The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

Lutkeveld, I'd definitely go with switchmode poweramps to keep power dis as low as is practical, but a relatively conventional car stereo front end seems like a good way to get all the features I'd want, and it shouldn't need to draw that much current since it would have no poweramps built in. If I wanted to be minimalist, I'd just build a stereo preamp with my 4 section Baxandall tone control circuit, rig it for blue tooth, and provide a 5V USB port to power the phone off of. Along with switchmode poweramps and speakers. I'd also very probably biamp, so overdrive wouldn't be as likely to destroy the whole frequency range. My relatively cheap/old Samsung Exhibit smartphone has a few audio functions that make it both the music storage device and a remote control if that option is desired. I'd add an AUX in jack too. Some say CD's a passe, and USB chips as storage devices for the music seems great but then you need a way to display what's in them, create a song list to be played, or go random, and a way to convert that to an analog feed. Doing that is outside of my skill set at this point. Maybe a smartphone is a good enough front end all by itself... I'd also add external speaker jacks in case I ended up in a place where someone else had much better speakers. I would switch off the internal speakers and go with those.

Saturnus, Maybe nothing. It's a portable stereo. What else does it need to be?
Just thought I'd throw in my thoughts and see what I might learn.

I think Bob that you are asking in the wrong forum, as saturnus says, this forum is about a specific design, his design, what you are looking for is a forum that discusses boomboxes in general. There are some other threads in DIY audio that cover boombox design but no specific forum, you may have more luck on the 12v forum at speakerplans

you can learn a lot by reading the boominator forum but you wont really get much response to questions if you are building something else.

Good luck with your design.....

*BJ*
 
Hello all my build is now on to the handles/ports, i have cut one handle but i only had a 32mm hole cutting drill bit. Now looking back on the sketchup and the thread i have noticed that it should be 30mm wide and 120mm long....
My question is will i matter being 2mm bigger????
Will it effect the sound??? any advice would be welcome, i dont want to cut the other port until i know for sure.
Fingers crossed i dont need to make a new end piece.
 
Done with my boominator!

Thanks everyone for the help, especially canopysound and Saturnus!
 

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Output power and consumption varies with voltage. With the same voltage every amplifier will have the same output power. The amp9 will output the same as the amp6 per channel on the voltage so you get nothing from keeping it at 12V. That wasn't my point though. I want to use active filtering so I have a channel for both tweeter and woofer separately on both sides.

The ingenious part is that the tweeter filter will be a stopband filter, and you can connect a passive external subwoofer to those 2 channels. The tweeters will also be connected in series to lower the sensitivity by 6 dB (those I will use are 101dB sensitivity so they'll match the woofers) and avoid using a series resistor. It'll only have a series cap on the passive side after the amp.

The woofer output will remain unchanged. This setup will make sure that you can play slightly louder without using very much extra power. And that you can connect a passive subwoofer directly to it for more bass extension when you have a big party.

Unfortunately when you double the voltage (from 12V to 24V) you not only quadruple the output power but also the consumption. And battery times below 9 hours from 2 12V 7Ah SLAs is completely unacceptable to me.

Hi Saturnus! I ordered the amp9 basic amplifier instead of the regular amp6 basic amplifier and after I did my order I read your comment quoted above. Do I understand you correct if you supposed to use two of the ports of the amp9 for parallell coupling of the woofers and the other two for serie coupling of the tweeters?

In that case when youre talking about lowering the sensivity of the tweeters by parallell coupling them, how do I calculate if the sensivity between the hp-10W and the tweeters i bought (Monacor MPT-001 - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning) will match by this coupling.
And if I would need some extra resistor coupled or something, how do I calculate how many Ohms it should be?
My other question is how I in practice can build the tweeter circuits and connect an external (I guess that the passive woofer you are talking about is plugged in through some kind of port) woofer sometime in the future.
Do I just connect some kind of port to the circuit?

Sorry if my questions are stupid, I'm a total rookie on this :)
 
Does change in the dimensions of a Boominator Mini affect the sound quality?

I'm looking to mod a Boominator Mini into the dimensions of an old suitcase. The internal dimensions are 42cm*32cm*17cm, which is a little bigger than the original design and has a different shape too. I was going to follow the general design of the Mini with the center brace and electronics compartment, but position the tweeter on top of the woofer to save space for the battery. I'm planning to follow the component and wiring instructions, is this okay? Does my plan make any sense to you?

wOiYPvT.jpg
 
1st post ....

its needs saying !

Im quite heavily into home Hi-Fi and needed a bluetooth 'boombox', long story short, during the browsing session came across the V2 boominator mini and though i'd spend my money wisely and build rather than buy, found this thread and built one .... got it finished tonight and Im 'ABSOLUTELY BLOWN AWAY' the little box is a bloody animal, bought the set from accusafe along with a maxamps 20, didnt pack but wrapped the inside with eggbox acoustic foam and a cheap bluetooth receiver ,

I finished the case by dark oak waxing a carbon slide for the 3300 4s lipo and a Fender leather handle,

just had 6 hours running the speakers in outdoor's in the moonlight with Pink Floyd, The Door, Santana and a little Morcheeba and Im in love, Saturnus you are a Legend thank you :)

money has been well spent and as you can probably tell Im a happy bunny :)
 
Hi there,
I planned 8 month ago to start the build of an original Boominator, I have all the stuff now (yeah, i took my time :D ).

I would like to know if anybody has any experience with epoxy resin. I would like to use this kind of "glue", but i have no experience with that.

I have been reading a lot about epoxy and loads (like microballons) but still have a question. Where do we have to apply the epoxy :rolleyes: ?
If I only do a joint between the two piece of wood, is it enough (
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
) or do we have to put some between, like this (it is not epoxy there) :
plan-de-construction-d-enceinte-sono.jpg


Any advices will be appreciate!

Manu
 
I thought it was for density control, as it is a bit liquid? Am i wrong?

Do you recommand using epoxy resin?
If i use soem epoxy resin, do i have to put some like the second picture?
I read that you use to be a carpenter no? If you have any advide using this kind of glue, that would me great for me (sorry for my poor english).

Thanks a lot!

Manu
 
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Couple of thoughts after using my Micro for quite a while:
-Use some kind of grill/protection with other people around. They seem to find the Micro quite interesting, the moving woofers in particular.
-Use some feet as well, I used low-profile chair felts. It reduces the chance of getting scratch marks, filthiness, and falling damage quite a bit.
-Use a clean cloth/paper towel to remove excess glue. I used an old one and got some non removable smear marks.

On to a Halfinator. Me and my friend just need to get our hands on the components so we can start in the autumn (hopefully :)).
 
I thought it was for density control, as it is a bit liquid? Am i wrong?

Do you recommand using epoxy resin?
If i use soem epoxy resin, do i have to put some like the second picture?
I read that you use to be a carpenter no? If you have any advide using this kind of glue, that would me great for me (sorry for my poor english).

Thanks a lot!

Manu

Epoxy glues are a pain in the **** because you have to mix two components together.
try a Polyurethane glue like this
Structan | Rectavit

don't know about brands in france, sorry, but there are many different brands all over europe, the key is that they cure with moisture from the air, and expand slightly, this ensures that you get a tight seal. And they are amazingly strong, much stronger than a PVA/wood glue, which is what the glue is in your picture above.
 
Is it possible in any way to test or describe how loud / clear a properly built boominator plays?

I know I have some small measurement errors that are not visible or left any air holes, but I would like to know if my boominator plays its full potential.
Not that Im dissatisfied, Im just curious!

Extremely loud. Impossible to have a conversation with anyone in about 2 meters without yelling at the top of your lungs.

There could be many reasons why you're not getting the loudness it can deliver. They've all been covered before.
 
Boominator upgrade.......
Inspired by shortropes Tham15 system I thought that I'd put one of my HD15s to good use....... I've wanted a battery system to run inverters for decks, laptop chargers etc for a while now......
So, two 110ah deep cycle batteries, one running a 300w inverter and the other running a bassface db1.2 mono class D subwoofer amp, connected to a HD15.....

Not fully tested yet but I'm a little disappointed already. Great to have a power plant all built into a single integrated unit, I knew it would be heavy but jeez, it is so heavy, it kinda defeats the object of portability..... I may as well cart a generator about.....
I may have to split it into separate units....

Will be using it in anger at the weekend so I'll report back....



BJ
 

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