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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 7th December 2011, 03:43 AM   #2421
ThokN is offline ThokN  Denmark
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What is most important to you: price, quality or easy-build? In my experience it is a lot easier with piezo's than real tweeters, and they are quite a lot cheaper. Good tweeters however sounds better though, but piezo's will do the job fine if you are not an audiophile.

If you go piezo, it will be very easy for you to find out which resistors to use with them in this thread, but if you go tweeter you will have to learn about crossover-frequencies, capacitors etc, unless someone in here with the knowledge is kind enough to help you with it (I don't have the knowledge).

And btw, I'm not sure the piezo's or tweeters you link to are your best choices. Choose either the piezo or tweeter route, and then search this thread for piezo-replacements (the original bubble-piezo is unavailable), or which tweeters people have used. I know that PressureFM used some very nice tweeters with a very nice result.

And last, look at Rubenn's half-boominator since you are only using 2 speakers..that might give you some inspiration/knowledge on connections etc.
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Old 7th December 2011, 04:51 AM   #2422
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i've watches plenty of threads incl. the half boominator thread..

MY goal is to build one like i linked from youtube in the post above, IF the speakers i linked wont have to have a too big box to be in (The P. Audio HP-10w). My budget has raised to about 200euro's .. that should be eneugh..(amp6basic, 2x p. audio hp-10w, 7ah batteri, and piezo's, resistors and small details)

I know i has to learn about the crossover-frequencies, capacitors etc. but iv'e really tried and its not easy
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Old 7th December 2011, 03:22 PM   #2423
Wubbaz is offline Wubbaz  Denmark
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I would like to know how much power I have on my batteries, since I will be having solar panels installed and will be charging phones on my Boominator. So I got the idea of getting some kind of digital meter to measure my batteries..

But should I get a voltmeter or an ammeter? I would like to know how much power I have on the batteries, so that I don't end up with drawing too much power from the batteries.. should I be measuring volts or amperes then? I saw that Phaedras has some sort of 'meter' on his Boominator, but I don't know if that is for volts or amperes? Also, where should the border be, i.e a border for how many volts/amperes my meter should be showing? I will be using two 7Ah batteries in parralel, 12v of course.
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Old 7th December 2011, 03:41 PM   #2424
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Volts. A fully recharged (lead acid) battery has 13.5V and it should be disconnected when it reaches 10.5V to avoid permanent damage. Remember, it must be recharged as soon as possible thereafter as it will take permanent damage from being left in discharged state.

Also remember that lead batteries discharge themselves quite rapidly, so you need to recharge once every 3-4 month even when not in use, or they will suffer permanent damage.

By permanent damage I naturally mean permanent loss of maximum capacity. Count on 5% to 20% loss of capacity for every instance. For example if you have a 7Ah battery that you have used up at the festival and when you come home you just leave it in the garage. And then before the festival next year you realize you have to recharge them again so you have power, those batteries will effectively only have 30% capacity left when they are recharged if you're lucky so 2Ah max but probably much less.
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Old 7th December 2011, 04:01 PM   #2425
Wubbaz is offline Wubbaz  Denmark
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Thank you for the quick reply, Saturnus. That was very helpful.

If I were to get a charger for SLA batteries, which one should I get? Would a simple charger for lead acids batteries work, or is there some kind of special charger for SLA batteries? By lead acid battery charger, I'm thinking of something like this: ANSMANN Blylader ALCS 2-24 A "Automatic" : Batterishoppen: Holdbare og billige batterier
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Old 7th December 2011, 04:17 PM   #2426
ThokN is offline ThokN  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HifiBoyDenmark View Post
i've watches plenty of threads incl. the half boominator thread..

MY goal is to build one like i linked from youtube in the post above, IF the speakers i linked wont have to have a too big box to be in (The P. Audio HP-10w). My budget has raised to about 200euro's .. that should be eneugh..(amp6basic, 2x p. audio hp-10w, 7ah batteri, and piezo's, resistors and small details)

I know i has to learn about the crossover-frequencies, capacitors etc. but iv'e really tried and its not easy
..okay, well if you have already decided on piezos, then you don't need to read about filters. Just search for the best piezo replacement in this thread, and then search for which resistors to use with them..(provided that you go for the HP-10W, or else you still need to read a little about crossovers, but it is not that difficult with piezos.)

Last edited by ThokN; 7th December 2011 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 7th December 2011, 04:26 PM   #2427
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What do you mean "if I were to get a charger"?

When you buy a rechargeable battery, lead or otherwise, they are not fully charged. The actual charge level is 80% or less. You have to recharge them before use.

The charger you linked to is basically cheap crap. Get a good charger like this one:

Lead Acid Smart Charger (3.0 A) for 12V Lead Acid Battery 3 stages floating for Worldwide, UL/CE Listed

It's also cheaper. Just cut the power chord and put a danish plug on it. It's what I use.

Last edited by Saturnus; 7th December 2011 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 7th December 2011, 04:38 PM   #2428
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Default Important note on piezo choices.

It seems the ideal bubble tweeters will never be available so what's the alternative?

Well, luckily the originally intended original Motorola/CTS KSN1001A piezos are now available again from several places, for example:

CTS / Motorola KSN-1001 Recessed Mount Piezo Electric Super Horn Tweeter</font>
Martin Sound

They're pricey but for Danish/nordic customers actually not much more expensive than the cheap crap they sell at most stores.

If you want them a little cheaper then Monacor has started stocking a KSN1001A replica of very decent quality. Get them from here:

MPT-001
MONACOR MPT-001 - Thomann danske Cyberstore

For both I recommend a 33 or 47 ohm resistor in series. Please make sure it's NOT a power resistor but a solid carbon or metal film resistor of 3W type.

Last edited by Saturnus; 7th December 2011 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 7th December 2011, 06:50 PM   #2429
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Default An additional note on the KSN1001As

The Boominator was originally designed with the CTS KSN1001As in mind but I couldn't find them available anywhere so I started looking for alternatives as all the replicas available at the time (2006-2007) was utter crap. It was in that sourcing process I discovered the original bubble horn tweeter from Zomax which was on par with the CTS/Motorolas.

The great thing about these is that you only need to cut or drill a 76mm (3") hole which is a standard cup drill size in the front sides and then you mount from the back and they will be flush on the front.

You can then use the 76mm cup drill to drill the holes in the center brace.

To get the best possible sound from these horns. Fill the "rip grooves" with acrylic sealant, and a big blob of sealant in the center of the back plate. Also screw the driver bit off and glue it back together.

Last edited by Saturnus; 7th December 2011 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 7th December 2011, 07:44 PM   #2430
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By "rip grooves" do you mean where the red arrows are pointing, and the "big blog of sealant in the center of the back plate" where the blue arrow is pointing?
Click the image to open in full size.
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