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Old 7th February 2010, 05:26 PM   #1001
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Location: Austin, Texas
Quote:
Originally Posted by sendler View Post
Are you using the Wurth coils? They are 12X12mm the same as the ones you are taking out. They are easy to fit right back in. Getting the old ones out can be tough. I think I am going to buy another cheap soldering iron and have someone help me desolder both side at once. Otherwise the stock coils can be desoldered on one side while prying up which breaks the housing on the other side allowing the first contact to rise clear of the pad. Then the other side can be desoldered normally.
Yup, I'm using the Wurths, Scott, though not the latest ones you recommended, rather these: Digi-Key - 732-1239-1-ND (Manufacturer - 7447709004)

I just heated the hell out of one side and applied pressure from underneath to prise them off the board. I then applied extra solder to each pad on the PCB and to the coils themselves, and then soldered a short length of wire to each pad. Soldered the other end of the wire to each coils' "terminal" and voila! Initially confounding and a pain, but it wasn't so bad once I settled on a feasible plan.

Hey, you got post 1000!

--Alan
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Old 7th February 2010, 09:48 PM   #1002
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Hi did you guys change output caps as well? (and add Zobal network)

Thanks
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Old 8th February 2010, 01:47 AM   #1003
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default caps and coils

Quote:
Originally Posted by Albrerta View Post
Hi did you guys change output caps as well? (and add Zobal network)
Thanks
I replace every thing. Here is the circuit.
Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050
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Old 8th February 2010, 02:24 AM   #1004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sendler View Post
I replace every thing. Here is the circuit.
Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050
yes I saw it, but a bit complex, how about just swap inductor to 4.7uH (or 3.9uH as you suggested), and replace all caps to 470nf, then add Zobal (470uf and 15R)
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Old 8th February 2010, 11:50 AM   #1005
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default Virtual components

Quote:
Originally Posted by Albrerta View Post
yes I saw it, but a bit complex, how about just swap inductor to 4.7uH (or 3.9uH as you suggested), and replace all caps to 470nf, then add Zobal (470uf and 15R)
Sorry about the confusion. That is correct. Just the two coils and the three caps plus the Zobel per channel. All of the caps are the same at .47uf. The other components in the schematic are "virtual" and are just for the simulation to model better. I will post a schematic of just the actual components when I get a chance to change it. The large Dayton caps fit underneath the board and the zobel is on the top.
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Old 8th February 2010, 04:01 PM   #1006
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default No harm

Quote:
Originally Posted by chaos_maniac View Post
Hi there, just registered to this very interesting forum.

I'm currently modding both my Lepai TA-2020 aswell as my Sure TK2050 2x100W. I've come to the point where I replace the filter inductors, but stumbled upon an issue I hope you can help me with.

Background:

I bought a lot of 10pcs 10uH toroids, and seeing as newbie-ish I still am with class D-amps I bought cheap ones. What I realised now afterwards was that I see people all over using red iron powder toroids, while the ones I bought seem to be light green ( #12 material according to iron powder material properties ).

Now with background in place, to my question: Will the TK2050 or TA2020 work well with these inductors or is it like asking for trouble? My knowledge in inductors is very limited and I don't wish to ruin neither my amps nor my speakers.

Link to the item I bought: Inductor 10uH 10 uH +/- 10% 5 pcs - eBay (item 260512722675 end time Feb-23-10 01:11:57 PST)

I'm thinking of keeping the original output filter capacitors, for the TK2050 that should give me at least an extra 20kHz to the output I suppose just by replacing the original inductors.

Thanks in advance, I don't dare solder these toroids to the boards before I know it's a harmless procedure.
It is no harm to try them. I'm sure they have at least as high a current rating as the stock coils.
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Old 8th February 2010, 04:22 PM   #1007
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default Schematic for output mod

Here is the schematic for the output mod. The 3.5uH coils will give amazing transparency but the difference between transparent and glare is 1 ohm at a time in the zobel. Using the 3.9 or 4.7 coils will be more forgiving.
Digi-Key - 732-1238-1-ND (Manufacturer - 7447709003)
Digi-Key - 732-2125-1-ND (Manufacturer - 7443310390)
Digi-Key - 732-1239-1-ND (Manufacturer - 7447709004)
Parts-Express.comayton DFFC-0.47 0.47uF 400V By-Pass Capacitor | polypropylene capacitor polypropylene PAC PA low pass foil film and foil dayton capacitor caps cap ac 47uf .47uf
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File Type: jpg Sure mod schematic comp.jpg (84.9 KB, 1121 views)
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Old 8th February 2010, 06:53 PM   #1008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sendler View Post
It is no harm to try them. I'm sure they have at least as high a current rating as the stock coils.
OK, thanks.

I was just abit worried that it might be made of the wrong core material thus creating weird problems with the filtering, but then I suppose it's alright to try. I might even bring forth my soldering iron tomorrow and at the same time put some 3,3uF MKT's in the input.
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Old 9th February 2010, 05:19 AM   #1009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sendler View Post
Here is the schematic for the output mod. The 3.5uH coils will give amazing transparency but the difference between transparent and glare is 1 ohm at a time in the zobel. Using the 3.9 or 4.7 coils will be more forgiving.
Digi-Key - 732-1238-1-ND (Manufacturer - 7447709003)
Digi-Key - 732-2125-1-ND (Manufacturer -

Hi sendler,

a question about the coil, if such a low value 3.5uH is used for those tiny hi perm shield coil, than perhaps the same low value on those high quality high perm coil would give even better result. eg. MPP core with 125 perm.
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Old 9th February 2010, 08:43 AM   #1010
Drakmin is offline Drakmin  Finland
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Hi,

Can I set the input sensitivity to high without the fear of breaking anything with Ipod and cellphones as audio source? I'll be using the amp with 18,5V battery in a ghettoblaster. How much power do I get with 18,5V for 4 ohm load?

Is it safe to use only one output channel and just convert input signal to mono since my blaster is a mono design.

Thanks!
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