The LM337 is what you should have there. The difference between the output and the adjust terminals should be precisely 1.25v when the regulator is working properly. If the resistor values are wrong, the regulator can't function properly.
Do you have a 337 there?
Can you post a photo of the regulator area so I can see the resistor values and the traces?
Do you have a 337 there?
Can you post a photo of the regulator area so I can see the resistor values and the traces?
r119 has 2000 on it and r117 has 2211 on it
the other amp is here
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=127300
its not working i figured i could just leave it till i fixed the other one because i was making more progress on it. i can steal more parts if needed
the other amp is here
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=127300
its not working i figured i could just leave it till i fixed the other one because i was making more progress on it. i can steal more parts if needed
With those resistors, you should have -15.1v (approximately) at the output.
It's possible that both amps had the same problems and the replacement regulator was defective. It's also possible that one or both of the resistors is out of tolerance. You'll probably have to remove the resistors from the circuit so that you can measure their value accurately.
It's possible that both amps had the same problems and the replacement regulator was defective. It's also possible that one or both of the resistors is out of tolerance. You'll probably have to remove the resistors from the circuit so that you can measure their value accurately.
the last picture post location R318 R319 the marking on the resistor was 1000 i replaced it with 10R0 i checked and pulled from the other amp 1000 seems to mean 100 ohm. i replaced it with a 101 marked on it. i hope im right this time.
the change seemed to make a difference. i now have +-15v at the opamp. i am now getting -50v at the speaker terminals
the change seemed to make a difference. i now have +-15v at the opamp. i am now getting -50v at the speaker terminals
The LM311 isn't causing you to have 50v on the speaker terminals. It's part of the protection circuit. When I get back to the shop tomorrow, I'll dig out a 5601 I have to see what voltage should be on it.
The problem is likely in the area of the second 5532 (the one that was getting hot). Are you sure you didn't bridge any solder connections or wipe any of the SMD components off of the board in that area?
If you're not sure, look back at the photos you took of the area.
The problem is likely in the area of the second 5532 (the one that was getting hot). Are you sure you didn't bridge any solder connections or wipe any of the SMD components off of the board in that area?
If you're not sure, look back at the photos you took of the area.
since i changed out the 10r0 with 101 resistors the op amp isnt getting hot like it did before. its still warm but not a million degrees like it was before.
im certain nothing is missing or briged because i can check the other identical amp i have here with it. that amp i havent touched the op amp yet so everything in that corner of the board is in order.
im certain nothing is missing or briged because i can check the other identical amp i have here with it. that amp i havent touched the op amp yet so everything in that corner of the board is in order.
Initially, I was only concerned with the power supply inputs of the op-amp but looking at the signal input voltages, it appears that the op-amp is defective. The voltage on pin 5 (the non-inverting input) is higher than the voltage on pin 6 (the inverting input) which should make the output swing towards the positive supply voltage. Here it's swinging towards the negative supply.
Have you replaced this op-amp since you replaced the resistor 10 ohm resistor with the 100 ohm resistor? If not, you need to replace it.
Have you replaced this op-amp since you replaced the resistor 10 ohm resistor with the 100 ohm resistor? If not, you need to replace it.
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