TPA3116D2 Amp

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i have a danzz-board i want to use for a single 4 ohm subwoofer.
i did the following mods so far:

- removed input caps on the left input side, shorted their pads to ground and bridged the ouput terminals to get pbtl
- switched the input decoupling caps on the right side to 3.3 uF mkp caps
- switched the 1000 uF power caps to 220 uF low esr caps and added 100 nF and 1 nF film caps on the bottom side of the board.

now i have a mono board with better bass-response than stock form.
so far so good.
but the output filters are not ideal (all original parts still on the board, but in parallel).
the active filter i use in front of the board cuts frequencies above ~100Hz.
does it make sense to change the ouput filters?
what would the reasonable values be in my case?

Nice work! Can you post photos? There were a bunch of posts maybe a month ago on optimal filters. The filter selection really are only important up in the HF circa 18khz and above. You won't detect anything below 100Hz. The only thing I would do is upgrade the coils to higher current name brand ones since you are running PBTL which has double the current. Probably 10uH is fine but pick ones with high sat values in the 10amp range. Like Coilcrafts.
 
Nice work! Can you post photos? There were a bunch of posts maybe a month ago on optimal filters. The filter selection really are only important up in the HF circa 18khz and above. You won't detect anything below 100Hz. The only thing I would do is upgrade the coils to higher current name brand ones since you are running PBTL which has double the current. Probably 10uH is fine but pick ones with high sat values in the 10amp range. Like Coilcrafts.

Thanks for the reply.
I´ll think about the inductor-mod next time i order parts.
I´m a bit afraid of soldering the smd-inductors.

I´ll take a photo tomorrow when i´m back home.
But be aware of eye-cancer as the board is quite ugly.
 
The Danzz board can sound pretty good stock if you happened to receive quality power supply caps. That seems to be the wildcard weak link. Often times just changing those two caps yields substantial improvements. Swap with quality Panasonic FC or FM caps and OSCON SEPF caps if you don't mind spending $2/ea on the caps. Well worth it IMO.

what kind of caps were reported?
I had nichicon 1000uF 25V on my danzz-board.
 
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The curious thing is that at least one member reported that his Pass amp (forgot the type) was beaten by a TPA3116 amp...

I have been wanting to build the ACA and have most parts for it. I am a bit concerned with the 5 watt max though which, if you don't have 95dB+ sensitive speakers, is not going to sound terribly good. I finally have some tractrix horns that have been 'synergized' (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/261427-presenting-trynergy-full-range-tractrix-synergy.html)and are 108dB sensitive from 300Hz to 15kHz but only 96dB from 100Hz to 300Hz. They may prove suitable for the ACA now.

@Rewind: was your TPA3116D2 modified or stock? If stock, it doesn't surprise me. But a hot-rodded one with OSCON's, upgraded bootstrap caps, bootstrap snubbers in place, I would find very surprising that it would lose to the ACA. On sheer dynamics and headroom with low THD alone, the TPA3116 is on top.

Edit: never mind, just found your post that I missed earlier...

I am using the black/blue board from the example in the TPA3116D2 wiki. I have many mods. A panasonic 330uF power cap, four bourns inductors 10uH, four Mundorf 3.3uF input caps for better bass and a little cleaner signal (no input trafo yet), four X7R 220uF, snubber mod, and I set it to the lowest gain setting. I used a no name led light brick from ebay at 19.5V and 4.xxA. I found the PCB on ebay, search for "5w amplifier pcb". It was SOLD OUT on diyaudio for some strange reason. Cost 10 euro, then I stuffed it myself, but there are also assembled ones . Just look for it. It does not use the pass name for legal issues.
But I think you should stuff it yourself and get known quality components. Plus you will learn a lot which was the intention of Nelson Pass.
 
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The Danzz board can sound pretty good stock if you happened to receive quality power supply caps. That seems to be the wildcard weak link. Often times just changing those two caps yields substantial improvements. Swap with quality Panasonic FC or FM caps and OSCON SEPF caps if you don't mind spending $2/ea on the caps. Well worth it IMO.

Cool. Thanks

That is easy enough.
 
Hi guys,

First of all, this is really a great thread about this class-d amps!
Actually I didn't read the whole thread, so maybe my questions were answered already. :(

A few weeks ago I ordered this 2.1amp board from YJ on ebay, which was delivered for appx. a week ago. TPA3116 2.1CH 2*50W+100W Amp Kit Amplifier Assembled Board | eBay

I first tested this board with a ps from my old netbook that have 19v and 1 or 2a. I already ordered a meanwell 24V-75Watt supply for further testing.
On the left and right channel, I connected my 8ohm Visaton FRS5 and FRS8 speakers on after the other.
In my opinion, this amps really have a good performance on this little speakers.

But I experienced some problems, or let me say "I think that it were some problems" :)

As I heard some music and played around with the bass. trouble and volume control, I realised that the treble and bass doesn't really have any influence on the left and right channels. So in my opinion there wasn't any great effect on the sound. Then I connected my 8ohm TangBand W8-670 subwoofer to the sub channel. There I heard some influence of the bass control, the treble and also the volume control. So I disconnected the speakers on the left and right channel and only let my subwoofer connected to the sub out.

It seems that the subwoofer played frequencys until I guess 3000hz, as I was also able to hear the "Windows bing". When I turn the bass control, the subwoofer seem to play more or less "loud" so for me this is kind of a volume knob.

I created some sine-wave signals with wavgen and also created a sweep from 30hz-1000hz and for me it sounds like the volume from 30 to 1000hz on the subwoofer is nearly the same. Am I missing the 72hz 12db low pass filter?

Next problem is, that on some frequencies at around 110hz and 315hz the subwoofer sounds very scrappy and like he is defect. As I measured the output signal on the channels left, right and sub with my scope, I saw that on the right and left channel my input sine-wave with a frequency of 100hz is also a 100hz signal on the output.

But on the subwoofer out, it seems like the 100hz signal ist modulated with a 100khz or more signal?

Is it possible that on the sub-amp something is populated wrong? maybe a wrong capacitor or resistor e.g.? And is it also possible that I have killed the board as I unfortunately not always any load to the outs?

I hope you can understand my "german" english :)
Thanks in advance!
http://www.ebay.de/itm/TPA3116-2-1C...2966196?pt=Steckverbinder&hash=item2c82cbf734
 
I just received my new toy ;)
It seems that on new version board I have Nichicon caps.

MOJ_zps0c55791d.jpg
Still waiting for mine, it has been over 3 weeks already lol. I hope I get the same version
 
Founder of XSA-Labs
Joined 2012
Paid Member
Hi guys,

First of all, this is really a great thread about this class-d amps!
Actually I didn't read the whole thread, so maybe my questions were answered already. :(

A few weeks ago I ordered this 2.1amp board from YJ on ebay, which was delivered for appx. a week ago. TPA3116 2.1CH 2*50W+100W Amp Kit Amplifier Assembled Board | eBay

I first tested this board with a ps from my old netbook that have 19v and 1 or 2a. I already ordered a meanwell 24V-75Watt supply for further testing.
On the left and right channel, I connected my 8ohm Visaton FRS5 and FRS8 speakers on after the other.
In my opinion, this amps really have a good performance on this little speakers.

But I experienced some problems, or let me say "I think that it were some problems" :)

As I heard some music and played around with the bass. trouble and volume control, I realised that the treble and bass doesn't really have any influence on the left and right channels. So in my opinion there wasn't any great effect on the sound. Then I connected my 8ohm TangBand W8-670 subwoofer to the sub channel. There I heard some influence of the bass control, the treble and also the volume control. So I disconnected the speakers on the left and right channel and only let my subwoofer connected to the sub out.

It seems that the subwoofer played frequencys until I guess 3000hz, as I was also able to hear the "Windows bing". When I turn the bass control, the subwoofer seem to play more or less "loud" so for me this is kind of a volume knob.

I created some sine-wave signals with wavgen and also created a sweep from 30hz-1000hz and for me it sounds like the volume from 30 to 1000hz on the subwoofer is nearly the same. Am I missing the 72hz 12db low pass filter?

Next problem is, that on some frequencies at around 110hz and 315hz the subwoofer sounds very scrappy and like he is defect. As I measured the output signal on the channels left, right and sub with my scope, I saw that on the right and left channel my input sine-wave with a frequency of 100hz is also a 100hz signal on the output.

But on the subwoofer out, it seems like the 100hz signal ist modulated with a 100khz or more signal?

Is it possible that on the sub-amp something is populated wrong? maybe a wrong capacitor or resistor e.g.? And is it also possible that I have killed the board as I unfortunately not always any load to the outs?

I hope you can understand my "german" english :)
Thanks in advance!
http://www.ebay.de/itm/TPA3116-2-1C...2966196?pt=Steckverbinder&hash=item2c82cbf734

I think you may be expecting a crossover for the stereo vs the sub. The setup is for the stereo to be operated full range with only volume adjustment. The sub is L+R mixed mono with a low pass filter of approximately 300 Hz range. The "bass" knob controls sub volume and the "treble" knob controls the slope of the low pass filter which indirectly affects the location of the low pass frequency. It will be very apparent what the knobs do if you take a frequency response spectrum. Having said that, it an work well in a FAST system with a sub low pass freq of 350Hz or so. It is not meant for non directional sub 100Hz bass.

Your other problem may be related to an incorrect master/slave sync between the stereo amp and the sub amp. Pin 16 of the master needs to drive pin 16 of the slave (sub). Many manufacturers put an incorrect resistor and cap here and insufficient clock signal goes through. Hence the slave is free running and switching freq is not stable. This can be fixed with change to correct resistor. I believe default is 100k between. Change to 47k and and it should fix things. This may be the cause of what sounds like hash when you play 100Hz.

Look at the EVM data sheet. It has correct resistor and caps for master/slave. Main data sheet may have typo which all manufacturers build to, incorrectly.
 
The curious thing is that at least one member reported that his Pass amp (forgot the type) was beaten by a TPA3116 amp...

Yep, that was me. See my post 4787. The odd thing is that Rewind says in his post "Since the TPA3116D2 has pretty bad mids and treble in comparison". This was the very area that I found the 3116 superior to the Mini Aleph (and Tubelab SSE we compared at the same time).

I know the camp amp and Mini Aleph are different amps but, as I understand, have similar origins.

Ah well as they say YMMV.
 
I think you may be expecting a crossover for the stereo vs the sub. The setup is for the stereo to be operated full range with only volume adjustment. The sub is L+R mixed mono with a low pass filter of approximately 300 Hz range. The "bass" knob controls sub volume and the "treble" knob controls the slope of the low pass filter which indirectly affects the location of the low pass frequency. It will be very apparent what the knobs do if you take a frequency response spectrum. Having said that, it an work well in a FAST system with a sub low pass freq of 350Hz or so. It is not meant for non directional sub 100Hz bass.

Your other problem may be related to an incorrect master/slave sync between the stereo amp and the sub amp. Pin 16 of the master needs to drive pin 16 of the slave (sub). Many manufacturers put an incorrect resistor and cap here and insufficient clock signal goes through. Hence the slave is free running and switching freq is not stable. This can be fixed with change to correct resistor. I believe default is 100k between. Change to 47k and and it should fix things. This may be the cause of what sounds like hash when you play 100Hz.

Look at the EVM data sheet. It has correct resistor and caps for master/slave. Main data sheet may have typo which all manufacturers build to, incorrectly.

Thanks for your feedback!
I have already read that it is a fullrange signal for the master amp, but what was new to me is that the treble and bass controls don't have any influence on that incoming fullrange signal. I saw some selfdrawn schematic of this board on another forum and thats why I was confused. I will try to set my scope to fft mode again to see the effects. Last time the only thing I saw was noise :/

Then I will try to locate the master and slave sync signal and check the resistors value. That's the hint I was looking for ;) Thanks!

In case the subchannel is really low pass filtered that way, I will modify the sub input to vary the low pass freq.

I will keep you informed ;)
Thanks again.
 
Yep, that was me. See my post 4787. The odd thing is that Rewind says in his post "Since the TPA3116D2 has pretty bad mids and treble in comparison". This was the very area that I found the 3116 superior to the Mini Aleph (and Tubelab SSE we compared at the same time).

I know the camp amp and Mini Aleph are different amps but, as I understand, have similar origins.

Ah well as they say YMMV.

I did the gf test and she was really impressed by the new sound of the camp amp after living with the tpa3116d2 for a time. She is spoiled with a 2A3 tube amp from before. Here are some pics.

Maybe we are just going for a different sound. The treble and mids of my tpa does not have this glowing warmth but is cold and harsh and dead clinical and clean, but at the same time the analog camp amp sounds more alive. If I was looking for sound artifacts in some thriller movie, I would use the tpa, If I was going to enjoy music, I would use the ACA. The sound of the ACA actually reminds me of Mcintosh solide state class A amps, although limited with such low output (and at max volume it sounds a bit strained).
 

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Maybe we are just going for a different sound. The treble and mids of my tpa does not have this glowing warmth but is cold and harsh and dead clinical and clean, but at the same time the analog camp amp sounds more alive. If I was looking for sound artifacts in some thriller movie, I would use the tpa, If I was going to enjoy music, I would use the ACA. The sound of the ACA actually reminds me of Mcintosh solide state class A amps, although limited with such low output (and at max volume it sounds a bit strained).

Yes, thats possible too.

Friend and I have started talking about the 3116 amps as having "sparkle", the top end is definitely more lively. But I wouldn't say dead in any way, has more life, space and, during our comparison, was the amp of choice for further listening.

Possible the speakers we were using also influenced listening impressions tho the Mark Audio have sparkle of their own I have yet to hear in any other driver.

Anyhow all comparisons are good to hear about and all perfectly valid.
 
I did the gf test and she was really impressed by the new sound of the camp amp after living with the tpa3116d2 for a time. She is spoiled with a 2A3 tube amp from before. Here are some pics.

Maybe we are just going for a different sound. The treble and mids of my tpa does not have this glowing warmth but is cold and harsh and dead clinical and clean, but at the same time the analog camp amp sounds more alive. If I was looking for sound artifacts in some thriller movie, I would use the tpa, If I was going to enjoy music, I would use the ACA. The sound of the ACA actually reminds me of Mcintosh solide state class A amps, although limited with such low output (and at max volume it sounds a bit strained).

I REALLY like my Sure Electronics TPA3116's sound. I used to own Aleph 3 years ago which is still my all time favorite amp and although I cannot make direct comparison now, as far as I remember the Sure comes very close to Aleph 3.

I would like to hear how Sure board holds up against your ACA.