Well yes you will need to buy replacement parts for all of those shorted transistors, and you can find them thru the links I provided you earlier in this thread. < see post #24 > Just click on those links and put your part numbers into the search bar and click and VIOLA !!! who, and how much and how to buy them will pop up on your screen.
As for Silicon heat sink compound well your local radio shack will have it in very small tubes. it's quite expensive. So you will not want to waste it, so go sparingly with it. I buy bulk and get bulk rates on things so when I buy I get 400 gram buckets and you don't want to know how much they retail for
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So you need to go shopping for clamp materials at your local hardware store and Silicon heat sink compound at Radio shack or any of the large suppliers you will see when you search for you transistors on those links I posted to you earlier. Do not use Arctic silver or any other of those high price metal based compounds you see in computer stores. CPU's are isolated from their metal case parts so using silver and copper compounds are OK, but these transistors carry power on their metal tabs and the White silicon heat sink compound you want is non conductive of electricity while those metal based compounds will conduct electricity along with heat. That would short out all of your hard work so don't go fancy just use plain white silicon heat sink compound, ONLY...
As for Silicon heat sink compound well your local radio shack will have it in very small tubes. it's quite expensive. So you will not want to waste it, so go sparingly with it. I buy bulk and get bulk rates on things so when I buy I get 400 gram buckets and you don't want to know how much they retail for
. So you need to go shopping for clamp materials at your local hardware store and Silicon heat sink compound at Radio shack or any of the large suppliers you will see when you search for you transistors on those links I posted to you earlier. Do not use Arctic silver or any other of those high price metal based compounds you see in computer stores. CPU's are isolated from their metal case parts so using silver and copper compounds are OK, but these transistors carry power on their metal tabs and the White silicon heat sink compound you want is non conductive of electricity while those metal based compounds will conduct electricity along with heat. That would short out all of your hard work so don't go fancy just use plain white silicon heat sink compound, ONLY...
Morning Joey, I don't sell parts on the DIY, I just try to help out with the tech part of what your doing. Yes I have all the parts you need, but you can get them just about anywhere on your own for reasonable prices. If your having trouble please just PM me a email and I will try to sort it out for you....
ok for now i'll just pull the ones off the other ppi amp that are good bc i tested them and i dont feel like waiting for parts, right now. next is is there a easier way of desoldering the legs off the board and getting the solder out of the holes so i can put the good transistor in place, so far i used the stupid braided copper that somebody sujust using and it sucks. thank you for ur time and helping me out so again here is what i pulled out of good ones (Q7 Q8 Q9 Q10 Q12 Q17, do i need the resistor right behind the rca too if so i can probably get those at a radio shack?
Desoldering braid isn't very good for clearing holes. If you must use it, flux makes it work better.
If you want a good desoldering pump, order an Edsyn DS017. I'd suggest that you buy from a reputable distributor or directly from Edsyn. Some of the ones on eBay are likely to be counterfeit. If you keep the DS017 clean and don't abuse it, it will probably work well for you for 10 years or more.
If you want a good desoldering pump, order an Edsyn DS017. I'd suggest that you buy from a reputable distributor or directly from Edsyn. Some of the ones on eBay are likely to be counterfeit. If you keep the DS017 clean and don't abuse it, it will probably work well for you for 10 years or more.
Q7 thru Q11 are 2N6490 transistors. Just use that number for replacement parts. It's all you need to ID correct parts replacement. If you look at the plastic tops of those devices you will see that number etched/printed into the surface of them. Q12 is a driver transistor and they varied by the model. The unit I have in front of me uses 2SB1186A transistor. You should check yours to see what number it uses.
The resistors are 10 ohm 2 watt ceramic type resistors. As I spoke about earlier they can be found on ebay if your search engines don't turn up any responses to that part inquiry.
Here is a link to a guy in Arizona that has your 10 ohm resistors if your local shops don't have it.
5 Pack 2 Watt 5 Metal Oxide Power Resistors 10 Ohm | eBay
Would you also post a close up in focus picture of the large resistors near all the failed transistors just under the large ground bus bar ? if all of the these transistor burned out some of those emitter resistors could have heated up and changed value or opened up also. So please look at them and measure them with your meter if possible. They should all read the exact same on your meter. IF they look ok < no signs of heat damage > and all read the same then your likely good to go there and they will probably be ok. But you should check them just to be sure...
If your still having trouble finding parts just Private Mail me, and I will guide you in private mail on the search.
Perry Is very much correct about you needing a proper desoldering tool. I use them and solder wick, along with electronic grade liquid flux < you can get this at Fry's electronics or any supplier that has GC electronics chemicals. You can use acetone and q-tips to remove and residual solder flux contamination. Acetone can be had at your local hardware supplier in the paint department. They also have denatured alcohol and it too could be used to clean up your board after work is completed.
Careful with these chemicals, please use adequate person protection when using solvents and other chemicals related to electronics repair work!
The resistors are 10 ohm 2 watt ceramic type resistors. As I spoke about earlier they can be found on ebay if your search engines don't turn up any responses to that part inquiry.
Here is a link to a guy in Arizona that has your 10 ohm resistors if your local shops don't have it.
5 Pack 2 Watt 5 Metal Oxide Power Resistors 10 Ohm | eBay
Would you also post a close up in focus picture of the large resistors near all the failed transistors just under the large ground bus bar ? if all of the these transistor burned out some of those emitter resistors could have heated up and changed value or opened up also. So please look at them and measure them with your meter if possible. They should all read the exact same on your meter. IF they look ok < no signs of heat damage > and all read the same then your likely good to go there and they will probably be ok. But you should check them just to be sure...
If your still having trouble finding parts just Private Mail me, and I will guide you in private mail on the search.
Perry Is very much correct about you needing a proper desoldering tool. I use them and solder wick, along with electronic grade liquid flux < you can get this at Fry's electronics or any supplier that has GC electronics chemicals. You can use acetone and q-tips to remove and residual solder flux contamination. Acetone can be had at your local hardware supplier in the paint department. They also have denatured alcohol and it too could be used to clean up your board after work is completed.
Careful with these chemicals, please use adequate person protection when using solvents and other chemicals related to electronics repair work!
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You should also post a clear close up pic of the ceramic vertical card facing these bad outputs. Perry has a tutorial on how and what to look for on these SIP modules. it is likely that a resistor has opened up on the module and it must be repaired like you see in Perry's tutorial IF its has sustained damage as I suspect it might have.
This module can be damaged beyond repair in some cases. if this has happened you will need to find another SIP modules to replace this one, and they can only be found on other amps as they are not made any longer. Occasionally you will see them posted for sale on Ebay, but that is getting more and more rare these days.
This module can be damaged beyond repair in some cases. if this has happened you will need to find another SIP modules to replace this one, and they can only be found on other amps as they are not made any longer. Occasionally you will see them posted for sale on Ebay, but that is getting more and more rare these days.
i dont plan on scrappy the other one i just took some parts and i'm going to replace them when i order them and fig that amp out next? bc i can take reading from the amp we fix and hopefully you can guide me again so we can fix tha amp together too and i can still learn, i also have a jl e1400d and a kicker 850x2 2ch am it's huge though
ok some how i burned all the good transistor that i tooked off the good board, i dunno if i did it from too hot of soldering, or i dunno but now i dont have no reading above .020, if u guys got a beter idea of desoldering the transister with out burnning them i would like to know or show me a video on how to that would be nice. anyways now i'm stuck spending hours and nothing seems to be working
Ok , slow down and take a minute to digress....Take a big calming deep breath, < this always works for me >
I would not take parts from the other amp to fix this one, but that's just me and my way. But you have already done that now and its too late to back up on what you have done. So water under the bridge all that and lets wait till new parts come in, ok?
Now one thing, did you put power to the amp after installing all those swapped parts ??? Let me know exactly what you have done step by step so I can figure out what went wrong, and why ???
Also some pics of your work would be nice as they help me to see what you have done and where you are. Please remember I am on a terminal somewhere else in the world, so seeing whats going on helps loads...
I would not take parts from the other amp to fix this one, but that's just me and my way. But you have already done that now and its too late to back up on what you have done. So water under the bridge all that and lets wait till new parts come in, ok?
Now one thing, did you put power to the amp after installing all those swapped parts ??? Let me know exactly what you have done step by step so I can figure out what went wrong, and why ???
Also some pics of your work would be nice as they help me to see what you have done and where you are. Please remember I am on a terminal somewhere else in the world, so seeing whats going on helps loads...
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