You might find some suggestions here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/261540-troubleshooting-tpa3116-amp-no-sound-2.html
If I remembered correctly, this is the "Weiner" board that xrk is using. Check with him, he probably know how to connect those pins.
Regards,
I am along-time lurker but nubie here. Putting together a simple and inexpensive HTPC system for TV in a small den. I will be driving this with an Rasberry Pi and DAC and using Volumio. I have built the speakers and ordered an audiobah green board and two of these little cases for a simple build with reasonable WAF.
Tender Wooden Care
My question is this. Does anyone have an opinion whether a stepped pot such as the ALPS 50KAX2 is worth the extra cost vs a standard 50K stereo pot from parts express?
Conversely is the Valab stepped pot, at twice the price of the Alps, a worthwhile improvement? At $30 with ship its almost the price of the amp.
Tender Wooden Care
My question is this. Does anyone have an opinion whether a stepped pot such as the ALPS 50KAX2 is worth the extra cost vs a standard 50K stereo pot from parts express?
Conversely is the Valab stepped pot, at twice the price of the Alps, a worthwhile improvement? At $30 with ship its almost the price of the amp.
Check in Google for pull up/resistor,
In this case for shuting down the IC you Will have to use a pull down resistor to pull to low the sd pin. Conect a piece of wire to sd pin and conect it to a switch with a 10k resistor in between, on the other side of the switch a wire to the GND pin. When you active the switch you Will pull a low sígnal to the sd pin, this Will shutdown the IC, this is good If you are using a batery and want to avoid any on/of pop.
If what you want to do, is to disable the outputs, make the amp go to mute, Then do the oposite. Just Think that the normal state of the sd pin is high, so you take the high from the sd pin, and conect it to a switch , on the other side, to mute pin with a resistor in the middle. In this case when you connect the switch Will pull a high sígnal to mute pin, and this Will disable the outputs.
If Im wrong please correct me, before eh blows up the amp!!!
I used to work at a large corp with the fellow who makes those boxes. I did a search and thought I was responding to two threads rather than crashing into this once twice. Sorry for being so clumsy.
Was trying to figure out a good low cost pot as I might build 3 or 4 of these RasPi/3116 deals for a whole house thing if the first one works OK with Volumio and Sound@home
Was trying to figure out a good low cost pot as I might build 3 or 4 of these RasPi/3116 deals for a whole house thing if the first one works OK with Volumio and Sound@home
Check in Google for pull up/resistor,
In this case for shuting down the IC you Will have to use a pull down resistor to pull to low the sd pin. Conect a piece of wire to sd pin and conect it to a switch with a 10k resistor in between, on the other side of the switch a wire to the GND pin. When you active the switch you Will pull a low sígnal to the sd pin, this Will shutdown the IC, this is good If you are using a batery and want to avoid any on/of pop.
If what you want to do, is to disable the outputs, make the amp go to mute, Then do the oposite. Just Think that the normal state of the sd pin is high, so you take the high from the sd pin, and conect it to a switch , on the other side, to mute pin with a resistor in the middle. In this case when you connect the switch Will pull a high sígnal to mute pin, and this Will disable the outputs.
If Im wrong please correct me, before eh blows up the amp!!!
I've just been shorting SD to GND, without the resistor. I started with a paper clip, and have since installed a switch. I do this to prevent power off thump/pop.
So far it's been working fine for my purposes, though I admit I came up with this by guessing.
Should I have a resistor in series with my switch?I've just been shorting SD to GND, without the resistor. I started with a paper clip, and have since installed a switch. I do this to prevent power off thump/pop.
So far it's been working fine for my purposes, though I admit I came up with this by guessing.
Thats correct as I guess that that board it based in the tipical schematic, and If you chech in the schematic, you already have the pull up and pull down resistor, those are R13 and R14 in the datasheet schematic. So with a switch shorting the pins its enough.
To summarize...
I've tried several JY2.0 ("original" red boards), and with the addition only of the turn-on pop ("Giancarlo") suppression, I'm quite happy with these amps.
But, reading all of the stuff in this thread, I'm still piqued by possible "better" versions.
I'm preparing to make a small batch of these amps for some friends, and I'm thinking of going for something just a bit better
The idea is to try another TPA3116 variant, with as little modding as possible, using a readily available stock board from ebay. There must be no turn-on (or -off) pop - at least not noticeable... It should be reliable in operation, with as little heat generation as possible - will probably be powered by external 12V/3-4A laptop brick and placed in a very small closed enclosure, no air vents (see attachments), so excessive heat is a problem (my current JY 2.0 red boards generate almost no heat at 12V - the heatsink is only slightly warm to the touch, just barely noticeable).
I'm planning to use the stock board, with as little modding as possible. Getting replacement/better parts is a problem, and the SMD soldering is out of the question So, the board would probably be used in stock form, as-is.
So, given the above (no turn on or turn off pop), what do you recommend as the best readily available stock board, with sound quality just a bit better than the stock JY 2.0 (original red board)?
Danzz design blue/black (JY ver. 2) - i.e. something like this?
Is it really better in its stock form than YJ 2.0 red board? Or does anything better require extensive mods (which I'm not too keen on trying)?
TIA,
Denis
I've tried several JY2.0 ("original" red boards), and with the addition only of the turn-on pop ("Giancarlo") suppression, I'm quite happy with these amps.
But, reading all of the stuff in this thread, I'm still piqued by possible "better" versions.
I'm preparing to make a small batch of these amps for some friends, and I'm thinking of going for something just a bit better
The idea is to try another TPA3116 variant, with as little modding as possible, using a readily available stock board from ebay. There must be no turn-on (or -off) pop - at least not noticeable... It should be reliable in operation, with as little heat generation as possible - will probably be powered by external 12V/3-4A laptop brick and placed in a very small closed enclosure, no air vents (see attachments), so excessive heat is a problem (my current JY 2.0 red boards generate almost no heat at 12V - the heatsink is only slightly warm to the touch, just barely noticeable).
I'm planning to use the stock board, with as little modding as possible. Getting replacement/better parts is a problem, and the SMD soldering is out of the question
So, the board would probably be used in stock form, as-is.So, given the above (no turn on or turn off pop), what do you recommend as the best readily available stock board, with sound quality just a bit better than the stock JY 2.0 (original red board)?
Danzz design blue/black (JY ver. 2) - i.e. something like this?
Is it really better in its stock form than YJ 2.0 red board? Or does anything better require extensive mods (which I'm not too keen on trying)?
TIA,
Denis
Attachments
tpa3130
pcm1792
4000 Yen
http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/4880733245/?tag=nomanoshiwaza-22
I would like one.
den_hr, the HIFI 2.0 board has the best stock output filter and sounds really good stock. It cost a bit more and you can't place the PSU Oscon caps as close to the chip as you should(with stock cooling fin). On some speakers you dont have to do the RC snubber and it has OK dynamics with stock PSU caps. It has no smd ceramics which is good. I belive it has low on/off thump stock, and it has a mute button. With a beautiful enclosure it cost 35usd, and a little cheaper just the board. I have done a review on the amp around page 400 I think. I have 4 different boards and this is my recommendation.
I've tried several JY2.0 ("original" red boards), and with the addition only of the turn-on pop ("Giancarlo") suppression, I'm quite happy with these amps.
But, reading all of the stuff in this thread, I'm still piqued by possible "better" versions.
I'm preparing to make a small batch of these amps for some friends, and I'm thinking of going for something just a bit better
The idea is to try another TPA3116 variant, with as little modding as possible, using a readily available stock board from ebay. There must be no turn-on (or -off) pop - at least not noticeable... It should be reliable in operation, with as little heat generation as possible - will probably be powered by external 12V/3-4A laptop brick and placed in a very small closed enclosure, no air vents (see attachments), so excessive heat is a problem (my current JY 2.0 red boards generate almost no heat at 12V - the heatsink is only slightly warm to the touch, just barely noticeable).
I'm planning to use the stock board, with as little modding as possible. Getting replacement/better parts is a problem, and the SMD soldering is out of the question
So, given the above (no turn on or turn off pop), what do you recommend as the best readily available stock board, with sound quality just a bit better than the stock JY 2.0 (original red board)?
Danzz design blue/black (JY ver. 2) - i.e. something like this?
Is it really better in its stock form than YJ 2.0 red board? Or does anything better require extensive mods (which I'm not too keen on trying)?
TIA,
Denis
The YBDZ/wiener board sounds superb in stock form but has an absolutely awful turn on noise. For no turn on/off noise the Audiobah board is great. It does not sound quite as good as the YBDZ to my ears, but still excellent.
SURE card description says:
Comprehensive click-and-pop reduction circuitry minimizes noise coming into and out of shutdown or mute.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-50-Watt-4-Ohm-Class-D-Audio-Amplifier-Board-TPA3116-2-x-50-Watt-4-Ohm-Cla-/111452644377?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item19f3186419
Comprehensive click-and-pop reduction circuitry minimizes noise coming into and out of shutdown or mute.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-50-Watt-4-Ohm-Class-D-Audio-Amplifier-Board-TPA3116-2-x-50-Watt-4-Ohm-Cla-/111452644377?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item19f3186419
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Passlabs camp amp blows the TPA3116D2 away! I finally have an amp that is sounding like a real amp. Considering the fact that if you manage to drill and screw the board to a heatsink, the camp amp is a drop in replacement for the TPA3116D2. I used the sampe 19v 4A brick and then got another one for stereo.
Downside: The camp amp has two-three times lower output. I would struggle in a party using the 95dB sensitive speakers. A great trick from Mr Pass to get us to go for the big amps, because the sound is really addictive. But I can't afford that electrical bill so I will stay with this amp for a while.
Next experiment: Since the TPA3116D2 has pretty bad mids and treble in comparison, I could biamp and use the TPA3116D2 on my midwoofers. The woofers are more forgiving and just thirsts for pure power with none of that fancy class A sound. All I need is another brick.
Downside: The camp amp has two-three times lower output. I would struggle in a party using the 95dB sensitive speakers. A great trick from Mr Pass to get us to go for the big amps, because the sound is really addictive. But I can't afford that electrical bill so I will stay with this amp for a while.
Next experiment: Since the TPA3116D2 has pretty bad mids and treble in comparison, I could biamp and use the TPA3116D2 on my midwoofers. The woofers are more forgiving and just thirsts for pure power with none of that fancy class A sound. All I need is another brick.
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Interesting, can you elaborate on the 3116 - what board, mods, power supply?