Technics SL1200 internal brackets, regulator and external power supply - diyAudio
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Old 14th September 2014, 10:45 PM   #1
davefl is offline davefl  United States
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Default Technics SL1200 internal brackets, regulator and external power supply

Gee, where to start? With so many mods and accessories for the SL 1200/1210, this may be a bit of a tired topic. However, I've just recently jumped on the bandwagon and have been thinking of offering some internal mounting brackets and maybe an external power supply chassis for diy-ers.

I will state that I'm with Landfall Systems and we are a commercial business. I'd like to start with some ideas and initial concepts, and will of course carry this over to our commercial thread if these ideas are product-worthy.

This all started with one of our customers asking for a simple armboard for a friend's SL1200 (but that's a topic for another day). I obviously had to pick up one or two of these turntables so I could tweak the armboard to fit just so. And now that I have a couple fairly well used M3D's, I might as well get them in shape.

Okay, so it seems the power supply is a popular place to start and a good upgrade can offer a lot of bang for the buck. Well, Pete Millett just happens to have a great filament regulator that seemed just about right for use in Technics power supply. Change the caps to the appropriate voltage (I used all 50v caps) and change the adjustment resistors, and voila, a clean 21 volts - adjustable. With a resistive load I measured 115 micro volts of AC noise. I haven't measured it in the turntable yet, but will get there eventually. I'll get my parts list together in case anyone is interested, and take some more measurements as I get the chance to.

Anyhow, on to the brackets. With the transformer relocated to an external chassis, it's old cavity is a great mounting place for the reg.

By the way, don't wire it as shown here. I didn't bother to look at the bottom of the little Technics regulator board. It's not wired straight from IC pins to solder pads. I have another picture with the wiring fixed. You'll also notice I only used 2 filter caps for twice the original capacitance. I may add more later.

So this is idea #1. We've made this bracket to fit where the transformer was and can make mounting holes for pretty much anything that will fit in the space. I'm putting this out there to see if anyone is interested.

You can also see the other mounting bracket that's where the power cord comes in and where the regulator IC mounts. More on this shortly.
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Old 14th September 2014, 11:51 PM   #2
davefl is offline davefl  United States
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And here's the other bracket. This one is about as big as we can make it to fill the space. We can make it smaller in any pattern that fits your needs, but would like to make at most just a few variants. You can see the original cover plate for the power cord entry on top of our bracket which is about as small as we can go with this one.

As shown, I mounted the regulator IC on top of the bracket. If you're going to do this, you should also apply heat transfer compound to the bottom where it mates to the original heatsink "platform." This will help to dissipate the regulator's heat into the chassis like the original design.

Again, don't wire the regulator IC like this, two of the wires need to cross. Unfortunately I took these pictures before I fixed the wiring and attached the power cord.

I don't have an immediate need for this bracket, but it seemed like a good place for one. Maybe you have a different regulator that could mount here or you need a plate to mount a detachable power cord connector.

Just trying to see if there's any interest.

Kind regards,
Dave
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Old 15th September 2014, 11:52 PM   #3
davefl is offline davefl  United States
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Here are a couple of pictures showing how I wired the regulator into the main board. This also shows the correct wiring between Pete's board and the regulator IC.

Except for removing the factory regulator, I left the main board alone since only a few components are still in circuit. There's no adverse affect on the PS and only minimal current draw from these components. Makes it easier to return to original condition also

Out+ off Pete's regulator board is wired to J3 where the original 3-pin regulator was wired. Out- is wired to a handy hole w/solder pad that's real close to the gnd point off the factory rectifier. Some of the other potential ground points are connected to this one by small traces and I wanted to avoid overloading those traces. Besides, it's also convenient.

More on the regulator later.
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File Type: jpg 20140915_180649.jpg (864.7 KB, 26 views)
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