Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it

and how does the sound of the 7498 stack up against the 3118?
i only ask as i love the sound of the 3116/3118 ....but theres so many chips out there im always curious to know if theres another classic in the waiting!!

I am of the same opinion as xrk. I am current using one of the EBay version of 7498 board (I changed all the output inductors to coilcraft). It is definitely more powerful as compare to the 3116 boards that I have used. To me the sound signatures of the 7498 and 3116 are very similar in my system. I do feel the base of the 7498 is a bit deeper and a wider sound stage. I run both the 3116s and 7498 off a 24V SMPS (not a brick), so not really pushing the 7498 for higher output.

Both amps sound fine (provided you get the "right board");)

Regards,
 
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hi xrk971
thanks for the link and your view,may have to give that one a try to then,playing with a tda7297 at the moment,that seems another decent amp to,more so for the silly money...we,ve never had it so good,or so cheap!!!

Another good amp if you stay below 10w requirement is TDA8932 monoblock from Sanwu. Sounds very neutral and kind of like a good class AB amp.

535276d1457017462-fasten-seat-belts-tda8932-pessimistic-review-sanwu-8932-test.png
 
Ceramic caps have made huge progress over the past 10 - 20 years, so that is probably part of it.


Well, I meant 1-2 years back, where a lot of people changed the coupling caps with "super duper" foils or even Russian NOS paper-in-oil etc.

Of course ceramics made a big step forward in the past years, mainly due to multilayer setup. DC-Bias still there, should be keeper in mind when using them like so.
 
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Well, I meant 1-2 years back, where a lot of people changed the coupling caps with "super duper" foils or even Russian NOS paper-in-oil etc.

Of course ceramics made a big step forward in the past years, mainly due to multilayer setup. DC-Bias still there, should be keeper in mind when using them like so.

Ceramics are way better than they once were. Still film caps are the best choice for many audio purposes. Maybe their size has something to do with it ? A PIO cap is larger than this complete amplifier module.

In other words: there does not seem to be much choice when one wants to mod these amps except for some odd flavors in SMD caps. Only solution is to take the time to design a PCB yourself, as you know. Such PCB's cost a multiple of these Sanwu amps that are ready built. Full circle.

Secondly new modules are coming on the market every month and it is hard to keep up leaving one no time to mod the amps :D
 
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Well, I meant 1-2 years back, where a lot of people changed the coupling caps with "super duper" foils or even Russian NOS paper-in-oil etc.

Of course ceramics made a big step forward in the past years, mainly due to multilayer setup. DC-Bias still there, should be keeper in mind when using them like so.

So far, there are problems more obvious and/or more pressing than perfecting the signal coupling caps. Having come over here more suddenly and unannounced from the class aB areas, I do get curious at the order of solutions. I think that we could probably hear what a well working ceramic cap is doing and could change it when needed. I'd like to think that it wouldn't be the greatest difficulty nor the first thing on the list to do. However, that's not true. Technically, any limitation at the input to a voltage gain stage must be resolved before conducting any other repairs. When the imaging/3d/realism is pancake flat and inappropriate, either the gain is too high/placid or you've got a ceramic input cap, pretty for tone, insufficient for resolution. Will the improvement necessitate making the amp slightly more nervous, or does it need replacement caps? I can't tell you which the case may be, except that you'll have to check both cases carefully. For sure, there's going to be some labor involved in determining the suitable locale for a repair. To avoid a shortfall, we really have to fix the most needy spot firstly.
 
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I just fired up my new TPA3118D2.
Think it´s the best so far compared to all TPA3116!
Very dynamic sound!
Just to much noice from my laptop power source.
What power supply to get?

Are you talking about Sanwu 3118 PBTL monoblock? I use a standard 19v laptop supply and do not notice noise. Try a linear supply like a 13.8v Astron or something. Also, easy to make a low power (1 amp or circa 12watt) linear supply from a transformer, caps, diodes and simple 7812 regulator. That will at least let you eliminate if noise source is power supply.

Or try a lead acid battery.

Don't forget to reset gain resistors from 36dB to 26dB, that may be amplifying noise more than you like.
 
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I suspect there's quite a range of quality when talking about laptop power supplies. Solve could have one of the marginal types.

Some popular power supplies: the Astron power supplies as xrk971 mentioned (e.g. SL-11R or RS-12A). The Sigma 11 is a well-regarded linear regulated DIY power supply. For a good SMPS, I've used several of the Connex power supplies (the SMPS300RS in particular for tpa311x amps).
 
Ceramics are way better than they once were. Still film caps are the best choice for many audio purposes. Maybe their size has something to do with it ? A PIO cap is larger than this complete amplifier module.

In other words: there does not seem to be much choice when one wants to mod these amps except for some odd flavors in SMD caps. Only solution is to take the time to design a PCB yourself, as you know. Such PCB's cost a multiple of these Sanwu amps that are ready built. Full circle.

Secondly new modules are coming on the market every month and it is hard to keep up leaving one no time to mod the amps :D


True story. I'm just curious about having the switching frequency coupled back into the input when using unshielded foils or bigger caps connected by wires.

From the benchmarks we did, ceramics tend to distort "a bit more" below ~100Hz compared Wima foil. But this highly depends on the MLCCs manufacturer/case size. But when it's mainly K2, it "warms" up the sound. Taking ACrms/DC-Bias into account, they will start to "compress" at higher coupling levels/amplitude which can be a nice "effect" as this also acts as a limiter for the low frequencies. Tube-Like? :D
@danielwritesbac

When/How did you find out for yourself that ceramics are bad in "resolution"?

How is "resolution" terminated within the analog world?

Regards.
 
Are you talking about Sanwu 3118 PBTL monoblock? I use a standard 19v laptop supply and do not notice noise. Try a linear supply like a 13.8v Astron or something. Also, easy to make a low power (1 amp or circa 12watt) linear supply from a transformer, caps, diodes and simple 7812 regulator. That will at least let you eliminate if noise source is power supply.

Or try a lead acid battery.

Don't forget to reset gain resistors from 36dB to 26dB, that may be amplifying noise more than you like.

Yes!The monoblock.
Sounds very good!
Going to reset gain soon.
Is this crap or decent?
72W 24V 3A Single Output Switching Power Supply AC to DC SMPS Free Tester | eBay

I suspect there's quite a range of quality when talking about laptop power supplies. Solve could have one of the marginal types.

Some popular power supplies: the Astron power supplies as xrk971 mentioned (e.g. SL-11R or RS-12A). The Sigma 11 is a well-regarded linear regulated DIY power supply. For a good SMPS, I've used several of the Connex power supplies (the SMPS300RS in particular for tpa311x amps).
Today 02:58 PM

Yes its an old, at least 10 years old HP 18.5v supply, very noicy.
My Kingrex PSU sounds great here but is another rigg.
SMPS300RS is a little to expensive I think.
:)