The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine - Page 276

Audacious · 7th May 2012, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saturnus

There's a recap post a couple of pages back by aaroe.

A couple of pages. Lolz.

page 248 :P

Maybe you could link to the post? I am sure new people are arriving as we speak.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaroe

Here is a repost, so people don't have to go search the last 100 pages for it.

Best regards,

Audacious.

Saturnus · 7th May 2012, 06:56 PM

I have my account set to show 50 posts though. So for me it's a couple of pages.

Saturnus · 7th May 2012, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HifiBoyDenmark

okay so with a 30w solarpanel its = 30/12=2,5a? sound quite a lot :b the battery 's limit is 1,75a for recharging, but i guess the chargeregulator can do something about that?

Well, it's Ohm's Law (or is it Joule's First Law, I can't remember?)

I'm sure the charge regulator will tap that down, and I'm also sure you will not get 30W from 30W panel at our latitude under the conditions it's going to be used under.

bastanken · 7th May 2012, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saturnus

Acryllic sealant

Ah thats the one, thank you!!

If I'm not wrong i guess that I can use some kind of plasting padding to "glue" the hp10w drivers together?

HifiBoyDenmark · 7th May 2012, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saturnus

Well, it's Ohm's Law (or is it Joule's First Law, I can't remember?)

I'm sure the charge regulator will tap that down, and I'm also sure you will not get 30W from 30W panel at our latitude under the conditions it's going to be used under.

okay, but as long as it possible to charge it with about 0,5A it should be fine :b

blossom · 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saturnus

I'm sure the charge regulator will tap that down, and I'm also sure you will not get 30W from 30W panel at our latitude under the conditions it's going to be used under.

In any case, in conditions for a panel to put its peak power out it will also be getting very hot and they loose efficiency when they get hot as well......

A wee something interesting in regards to solar also, times are getting better!

http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/1...e-fossil-fuels

PinkNoiser · 8th May 2012, 10:12 AM

Hi...as explicitly said by saturnus no one cares, but my project goes on anyway. I tested 4x100W tk2050 and ta2024 boards frome sure, they work well. I bought all i need to build theese speakers http://www.ciare.com/pdf/Progetti/My...aker/pr020.pdf. All speakers will be the 4Ohm alternatives, so each channel will have 2 woofer powered by 2 tk2050 channels and a tweeter powered by one of the ta2024's channel. I've got 30W solar panels for the ta2024 and i'm going to purchase a >250W solar panel to power the tk2050.
What i need now is a way to split the input in 2LF and 1 HF for each channel, i'm thinking about building an active crossover/preamp. Anyone know some good schematic for that, or knows some good and pretty affordable commercial product that can suits my needings?

Phaedras · 8th May 2012, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PinkNoiser

Hi...as explicitly said by saturnus no one cares, but my project goes on anyway. I tested 4x100W tk2050 and ta2024 boards frome sure, they work well. I bought all i need to build theese speakers http://www.ciare.com/pdf/Progetti/My...aker/pr020.pdf. All speakers will be the 4Ohm alternatives, so each channel will have 2 woofer powered by 2 tk2050 channels and a tweeter powered by one of the ta2024's channel. I've got 30W solar panels for the ta2024 and i'm going to purchase a >250W solar panel to power the tk2050.
What i need now is a way to split the input in 2LF and 1 HF for each channel, i'm thinking about building an active crossover/preamp. Anyone know some good schematic for that, or knows some good and pretty affordable commercial product that can suits my needings?

The reason noone is interested in your project is that you're hogging Saturnus' thread about his Boominator design. You have no business debating another design in here - go make your own thread and people can come to your thread and post if they are interested.

gmarsh · 8th May 2012, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Audacious

Here is a repost, so people don't have to go search the last 100 pages for it.

Best regards,

Audacious.

I'd suggest editing the first post to point to this. Makes it a lot easier for first time builders.

A Boominator wiki would be the bee's knees... it'd be awesome if someone could get one started, ripping content from this thread etc. I've never edited a wiki in my life so I have no idea where to start.

barbfa · 9th May 2012, 08:10 AM

Just out of my curiosity, I thought a little about the bipolarity stuff. I know nothing about audio so this is just me speculating wildly from a laymans pov. AfaIu, each side of the Boomi is a speaker box with two woofers (and two tweeters but I get the feeling the bipolarity issue doesn't affect the higher frequenzys as much, right or wrong?) pointing one front and one back (even though the boomi doesn't really have a front or back). The two woofers sharing the enclosure need to be on the same channel, left or right. I thought of how I should try to explain this to my electronics building partner and in thinking I came up with this laymans speculative understanding to why it has to be so.

When the signal moves the woofers cone inward this compresses the air inside the enclosure, even though there are bass ports (is that what they're called?) in the handles the air still gets compressed, otherwise the air wouldn't move put those ports. And then the signal makes the woofer cone move outward again, but the pressure from the compressed air inside the enclosure should also be a part of what moves the cone outward, right? I guess this is why we have a enclosure for a driver in the first place?

So my thought is that if the woofers that share same enclosure move exactly the same, at the same time and as much, they kind of boost each other via the air inside the enclosure, since they compress it exactly as much from each side, at the same time. If they do not move exactly the same then they will get kind of unbalanced I guess, one woofer's cone forcing the other to move the wrong way via the air inside the box?

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7th May 2012, 06:56 PM	#2752
Saturnus diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark	I have my account set to show 50 posts though. So for me it's a couple of pages.

8th May 2012, 10:12 AM	#2757
PinkNoiser diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2012	Hi...as explicitly said by saturnus no one cares, but my project goes on anyway. I tested 4x100W tk2050 and ta2024 boards frome sure, they work well. I bought all i need to build theese speakers http://www.ciare.com/pdf/Progetti/My...aker/pr020.pdf. All speakers will be the 4Ohm alternatives, so each channel will have 2 woofer powered by 2 tk2050 channels and a tweeter powered by one of the ta2024's channel. I've got 30W solar panels for the ta2024 and i'm going to purchase a >250W solar panel to power the tk2050. What i need now is a way to split the input in 2LF and 1 HF for each channel, i'm thinking about building an active crossover/preamp. Anyone know some good schematic for that, or knows some good and pretty affordable commercial product that can suits my needings?

9th May 2012, 08:10 AM	#2760
barbfa diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2012	Just out of my curiosity, I thought a little about the bipolarity stuff. I know nothing about audio so this is just me speculating wildly from a laymans pov. AfaIu, each side of the Boomi is a speaker box with two woofers (and two tweeters but I get the feeling the bipolarity issue doesn't affect the higher frequenzys as much, right or wrong?) pointing one front and one back (even though the boomi doesn't really have a front or back). The two woofers sharing the enclosure need to be on the same channel, left or right. I thought of how I should try to explain this to my electronics building partner and in thinking I came up with this laymans speculative understanding to why it has to be so. When the signal moves the woofers cone inward this compresses the air inside the enclosure, even though there are bass ports (is that what they're called?) in the handles the air still gets compressed, otherwise the air wouldn't move put those ports. And then the signal makes the woofer cone move outward again, but the pressure from the compressed air inside the enclosure should also be a part of what moves the cone outward, right? I guess this is why we have a enclosure for a driver in the first place? So my thought is that if the woofers that share same enclosure move exactly the same, at the same time and as much, they kind of boost each other via the air inside the enclosure, since they compress it exactly as much from each side, at the same time. If they do not move exactly the same then they will get kind of unbalanced I guess, one woofer's cone forcing the other to move the wrong way via the air inside the box?