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Old 28th November 2005, 06:22 PM   #1
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Default Best t-amp capacitors?

I want to change the following caps on my t-amp:

C3,C4 input coupling caps
c10 power supply?
caps on loudspeaker outputs.

These have already been replaced with the following capacitors.

cheap 4.3uF input coupling caps
cheap 2200uf power supply? (c10)
5% tolerence 0.1uF polyprop accross outputs

The changes I have made so far have made a fundamental improvement to the sound. Bass weight, dynamics, midrange clarity etc. much improved.

I have a second t-amp in need of tweeking... What would the best possible caps be? Please let me know if there's anything else easy I can do to improve things further. I want to keep it it it's cute case, as I will build a charlize at some point soon.

Cheers for all the help so far.
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Old 28th November 2005, 06:32 PM   #2
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Hi sharpi 31 ,
the problem is the coupling caps cost more than the T-Amp
as example Mundorf Silver/Gold and are very hard to solder in
a good compromise are Black Gate N good sounding and not so big !


Greetings from Germany

Jrgen
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Old 28th November 2005, 06:42 PM   #3
Pano is offline Pano  United States
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This is an important subject, changing the caps on the T-amp can make worlds of difference.

Use good quality film caps on the inputs. Blackgate also work well and are very small. 2.2uF is as large as you should go. If your speakers don't play down below about 40Hz, you can use 1uF.

So far, there has been no "definitive" input cap chosen.
Generally speaking, you don't want a cap in this position that is known to be "bright".

How did you get 2200uF in place of C10? Did you solder it to the bottom of the board? For C10, I like Panasonic FM series 680uF. They are hard to find in the UK, so try FC series.

There hasn't been much work done with the terminal output caps. More needs to be done here. These caps are to attenuate RF on the speaker lines. ~600K-3MHz

I'd love to see this thread expand. The caps in this amp can really change the sound, it would be nice to hear what others have found. So far the results are scattered around the forum.

Post your thoughts here!
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Old 28th November 2005, 06:44 PM   #4
BWRX is offline BWRX  United States
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I'm building 4 amp3's which I'll be using to test a couple different types of input caps. I've got 2.7uF Sonicaps, 2.7uF Auricaps on the way, and will probably also audition the supplied 3.3uF Panasonic FC electrolytics as well. I have many hours of listening with the supplied 2.2uF ceramic caps and they sound just fine to me.

The first amp3 kits from Jan used 25V 330uF Nichicon HE supply caps on board. The latest kits come with 25V 470uF Panasonic FM supply caps. Don't know how that will affect the sound, if at all, but the FMs should have slightly less ESR than the HEs. I'm sure Panasonic FCs would also work well here although they do cost a little more.

I haven't tinkered with the caps in the output filter because the on board surface mount caps do a good job of filtering and take up much less space than a quality propylene cap. The amp3 also uses 0.1uF differential output caps right next to the outputs on the PCB so there really isn't a need for one across the binding posts, although you don't have to install the ceramic caps on the PCB and could use a polypro across the outputs instead.

The thing about modding these little guys is that a pair of good quality caps can cost more than the kits themselves! Plus they sound damn good "stock" which it makes it even harder to justify the price...

Edit: It looks like this will be a popular topic
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Old 28th November 2005, 06:59 PM   #5
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The 2200uF cap is in one of the battery compartments ;-)

I actually connected it in parallel with the existing c10 because I was worried about moving the cap so far from the chip.

Please advise me what would be best.

Here's a weird observation:

I got good 5% polyprop 0.1uF caps to replace those on the speaker outputs. The ones I bought were huge (too big to fit inside the amp) so I connected them in parallel with my speaker leads, at the spring clip outputs.

I then tried the caps in parallel with the speaker leads but at the speaker end. I swear it sounded better! Just a bit sweeter...

I'm not jumping to conclusion though - the speakers have good screw down terminals that definitely make a better connection than at the amp.

Let me know if i'm going mad. I have a naim cdp into tweeked t-amp into loth x bs1's.
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Old 28th November 2005, 07:43 PM   #6
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I have just finished numbering the parts on the T Amp board, think it's right?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg t amp cct.jpg (98.2 KB, 4966 views)
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Old 28th November 2005, 08:16 PM   #7
edge540 is offline edge540  France
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Just an idee
On my Charlize, is it possible to simply remove the inputs caps? Don't be affraid
I think about it because my tube pramp has 2.7F output caps.
Inputs caps on charlize are here to eliminate DC voltage isnt' it?
If the outputs preamp have caps it's coudn't be a problem?

What another caps could be changing on charlize?
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Old 28th November 2005, 09:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by edge540
Just an idee
On my Charlize, is it possible to simply remove the inputs caps? Don't be affraid
I think about it because my tube pramp has 2.7F output caps.
Inputs caps on charlize are here to eliminate DC voltage isnt' it?
If the outputs preamp have caps it's coudn't be a problem?

What another caps could be changing on charlize?

I believe the imput caps are there because the TA2020 chip inherently has a DC bias on the input. Therefore the input caps are NEEDED, not to block DC form going in, but to block it from "going out", so to speak.
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Old 28th November 2005, 10:03 PM   #9
Pano is offline Pano  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by edge540
is it possible to simply remove the inputs caps? Don't be affraid
NO it is NOT, alas.
This has been covered elsewhere. See this post.
DC blocking at input
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Old 28th November 2005, 10:07 PM   #10
Pano is offline Pano  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by BWRX
I'm building 4 amp3's which I'll be using to test a couple different types of input caps.
Good project, Brian! I have been meaning to do the same thing for months, might get around to it soon. I will use the same amp, but with a multi-pole switch to test different caps. Should be interesting.

I gets lots of email on the subject.
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