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Old 15th March 2004, 12:22 PM   #21
rwaudio is offline rwaudio  Canada
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The only paper I've had "melt" is the inkjet iron on stuff for making t-shirts and that sort of thing.. didn't do any harm to the printer, just under heat the toner didn't stick to the paper, so I had to run a bunch of normal paper through after to pickup the toner.. but this inkjet coated semigloss works great.. there maybe better paper, as I haven't tried much..
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Old 15th March 2004, 02:06 PM   #22
jmar is offline jmar  United States
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I've made many homebrew PCB's.

I've recently gone from the Kepro negative DF boards to a positive
process with fantastic results.

Get the material and chemicals from Parts Express....inkjet a film pos on transparency film at 2880 dpi....

and that's it.
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Old 15th March 2004, 04:47 PM   #23
Kermit is offline Kermit  Norway
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Quote:
Originally posted by soundNERD

Also, that quote ppfred linked to said about making silkscreens with that paper. Is that true? After the etching can I print the silkscreen onto a piece of photo paper and iron it onto the top of the pcb? Would that stay?
Yes, works very well, but the silkscreen will obviously be black, and doesn’t look very pro. But it makes populating complex boards a bit easier.
Here’s an example of silkscreen I have done this way, except I use plain paper for this, as quality of the silkscreen isn’t of that big importance to me.
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File Type: jpg pcb_top.jpg (15.7 KB, 1022 views)
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Old 16th March 2004, 01:32 AM   #24
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hey, black looks more pro-er (don't laugh) than nothin...

can everybody please give me their opinions on the absolute best paper to use?? How about the hp or epson i talked about earlier???

Also, can this work for surface mount chips? I am designing a surface mount headphone amp using the lm4881M, so I need to be able to make small traces perfectly.

i picked up a couple sheets of transparency from kinkos, is it worth trying at least?

thx,
mike
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Old 16th March 2004, 01:34 AM   #25
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oh and what about the protective/nice looking coating?
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Old 16th March 2004, 10:36 AM   #26
Optical is offline Optical  New Zealand
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My old method involved printing onto a sheet of sticker backing, when heated up the ink would come right off the waxy like surface and stick to the pcb!
worked like a charm..

now i have access to a mill
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Old 16th March 2004, 12:58 PM   #27
adx is offline adx  New Zealand
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My 2c:

I know you're not looking for a "photo" process, but I find the positive photoresist boards very easy to work with. DSE in NZ have or at least had a green spray (aerosol) that you can paint copper with - or buy presensitised Kinsten board which is cheap enough. I have settled on using an inkjet printer (better accuracy, better contrast, very fine tracks) onto thin photo quality paper (not transparency), lining up and taping print side together against a window (for 2 sided boards). This goes in the UV exposure box (the tricky part - vaccum bag hold down and UV lamps top and bottom) for 5 minutes. Develop in solution of NaOH 5g/L lukewarm water. Etch as usual (hot ammonium persulphate in a bubble tank). I think the fastest I've done this part from print to ready to drill is 20 minutes or maybe that even included drilling (we used to have races). Drilling is the horrible part for me - I've got a DIY CNC router but it's a pain to set up. If drilling manually I like to use worn (throwaway) carbide drill bits because they self centre easier in pad holes. All hell breaks loose when you break your last drill bit on a weekend.

As for protecting the boards, I either leave the photoresist on, or spray with plasti-kote clear acrylic spray.
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Old 17th March 2004, 01:32 AM   #28
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ok, thanks, but i am sticking with the toner method, nothing is going to change my mind.

the sticker thing sounds interesting. can i use ordinary wax paper?
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Old 17th March 2004, 01:37 AM   #29
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o can i get rid of the toner except on the pads, spray it with the protector stuff, then remove the toner on the pads so everything is protected except the pads?

hopefully this makes sense
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Old 17th March 2004, 11:39 AM   #30
jmar is offline jmar  United States
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Your wasting your time with ANY method other than a photo process.

Why?
Because any other method gives INFERIOR results.

Been there....done that.


FYI.

(You're welcome).
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