New TK2050 board

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Bdbender, I know that probably people asked those questions multiple times before (and I found those questions indeed) however I didn’t find clear answers.
You are right actually about my skills – I can’t design power supply from scratch, but I can build one. Primary reason I want to buy this DIY kit is to save money (and it is not really DIY – more like PnP). Two 300VA transformers will cost less than 2 SMPS, so if they work fine I’m ready to learn more about AC-DC power supplies – this would be my next step.
So, I’d like to bump up my questions:
1. Are there objective differences between SMPS vs. transformers for T3? Or are they so close that it is more subjective?
2. If transformers are better or very close, is it better to use 1x800VA or 2x400VA? How about 2x300VA?
3. What is an optimal voltage for T3 -- 39, 42 or 45VDC?
4. What would you recommend as preamp? Hifimediy didn’t publish release date on his preamp so far, so I’m thinking Pass B-1 + input selector (like this http://cgi.ebay.com/Audio-Input-Selector-Relay-Board-12V-regulator-/250635746633). Do you have better ideas?
Thank you in advance.
 
I messed with fonts, sorry about it. Please ignore my previous post.

1. Are there objective differences between SMPS vs. transformers for T3? Or are they so close that it is more subjective?
2. If transformers are better or very close, is it better to use 1x800VA or 2x400VA? How about 2x300VA?
3. What is an optimal voltage for T3 -- 39, 42 or 45VDC?
4. What would you recommend as preamp? Hifimediy didn’t publish release date on his preamp so far, so I’m thinking Pass B-1 + input selector (like this Audio Input Selector Relay Board, With 12V regulator - eBay (item 250635746633 end time Jan-14-11 05:21:52 PST)). Do you have better ideas?

Thank you in advance.
 
I messed with fonts, sorry about it. Please ignore my previous post.

1. Are there objective differences between SMPS vs. transformers for T3? Or are they so close that it is more subjective?
2. If transformers are better or very close, is it better to use 1x800VA or 2x400VA? How about 2x300VA?
3. What is an optimal voltage for T3 -- 39, 42 or 45VDC?
4. What would you recommend as preamp? Hifimediy didn’t publish release date on his preamp so far, so I’m thinking Pass B-1 + input selector (like this Audio Input Selector Relay Board, With 12V regulator - eBay (item 250635746633 end time Jan-14-11 05:21:52 PST)). Do you have better ideas?

Thank you in advance.

Hi, let's see if I can be more helpful this time... I don't have a set of T3s, but I did recently buy a T2 and the recommended Meanwell to go with it. It was more like hookup-and-play than DIY, and sounds unbelievably good for the price. I went with the SMPS after reading through this whole thread and in other places that class d amps like a very stable supply voltage, which the meanwells offer, and that people liked the sound of the T1s at least as well with the SMPS as with a conventional supply. I also think they are cost effective - hard to buy a decent toriod for what the whole Meanwell costs, let alone after adding decent filter caps to a conventional supply, good ones aren't cheap. So, if I were to buy a pair of T3s, I would also get the recommended pair of Meanwells to go with it. I would probably set the voltage at about 45, to leave a little slack between that and the 48v recommended maximum. Again, this is based on fooling with the T2, where I ended up at 27v rather than the maximum 30. You can play with the voltages on the SMPS just by turning a screw, something I also really liked.

The B1 buffer is well documented over on the Pass forum, and highly respected, and supported by various DIY threads and boards including the one you mention. More of a DIY project and less of a plug-and-play, though, that crew is into shunt-mode power supplies and balanced versions of inputs and outputs. Check out the "mezmerize" thread.

Hopefully someone who is actually using the T3s will chime in now!
 
Not sure what you are asking, but if you ask why there is not pot, maybe it is so you can use externally mounted pots, like on a chassis. I have one here pictured that I took the CTR pot off and bridged the connections. Then I used external individual pots mounted on the faceplate as shown. Works very well. This is the T1 80 watts @ 8 ohms, just finished yesterday. I am quite pleased with the HiFimeDIY product, it is crystal clear and extremely quiet, black background as they say. Breaking in now. Thanks hifimediy!
Sorry I didn't see your post last year:D, it's very nice, and will be a good sample we can follow.

Hifimediy, would be possible to make a T4 paralleled version (similar to T2)?
Power output would be doubled! :eek::eek:
Hi, I can consider that, I'm still working on T4 and hoping it will become a total new member to class-T amps.

Hifimediy, what about making a really high-end two-channel amp based on TC2000/2001 + STA517B (or other chips if there are any even better alternatives)and including SMPS? I don't mean using some exotic overpriced parts but using standard high quality parts and everything what would get the best from the chips and make the resulting amp really outstanding. There could be a high-quality input buffer, optimised PCB layout, several very low ESR el-caps close the the power stage, ceramic bypass caps very close to the power stage, short, wide and symetrical power lines, high quality film caps and output inductors, etc. The complete amp module incl. high quality SMPS should be mounted on an adequately sized, easy to mount heat sink. Such complete module would be easy to use in final application - user would have to place this module into some case and connect only power, input signal (optionally going through a pot or other volume control) and speaker terminals. Maybe you could produce it even as a complete (boxed) high quality stereo amp (for non-DIY'ers).
I know your existing products are already very good and simply excellent for the price but I believe it is possible to get even more from these excellent Tripath chips.

What do you and other members think? Is this a bad idea?

Hi, it's a good idea to make some complete amps and Nick and I believe we will do that in the coming year. But for boards, including a SMPS is not in my plan, because I think it will be dangerous to use (for diyers) and make things more complicated in some way. There are many very good SMPS for sale and we can also choose a transformer. And I don't refuse to try new ones if it's really interesting.;)
What's your opinion?
 
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Hifimediy, any plans for a T1 with a STa517b output chip for 8 ohm speakers? This might be a killer amp and I'd be very interested in it.
This is T4 ;). Disclosed few posts above, not yet available but should come soon now.

May I also suggest these input caps: Dayton 3.3 uF
You can replace the stock ones.

edit : T4 was introduced quite a large number of posts above ;) http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/164274-new-tk2050-board-115.html#post2392341
now WIMA input caps instead of EPCOS
 
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This is T4 ;). Disclosed few posts above, not yet available but should come soon now.


You can replace the stock ones.

edit : T4 was introduced quite a large number of posts above ;) http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/164274-new-tk2050-board-115.html#post2392341
now WIMA input caps instead of EPCOS

Thanks for the link, I found it before you posted the URL on page 115, post #1144. Looking forward to the T4, but hope not to have to replace the inputs caps; maybe the WIMA will updstage the EPCOS and be allowed to remain. I will not be driving 4 ohm loads and this is why this config is of particular interest.
 
BTW, I wonder how a single STA517B bridged not paralleled like in T4 behaves with 4 ohm speakers. Anyone knows ?

Mainly, it should be fine - very good even - up to a certain voltage. The STA517b's maximum output current, vs. the speaker impedance, is what determines how high you want the rail voltage. Around 24V should be 100% safe, maybe you can go higher.

Small detaiil - You'd need to adjust the output filter components for a flat frequency response, or the highest highs highs will be a dB or two low.
 
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Even a blind squirrel can find an acorn every once in a while.

My relay protection woes were caused by the output terminals. The central posts were making contact with the chassis in the holes I drilled. (Good call, DarpMalone [post#1197])

So with 4 ~5mm snips of heat shrink isolating the posts from the chassis, everything is working without fail! :D

I'll share pictures when I get a real camera in here.
 
Hi,
I guess many of you at this thread have other amps aoart from the HIFIMEDIY TK2050 amp.
I'm going to build a pair of Seas Embla's loudspeaker kits. Already have the parts to build. Quite an old kit with prestige drivers.
I'm looking aswell for an amp to go with them. I was looking for some second hand amps like Nad, Arcam, Musical Fidellity, Talk Electronics, Rotel... more or les in 200 euro price. I just wonder how this TK2050 compares to those classic mid budget brands.
Just to get some ideas.
Thanks.
 
Much better

A tweaked TK2050 amp will sound much better than any mid-fi (most high end) amps.
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Hi,
I guess many of you at this thread have other amps aoart from the HIFIMEDIY TK2050 amp.
I'm going to build a pair of Seas Embla's loudspeaker kits. Already have the parts to build. Quite an old kit with prestige drivers.
I'm looking aswell for an amp to go with them. I was looking for some second hand amps like Nad, Arcam, Musical Fidellity, Talk Electronics, Rotel... more or les in 200 euro price. I just wonder how this TK2050 compares to those classic mid budget brands.
Just to get some ideas.
Thanks.
 
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This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.