I'm in the process of "biamping" my entire surround system and so am in the market for some cheap, high quality class-D amps (those two design goals are not necessarily mutually exclusive!). I've been reading lots of datasheets, ordering a few to play with off aliexpress and then performing measurements as I go along.
I've currently got a "Yuanjing" TAS5630 amp from SHENZHEN CAIZHIXING ELECTRONIC CO.,LTD and, after a single mod, I am very happy with it. And the best part is that it only costs $60!
Free Shipping TAS5630 300W+300W class d amplifier digit amplifier board We are the manufacturer on Aliexpress.com
The design is straight from the datasheet -- even the PCB layout is similar. AFAICT, all the main resistor, cap and inductor values are as recommended. The TAS5630 seems to perform better than some other units I've tried based on chips like the TDA7498, TDA8920 etc. They've also added an OP1632 front-end, so you could use it fully differentially. This all means very good audio performance.
There are a few issues (most easily fixed):
* Noisy out the box.
* One component only rated to 40V, not 50V supply that TAS5630 is designed to handle.
* "click and pop" at turnon/turnoff (doesn't bother me).
When I initially turned it on, the output was very noisy... so bad that I was about to bin it as a DOA dud. There was a lound buzzing that decreased when it was loaded. This is different from the hissing noise associated with cheap class-D designs, so I decided to look a little closer... A bit of sleuthing revealed that the supplied 12V power supply circuit (for OP1632 and TAS5630 GVDD) had a very noisy 10.8V output, resulting in sub-optimal performance.
The fix is simple: replace the LM2575-12 regulator with a LM2575-15 device.
Explanation:
The LM2575 chip steps the main supply down to an intermediate voltage before a linear regulator (LM317) cleans it for use by the input differential amplifiers and TAS5630. Generally, this is a nice design for an efficient, low noise supply. But if the intermediate rail is at 12V (as the supplied LM2575-12 regulates), then the linear regulator is useless as it, too, is trying to regulate to 12V. So you get the minimum forward drop across the LM317 and about 10.8V into the highly sensitive amplifier modules. Crucially, this results in no linear regulation and a very noisy output, with the LM2575's switching breaking into the audio path.
Replacing the LM2575-12 with a drop-in LM2575-15, 15V switching regulator, means that there's 3V headroom for the LM317 linear regulator -- sufficiently higher than its specified 2V forward drop. I have tested this fix on my unit and it has solved this problem. I can't detect any switching regulator noise in the output now. The frequency response is flat and THD+N below my measurable limits.
There are some unpopulated pads on the board for a 12V fan header (regulator is already populated), a couple of LED indicators, reset switch and a "shutdown" header. There're also solder jumper options for PBTL (jumpers pre-installed for two-channel BTL).
The only outstanding issue is that there're some clicks and pops on power-up&down. The TAS5630 itself is pop-free. The problem seems to originate with the OP1632 - TAS5630 interface. The OP1632 is supplied from afore-mentioned single rail 12V supply. It's biased to half the supply (6V). This, of course, changes as the rail ramps up/down. The TAS5630 doesn't shutdown 'till the rail gets to about 9V so there's some 3V change here before the output mutes. I don't care since the amps will be powered 24/7 in my application.
Further, I should point out that the National LM2575 is only specified to 40V input. It is being used outside its maximum ratings if a 50V supply is employed. I only use a 36V supply, so this is fine for me. But if you're trying to squeeze all 600W out of this module, you're gonna have a bad time.
For my application, I'm very happy with it and can recommend this module to anyone looking for a low-cost high-performance class-D unit.
I've currently got a "Yuanjing" TAS5630 amp from SHENZHEN CAIZHIXING ELECTRONIC CO.,LTD and, after a single mod, I am very happy with it. And the best part is that it only costs $60!
Free Shipping TAS5630 300W+300W class d amplifier digit amplifier board We are the manufacturer on Aliexpress.com
The design is straight from the datasheet -- even the PCB layout is similar. AFAICT, all the main resistor, cap and inductor values are as recommended. The TAS5630 seems to perform better than some other units I've tried based on chips like the TDA7498, TDA8920 etc. They've also added an OP1632 front-end, so you could use it fully differentially. This all means very good audio performance.
There are a few issues (most easily fixed):
* Noisy out the box.
* One component only rated to 40V, not 50V supply that TAS5630 is designed to handle.
* "click and pop" at turnon/turnoff (doesn't bother me).
When I initially turned it on, the output was very noisy... so bad that I was about to bin it as a DOA dud. There was a lound buzzing that decreased when it was loaded. This is different from the hissing noise associated with cheap class-D designs, so I decided to look a little closer... A bit of sleuthing revealed that the supplied 12V power supply circuit (for OP1632 and TAS5630 GVDD) had a very noisy 10.8V output, resulting in sub-optimal performance.
The fix is simple: replace the LM2575-12 regulator with a LM2575-15 device.
Explanation:
The LM2575 chip steps the main supply down to an intermediate voltage before a linear regulator (LM317) cleans it for use by the input differential amplifiers and TAS5630. Generally, this is a nice design for an efficient, low noise supply. But if the intermediate rail is at 12V (as the supplied LM2575-12 regulates), then the linear regulator is useless as it, too, is trying to regulate to 12V. So you get the minimum forward drop across the LM317 and about 10.8V into the highly sensitive amplifier modules. Crucially, this results in no linear regulation and a very noisy output, with the LM2575's switching breaking into the audio path.
Replacing the LM2575-12 with a drop-in LM2575-15, 15V switching regulator, means that there's 3V headroom for the LM317 linear regulator -- sufficiently higher than its specified 2V forward drop. I have tested this fix on my unit and it has solved this problem. I can't detect any switching regulator noise in the output now. The frequency response is flat and THD+N below my measurable limits.
There are some unpopulated pads on the board for a 12V fan header (regulator is already populated), a couple of LED indicators, reset switch and a "shutdown" header. There're also solder jumper options for PBTL (jumpers pre-installed for two-channel BTL).
The only outstanding issue is that there're some clicks and pops on power-up&down. The TAS5630 itself is pop-free. The problem seems to originate with the OP1632 - TAS5630 interface. The OP1632 is supplied from afore-mentioned single rail 12V supply. It's biased to half the supply (6V). This, of course, changes as the rail ramps up/down. The TAS5630 doesn't shutdown 'till the rail gets to about 9V so there's some 3V change here before the output mutes. I don't care since the amps will be powered 24/7 in my application.
Further, I should point out that the National LM2575 is only specified to 40V input. It is being used outside its maximum ratings if a 50V supply is employed. I only use a 36V supply, so this is fine for me. But if you're trying to squeeze all 600W out of this module, you're gonna have a bad time.
For my application, I'm very happy with it and can recommend this module to anyone looking for a low-cost high-performance class-D unit.
Interesting post - especially as I've just ordered one of these 
If you look at the EVM schematic for the TAS5630, you'll notice two things - one is that the switching reg is indeed a 15V version and the other is that it specs the TL2575HV part which has a 57V max. input voltage.
It seems that it's just a bad copy job on behalf of the manufacturer of this module rather than anything seriously wrong with the design
/U.
If you look at the EVM schematic for the TAS5630, you'll notice two things - one is that the switching reg is indeed a 15V version and the other is that it specs the TL2575HV part which has a 57V max. input voltage.
It seems that it's just a bad copy job on behalf of the manufacturer of this module rather than anything seriously wrong with the design
/U.
Ha, I hadn't even thought to check the EVM schematic. It seems an obvious thing to do, in retrospect! Good sleuthing on your part!
Yeah, this was my conclusion too. At $60, it strikes me as a pretty good deal.It seems that it's just a bad copy job on behalf of the manufacturer of this module rather than anything seriously wrong with the design
/U.
Hi,
An alternative to the Yuanjing TAS5630 amp is from Sure HIfi, I bought a similar one based on the same chipset, the different is it is based on 1*TAS5630 per channel giving 600W/channel based into 4 ohm load. This is based on the manufacturing spec., with Vcc=36Vdc. BTW I did not check the this power output. The amp from Sure Hi-Fi does not suffer from noisy output. I am happy with the board I bought, I have bought other D class amp from them before based on TK2050 chipset.
If the use want 2*300watts, similar to model from Yuanjing then look no further, see
below:
2 X 300W Class D Audio Amplifier Combo KIT W 36V 350W Power Supply TAS5630 | eBay
The price $90 is quite good considering a power supply is included.
An alternative to the Yuanjing TAS5630 amp is from Sure HIfi, I bought a similar one based on the same chipset, the different is it is based on 1*TAS5630 per channel giving 600W/channel based into 4 ohm load. This is based on the manufacturing spec., with Vcc=36Vdc. BTW I did not check the this power output. The amp from Sure Hi-Fi does not suffer from noisy output. I am happy with the board I bought, I have bought other D class amp from them before based on TK2050 chipset.
If the use want 2*300watts, similar to model from Yuanjing then look no further, see
below:
2 X 300W Class D Audio Amplifier Combo KIT W 36V 350W Power Supply TAS5630 | eBay
The price $90 is quite good considering a power supply is included.
Yeah, I popped the heatsink off and did check that. I can confirm that it's a "b" version in the PHD package. Btw, there's no paste, only a silicon pad for thermal coupling.
I think you'll find that, even in PBTL mode, with a 36V supply, you'll only do 175W into 4 ohms. See datasheet on page 15.
Yeah, that's not a bad price. My concern with this design was with the fans in the PSU and on the amp module. If you own one of these, can you give an indication of how often the fan turns on in the PSU (it's supposed to stay off until it gets hot) and also if the unit on the amp module itself stays off until it's needed, or if it's always on with fan speed adjustment etc?
I'm after a silent amp solution and was looking towards "laptop" like power bricks and the Yuanjing amp which has deeper, wider-spaced heatsink fins, which will do better for convection cooling. In all my playing with it, it's never become more than warm to the touch. But I guess I'm using it well below it's design parameters (more like 100W/chan, rather than 300W).
sinewave samplestore is also a good place to look.
SINEWAVE SAMPLE STORE - Small Orders Online Store, Hot Selling supply price definition,module board,supply power and more on Aliexpress.com
SINEWAVE SAMPLE STORE - Small Orders Online Store, Hot Selling supply price definition,module board,supply power and more on Aliexpress.com
I've found a shortcut if you're not needing to run at 50V (which needs to HV regulator). Then you can just lift the FB pin on the existing installed 12V SMPS regulator, and install a 2.2k resistor in series. That will create 12V on the FB pin when the output is ~16.5V. Works beautifully and means you don't need to replace the entire SMD.Got my board today and (as expected) it's got the wrong regulator on
/U.
This worried me too initially. I believe there's an error on the silkscreen. When wired for PBTL, it's actually set for 2 chan BTL. You can check the 3 "Mode" pins to confirm, and I also traced the four input channels tracks (A, B, C, D) and they are connected as expected for 2 input differential BTL.
Reducing the gain is also possible.
The TAS5630 has, nominally, a gain of 23dB. The differential op-amps are configured for 10k feedback, with 2.2k input, for an additional gain of about 4.5.
For me, I wanted about 23dB gain, so I swapped the four 10k feedback resistors with 2k2. Works great.
The TAS5630 has, nominally, a gain of 23dB. The differential op-amps are configured for 10k feedback, with 2.2k input, for an additional gain of about 4.5.
For me, I wanted about 23dB gain, so I swapped the four 10k feedback resistors with 2k2. Works great.
Actually, open jumper designates mode. So the the silkscreen is right after all. If you want to switch mode just make it so the PBTL single spot is vacant. (transfer the jumpers to the other side.) I got the info from this site; http://classdaudio.com/documents/TI_Amp_Connections.pdf .
. If you want to switch mode just make it so the PBTL single spot is vacant. (transfer the jumpers to the other side.) I got the info from this site; http://classdaudio.com/documents/TI_Amp_Connections.pdf .
I bought one of these to power a pair of PA speakers. Same problem with the wrong regulator, swapped it as per your post.
It's otherwise a very quiet and has a lot of headroom. I'm using a cheap 48V 8.3A SMPS and it works well. Pops on startup and shutdown are present but not objectionable. No hum,rustles or bumps.
I've got a couple TPA 3116 amps and this is as good as and louder
It's otherwise a very quiet and has a lot of headroom. I'm using a cheap 48V 8.3A SMPS and it works well. Pops on startup and shutdown are present but not objectionable. No hum,rustles or bumps.
I've got a couple TPA 3116 amps and this is as good as and louder
I'm considering buying one of the TAS5630 boards and have had my eye on them for awhile. These seems to be comparable to IRS2092 class-D amps, with perhaps slightly less power and slightly worse distortion specs. But I am interested in the TI chip and would like to give it a try. The power on/off pop is a PITA and it would be nice to find a board that uses a symmetrical supply for the pre-amp op-amp. I wonder if it could be completely bypassed if no gain is needed.... any thoughts on that? If the op-amp is socketed, you could just remove it and connect the audio input right into the output pin socket.
Feedback after 2 years of service
Just some quick feedback: five of these amps have been in continuous service in my living room for over 2 years now, as the main drivers for a 5-ch bi-amped surround system. And I'm still fairly happy with them. No failures or reliability issues of any kind yet, never a problem with heat, noise etc. In general, I've been happy with my purchase.
In retrospect, for those considering using class-D for bi-amping, I'm starting to think that class-AB might be better for the tweeters. I need to do a longer-term side-by-side test, but a recent comparison with a cheapo TDA7294-based amp had me thinking it was nicer sounding. The class-D solution is great for bass and mids, though. It's small, compact and efficient. Maybe the TAS5630B switching frequency is just a bit slow?
Just some quick feedback: five of these amps have been in continuous service in my living room for over 2 years now, as the main drivers for a 5-ch bi-amped surround system. And I'm still fairly happy with them. No failures or reliability issues of any kind yet, never a problem with heat, noise etc. In general, I've been happy with my purchase.
In retrospect, for those considering using class-D for bi-amping, I'm starting to think that class-AB might be better for the tweeters. I need to do a longer-term side-by-side test, but a recent comparison with a cheapo TDA7294-based amp had me thinking it was nicer sounding. The class-D solution is great for bass and mids, though. It's small, compact and efficient. Maybe the TAS5630B switching frequency is just a bit slow?
Interesting idea... I don't actually need any gain there, either. They're not socketed in this implementation, but a bit of soldering and a wire bridge seems a simple enough mod.
Please feedback if you do try it. I'm happy enough with my system at the moment and I'm not really tempted yet to rip it all apart to try this out.
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