulate it for 3,3v… This power rail it is used exclusively for the rest of the three power rails of the DAC chip, 3,3v and 1,2v, and it is an appreciable heat dissipation too, when the voltage differences are also here enough high… Well, a not very fortunate choice of the designers, is my opinion…
I have dismissed the original AVCC regulator, and powered all the DAC chip rails from 8v DC, through a pre regulator, which it lower the raw (but very well improved filtering) 8v DC to a regulated 5v. Then the regulated 5v I used to regulated further to the AVCC and VddL/R levels through my own DAC PSU, as through my regulators, to the necessary levels for the rest of the DAC power lines. As I said above, the results are spectacular. However, my biggest surprise it was to measure after many hours use a 32 deg. C (21 deg. C room temperature), for the overall enclosure temperature. The overall heat dissipation it was reduced dramatically only by dismissing this (wrong concept) Oppo`s AVCC regulator…
The Class A area it still have a higher temperature (as normal also), but now is this lowered too, and it is concentrated more for own area, while the general inside temperature it decreased dramatically. The Class A heat sinks area (the upper ventilation window) it measure for my device 45 deg. C, while the enclosure it measure 32 deg. C. Please note that I improved the enclosure`s inside ventilation using an inaudible fan to exhaust the heat in the Class A amp area, as the fresh air access from the back panel side.
Next mod step: improving the post DAC analogue signal processing...
Especially for analogue power rails of the DAC chip, I used my PSU design, which it include very large decoupling/filtering capacities,
The results are quite spectacular, is the only I can say.
This modification it demonstrate by itself, the enough low quality of the regulators, Oppo used in their original design of this product.
As I had to take a closer look at the AVCC regulator Oppo have designed, I discovered an even poor conception for the power supply for this very important power rail of the ESS9018 chip. Here you can see how it looks like the original Oppo design of this stage.
In my opinion, there is very strange that Oppo designers decided to use the positive rail of the symmetrical +/- PSU, designated to the analogue signal post DAC processing (+15v), to obtain the AVCC voltage. The same (wrong) concept is to be found in the Oppo`s players too (similar stage). I really cannot figure out what advantage it may have such idea… As I can see, it is only a wrong approach…
The even stranger concept is to use a quite high voltage level PSU to obtain a very low-level (regulated) voltage (+3,3v). There are here 12v, which it only goes on heat dissipation for the serial transistor of this regulator. This is really bead, especially for a quite hot closed environment; the components it have to work in this Class A HA1 device. The heat dissipation on this transistor is just huge and unnecessary.
The another negative aspect of this design is to load even more one of the symmetrical differential PSU rails of the analogue processing stage, increasing its noise and ripple, as the heat dissipation on its serial device. Why they should use a 15v rail to obtain 3,3v it is just a mystery, over that simple fact that is a wrong approach. There is also available a 7-8v DC rail, which is more appropriate to regulate it for 3,3v… This power rail it is used exclusively for the rest of the three power rails of the DAC chip, 3,3v and 1,2v, and it is an appreciable heat dissipation too, when the voltage differences are also here enough high… Well, a not very fortunate choice of the designers, is my opinion…
I have dismissed the original AVCC regulator, and powered all the DAC chip rails from 8v DC, through a pre regulator, which it lower the raw (but very well improved filtering) 8v DC to a regulated 5v. Then the regulated 5v I used to regulated further to the AVCC and VddL/R levels through my own DAC PSU, as through my regulators, to the necessary levels for the rest of the DAC power lines. As I said above, the results are spectacular. However, my biggest surprise it was to measure after many hours use a 32 deg. C (21 deg. C room temperature), for the overall enclosure temperature. The overall heat dissipation it was reduced dramatically only by dismissing this (wrong concept) Oppo`s AVCC regulator…
The Class A area it still have a higher temperature (as normal also), but now is this lowered too, and it is concentrated more for own area, while the general inside temperature it decreased dramatically. The Class A heat sinks area (the upper ventilation window) it measure for my device 45 deg. C, while the enclosure it measure 32 deg. C. Please note that I improved the enclosure`s inside ventilation using an inaudible fan to exhaust the heat in the Class A amp area, as the fresh air access from the back panel side.
Next mod step: improving the post DAC analogue signal processing...
Attachments
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Hi Coris nice to see you back on the HA1.
I went for the Mr Speakers ETHER , very nice headphone with the OPPO , unhappy wife...
If can repay you a little for all the interesting posts....
I tryed using contact cleaner (Caig Deoxit) red and gold.
I cleaned from the power socket and plugs.
All RCA cables + sockets. USB cables + sockets. 4pin Xlr male female, ETHER mini jacks... Every connection..In chains
I tryed it for fun as a non electrical engineer I can't do much modding. I even cleaned my S5 phone and FIIO X3II DAP. The tubes are £6 each in uk. I always move the connectors once a month but since I tried DEOXIT the sound from ONKYO PLAYER S5 source I feel 10% better sound. The FIIO X3II RCA OMG 15% + and I always clean with 70% IPA.
It has made the OPPO a new machine.. really the machine it should have been...
I was going to try on the internal connectors now you have shown how to disassemble the case.
On DIY AUDIO cleaners must be well known but if this helps you just 1% on your mods...
Good luck and keep smiling
Dave 8^ )
I went for the Mr Speakers ETHER , very nice headphone with the OPPO , unhappy wife...
If can repay you a little for all the interesting posts....
I tryed using contact cleaner (Caig Deoxit) red and gold.
I cleaned from the power socket and plugs.
All RCA cables + sockets. USB cables + sockets. 4pin Xlr male female, ETHER mini jacks... Every connection..In chains
I tryed it for fun as a non electrical engineer I can't do much modding. I even cleaned my S5 phone and FIIO X3II DAP. The tubes are £6 each in uk. I always move the connectors once a month but since I tried DEOXIT the sound from ONKYO PLAYER S5 source I feel 10% better sound. The FIIO X3II RCA OMG 15% + and I always clean with 70% IPA.
It has made the OPPO a new machine.. really the machine it should have been...
I was going to try on the internal connectors now you have shown how to disassemble the case.
On DIY AUDIO cleaners must be well known but if this helps you just 1% on your mods...
Good luck and keep smiling
Dave 8^ )
Hello all,
As I was pleased with the first attempt to clean all my connections and cables with Deoxit. Following Coris,s advice I stripped down my OPPO HA1.
I have removed all the push fit connectors wiped clean the pins with IPA, applied deoxit and ran them in and out for a cleaner contact. They are just cheap wire crimps onto plated pins. I had to strip off the small pcb to reach the last push fit connector.
Be very careful with the small ribbon cables, they are very delicate.
100% red deoxit 1 day. My word what a difference a day makes. The highs are cleaner, the bass has more grunt but the back ground has opened up and give more hidden detail to my aging ears.
This isn't a huge jump in fidelity like a coris Mod. But bringing the connections back to factory fresh or as near to soldered as possible.
£7 bargin.
I may leave it a while to really remove the crap, re strip and clean any dirt oxide off.
Then apply gold Deoxit to maintain it.
This could be used on any Dac Amp were easy access is available. But please as Coris mentions use and ESD wrist strap and place any items in a silver ESD BAG.
Connect the power lead but turn off the power for a good earth. Be safe...
I hope this helps
Kind regards
Dave
As I was pleased with the first attempt to clean all my connections and cables with Deoxit. Following Coris,s advice I stripped down my OPPO HA1.
I have removed all the push fit connectors wiped clean the pins with IPA, applied deoxit and ran them in and out for a cleaner contact. They are just cheap wire crimps onto plated pins. I had to strip off the small pcb to reach the last push fit connector.
Be very careful with the small ribbon cables, they are very delicate.
100% red deoxit 1 day. My word what a difference a day makes. The highs are cleaner, the bass has more grunt but the back ground has opened up and give more hidden detail to my aging ears.
This isn't a huge jump in fidelity like a coris Mod. But bringing the connections back to factory fresh or as near to soldered as possible.
£7 bargin.
I may leave it a while to really remove the crap, re strip and clean any dirt oxide off.
Then apply gold Deoxit to maintain it.
This could be used on any Dac Amp were easy access is available. But please as Coris mentions use and ESD wrist strap and place any items in a silver ESD BAG.
Connect the power lead but turn off the power for a good earth. Be safe...
I hope this helps
Kind regards
Dave
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