It works!
Hello Peter,
The hardest part was working out the logistics of when to be home to sign for various packages, but now it's done. My DAC worked the first time! I've never had anything work the first time, so this has me pretty excited.
Thank you for all of your help, and for throwing me a life preserver (emergency care package of capacitors and resistors) when I couldn't find one.
I listened to it for about an hour before unplugging it; the cat was getting to close to the dangling mains connector.
I'm going to pick up some tube over the weekend and fashion a proper enclosure. I have the parts to build a simple switcher and plan on finishing that in a few days to cycle between my 3 optical sources.
Then again, I have an extra PIC controller, IR sensor, and spare remote... 1 thing at a time. :-D
I'll post some pictures when things are...presentable. Who needs more PCB porn?
Thanks again!
Hello Peter,
The hardest part was working out the logistics of when to be home to sign for various packages, but now it's done. My DAC worked the first time! I've never had anything work the first time, so this has me pretty excited.
Thank you for all of your help, and for throwing me a life preserver (emergency care package of capacitors and resistors) when I couldn't find one.
I listened to it for about an hour before unplugging it; the cat was getting to close to the dangling mains connector.
I'm going to pick up some tube over the weekend and fashion a proper enclosure. I have the parts to build a simple switcher and plan on finishing that in a few days to cycle between my 3 optical sources.
Then again, I have an extra PIC controller, IR sensor, and spare remote... 1 thing at a time. :-D
I'll post some pictures when things are...presentable. Who needs more PCB porn?
Thanks again!
Audio PC
Hi Peter,
I only went back a few pages in this forum, but I noticed you were working on a media PC.
Have you gotten it up and running? How do you like it?
I had been using something similar for a few years until I get fed up with its usability. I'm curious to hear your experiences.
One of the reasons I wanted your dac was to complete the expulsion of the media PC from the livingroom. I've since replaced it with a PS3 and an AirPort Express, which both have SPDIF outs (optical).
With the DAC, I won't have to rely on whatever cheap SoC either company decided to use and maintain a consistent sound regardless of transportcrosses fingers.
Hi Peter,
I only went back a few pages in this forum, but I noticed you were working on a media PC.
Have you gotten it up and running? How do you like it?
I had been using something similar for a few years until I get fed up with its usability. I'm curious to hear your experiences.
One of the reasons I wanted your dac was to complete the expulsion of the media PC from the livingroom. I've since replaced it with a PS3 and an AirPort Express, which both have SPDIF outs (optical).
With the DAC, I won't have to rely on whatever cheap SoC either company decided to use and maintain a consistent sound regardless of transport
crosses fingers.
Hi Peter
Looks like your PCB is good, i will buy some for
Other amp, if this my solution
I use another PSU and softstart but theres a thumb in my speaker
if i look the real Pass PSU, theres some NTC thermistor and resistor
between two capacitor, looks like your psu, will safe my amplifier
My amps works in with 5A Toroids 40 volt and will use
2 caps x 10.000uf 80V each PSU
This amplifier is 150w per channel
so what will i add in your power supply to clean the thumb
- How much and what ohm & watt resistor i must give in your PSU
- How much and what ohm & ampere ntc thermistor i must give in your PSU
- Is there other parts i must give in your PSU ?
- Can you give me the picture where i must place resistor and NTC
Please help me Peter, I really dont know about this. Thank you before
And it will be a big suprise if i dont need to use speaker protector
regards
Looks like your PCB is good, i will buy some for
Other amp, if this my solution
I use another PSU and softstart but theres a thumb in my speaker
if i look the real Pass PSU, theres some NTC thermistor and resistor
between two capacitor, looks like your psu, will safe my amplifier
My amps works in with 5A Toroids 40 volt and will use
2 caps x 10.000uf 80V each PSU
This amplifier is 150w per channel
so what will i add in your power supply to clean the thumb
- How much and what ohm & watt resistor i must give in your PSU
- How much and what ohm & ampere ntc thermistor i must give in your PSU
- Is there other parts i must give in your PSU ?
- Can you give me the picture where i must place resistor and NTC
Please help me Peter, I really dont know about this. Thank you before
And it will be a big suprise if i dont need to use speaker protector
regards
Peter Daniel said:
hi peter
i am a new member, can't see my post.
please contact me,thanks
cyxg66@gmail.com
Peter i noticed that you use a lot of aluminium in your chassis. i used it a few times, but have a lot of problems with the scratches, I noticed that the aluminium are an very fragile material and everything that touch the case produce an scratch.
You do some special treatment or use some kinf of protection film??
Thanks in advance
You do some special treatment or use some kinf of protection film??
Thanks in advance
aluminium in most of it's alloy forms is a relatively soft material.
There are many hard grades available and the tempered ones can be very hard but still not as scratch resistant as steel.
Anodising is the traditional "coating" to prevent corrosion, insulate the surface and give a fairly robust scratch resistant surface.
There is even a hard anodise process.
Most of these anodised surfaces can be dyed just about any colour.
There are many hard grades available and the tempered ones can be very hard but still not as scratch resistant as steel.
Anodising is the traditional "coating" to prevent corrosion, insulate the surface and give a fairly robust scratch resistant surface.
There is even a hard anodise process.
Most of these anodised surfaces can be dyed just about any colour.
Re: Preamp?
You must have miss it as it was posted here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1175938#post1175938
After experimenting with that attenuator and buffer stage, I came to conclusion that TVC is better, that's why I didn't do much more about it. Instead, I worked on a CD Transport: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=120229&perpage=20&pagenumber=1
lgreen said:
You must have miss it as it was posted here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1175938#post1175938
After experimenting with that attenuator and buffer stage, I came to conclusion that TVC is better, that's why I didn't do much more about it. Instead, I worked on a CD Transport: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=120229&perpage=20&pagenumber=1
samsagaz said:
Anodizing is the only practical way to prevent scratches and that's what I do in my commercial products. When I build prototype or one unit for custom order, I don't do anodizing but use alodine which penetrates metal surface and prevent corosion and staining. It does not protect against scratching though and the item needs careful handling.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3982&highlight=
Re: Audio PC
I just finished few days ago a small PC for my workshop. It came out really nice and I can't complain.
I decided to use Antec NSK1380 case, which features three-layer sandwiched side panels (aluminum, plastic, aluminum), is relatively small and looks good enough (sort of like Levinson: http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product.php?id=MzA=
Since the MoBo is installed on a bottom, I decided to reinforce bottom panel by adding 3/16" aluminum plate attached with double sided tape and 4 cones:
Although the case comes with pretty nice PS I decided to remove it and in its place install linear supply based on 100VA Hammond transformer, 2 x MSR860 diodes, 6,800uF cap and LT1083 high current regulator. The custom aluminum bracket added on top supports the new PS components:
Here's the closup of transformer assembly, the rectifiers are installed directly to a bracket as they run very hot:
The 12V regulator has it's own heatsink attached to bottom panel. It does not run that hot but just in case I added small fan with reduced speed and now it's only slightly warm. A PICO PSU is installed directly on motherboard, the only modification was removal of two roiginal caps and putting BG N 470/16 in their place:
Here's a view from a top, some damping material was added to a bottom and I use Freezer LP to cool down the CPU. In Smart mode the fan is quiet and can't be heard after case is closed. I didn't even consider any means of passive cooling:
Originally I wanted to use full size HD (WD 640GB Caviar) but it put too much strain on PS and in the end I went with 2.5" WD Scorpio which is much smaller; I made custom brackets to install it in a drives compartment:
All in all, I'm very content with that unit and I use it in my workshop for music, internet and video. I have another, more serious project coming up soon.
faiyaza said:
I just finished few days ago a small PC for my workshop. It came out really nice and I can't complain.
I decided to use Antec NSK1380 case, which features three-layer sandwiched side panels (aluminum, plastic, aluminum), is relatively small and looks good enough (sort of like Levinson
: http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product.php?id=MzA=
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Since the MoBo is installed on a bottom, I decided to reinforce bottom panel by adding 3/16" aluminum plate attached with double sided tape and 4 cones:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Although the case comes with pretty nice PS I decided to remove it and in its place install linear supply based on 100VA Hammond transformer, 2 x MSR860 diodes, 6,800uF cap and LT1083 high current regulator. The custom aluminum bracket added on top supports the new PS components:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here's the closup of transformer assembly, the rectifiers are installed directly to a bracket as they run very hot:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The 12V regulator has it's own heatsink attached to bottom panel. It does not run that hot but just in case I added small fan with reduced speed and now it's only slightly warm. A PICO PSU is installed directly on motherboard, the only modification was removal of two roiginal caps and putting BG N 470/16 in their place:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here's a view from a top, some damping material was added to a bottom and I use Freezer LP to cool down the CPU. In Smart mode the fan is quiet and can't be heard after case is closed. I didn't even consider any means of passive cooling:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Originally I wanted to use full size HD (WD 640GB Caviar) but it put too much strain on PS and in the end I went with 2.5" WD Scorpio which is much smaller; I made custom brackets to install it in a drives compartment:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
All in all, I'm very content with that unit and I use it in my workshop for music, internet and video. I have another, more serious project coming up soon.
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