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Old 1st December 2011, 11:28 PM   #11
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For safety concerns/issues with regards to the use of lead, ...any kind of 'heavy' disk could (and should to avoid using/working with lead without a professional) be possibly used/modified as a alternate base for isolating the motor..., even a modified 'barbell' weight, (maybe one with plastic/rubber casing around it) etc... it does not have to be cast lead... I used lead because it was heaviest with most damping properties and easiest, ...for me...

Last edited by TigerScent; 1st December 2011 at 11:50 PM.
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Old 2nd December 2011, 06:52 PM   #12
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...when I created my motor isolation base, I found it important when engineering the cavity in the center of it, for the thrust bearing (for spring/bearing), it was important to ensure the base surface was very flat, as I had to bolt down the Rega motor to it quite firmly, to minimize/avoid grease (possibly) finding its way through (This has not been an issue to date).

.., and for a stable coupling of the motor to the base, so that it would sink/transfer the vibrations/energy from the motor to the base...neutralizing them...(and also minimizing motor vibrations going to the belt)

...I upgraded the platter spindle bearing to ruby: the steel bearing I used for the thrust bearing, which was ideal for the intended purpose...

(In using a barbell weight, a seperate Rega motor thrust bearing would need to be fitted onto the motor and the thrust bearing would protrude into the hole in the weight.)

Last edited by TigerScent; 2nd December 2011 at 07:11 PM.
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Old 30th July 2012, 02:43 PM   #13
Siberia is offline Siberia  Lithuania
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I admit, I found original Planar 3 motor rubber suspension quite funky in the beginning. That didn't put me away from trying motor isolation base. It's similar to TigerScents. A heavy (steel, probably) 24mm x 110mm base round tablet was made in a local "garage" for the cost of 8 euros. Drilling and mounting I made myself. And it's the best cost upgrade ratio I've ever spent.

There's increase in clarity at every register. There's more staging, positioning and just simply more information. I highly recommend it for everybody who own Rega Planar TTs.

There's room for improvement. I didn't mount rubber "feets" on the base for decoupling. Not much space left with current Rega feet height. So it's simply base *** to shelf coupling. I didn't drew a core hole for spring and thrust bearing...
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Old 31st July 2012, 05:07 AM   #14
FNQ is offline FNQ  Australia
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TIGERSCENT..good article and thanks also for the good quantity and quality of the pics too !
I am currently "doing-up" my Rega Planar 3 with the gorgeous RB300 arm.
So far I have replaced the motor mounting rubber "band" pending later change of motor mounting arrangement.
Also I've installed new platter drive belts x2 and DUAL belt pulley and thrust bearing from LPTurntables-Michael Lim. His thrust bearing DOES have a hex screw for adjustment too and is the cheapest thrust bearing around.
The bearing was dry when I got the table and the actual ball had corrosive growth on it so I repolished the ball and renewed the oil and yay!!
Some heatshrink tubing around the perimeter of the sub-platter, actually 2 layers, provided a slowing of platter speed as I dislike the slightly fast rotation on those earlier Regas.
Stock feet have a 3mm wedge of sorbothane under each foot which assisted noisefloor greatly.
2 days ago I rewired the arm with Cardas 33 from Cardas Cart' Clips to a terminal block which has Ultra-low capacitance interconnect leads to rhodium RCA plugs.
I used a Cartridge Vibration Absorbtion device from GoldenAge Audio in Australia which is carbonfibre sandwich material in a 3mm block mounting between cart and headshell, reducing stylus born vibrations transferring to tonearm and this works very well with results evident using the HFNRR test LP. So this has allowed me to use my Shure V15-III with Sas stylus on the medium-mass Rega arm..The V15-III with Sas is very high compliance and was giving resonance issues without the Cart Vibration Absorber thingy...To ensure correct cart VTA for the Shure I needed to install a 3.8mm serrated 3 point spacer from Michael Lim also- about AUD$25.00..This 3.8mm spacer also needed for taller carts such as Ortofons too as I had also tried a Ortofon Salsa MC cart... Then last Friday I received an Acrylic platter mat from JClovesmusic-ebay. Bought from him before. Couldn't see why full platters in acrylic cost so much. I have to say what a surprise after replacing the stock Rega felt with the "XTC" acrylic mat. Quite an improvement sonically and not very expensive at all. So it is all sounding very nice indeed so far..I am waiting on a ceramic ball bearing and lube oil from DuoPhonic UK-ebay to put paid to the bearing & lube operation; also from same supplier a sorbothane motor "shroud" for vibration reduction. After that I may just spring for an answer to the motor mount aspect-either the additional base idea or a heavy motor base like you have done. Trouble is heavy base from o/seas cost heavy postage too !! The additional base for motor mounting from UK about AUD$200.00 inc post or about $170.00 thru an Australian supplier..so bloody exxie... Cheers 4 now all.

Last edited by FNQ; 31st July 2012 at 05:30 AM.
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Old 8th August 2012, 11:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siberia View Post
I admit, I found original Planar 3 motor rubber suspension quite funky in the beginning. That didn't put me away from trying motor isolation base. It's similar to TigerScents. A heavy (steel, probably) 24mm x 110mm base round tablet was made in a local "garage" for the cost of 8 euros. Drilling and mounting I made myself. And it's the best cost upgrade ratio I've ever spent.

There's increase in clarity at every register. There's more staging, positioning and just simply more information. I highly recommend it for everybody who own Rega Planar TTs.

There's room for improvement. I didn't mount rubber "feets" on the base for decoupling. Not much space left with current Rega feet height. So it's simply base *** to shelf coupling. I didn't drew a core hole for spring and thrust bearing...
...good to see you are enjoying the benefits of this gr8 low-cost upgrade. Keep in mind that lead has less ringing and better damping..., however your mod sounds as though its working for you. If you wish to put some hi-density foam cutouts under the rubber feet AND under the motor base...you will find that height is not an issue and the whole TT with base will be at same level. This will also improve the sonics. Using a gel layer would probably work better than foam ....

Enjoy...
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Old 8th August 2012, 11:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FNQ View Post
TIGERSCENT..So far I have replaced the motor mounting rubber "band" pending later change of motor mounting arrangement.
...its worth doing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by FNQ View Post
Couldn't see why full platters in acrylic cost so much. I have to say what a surprise after replacing the stock Rega felt with the "XTC" acrylic mat. Quite an improvement sonically and not very expensive at all. So it is all sounding very nice indeed so far..
I found the acrylic platter is better sounding...I just cut out some rubber mesh that comes in rolls from Coles and it works beautifully...solid tight sound...very cost effective...

Quote:
Originally Posted by FNQ View Post
..I am waiting on a ceramic ball bearing and lube oil from DuoPhonic UK-ebay to put paid to the bearing & lube operation; also from same supplier a sorbothane motor "shroud" for vibration reduction. After that I may just spring for an answer to the motor mount aspect-either the additional base idea or a heavy motor base like you have done.
I used the ruby ball from them. It works well, the ceramic is apparantly an greater improvement...

...again, the motor-base is worth doing and the best upgrade option that makes a noticable difference... then consider rewiring the arm...all the other options are added tweaks that improve,....additionally..., but these 2 mods make the most dramatic noticable difference...

Cheers...
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Old 22nd August 2012, 06:06 PM   #17
Siberia is offline Siberia  Lithuania
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Digital tachometer arrived and it measures 34.1 rpm. Is there a way to reduce the speed other than adding thickness to subplatter?
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Old 25th August 2012, 08:51 PM   #18
wrankin is offline wrankin  United States
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scotch or electrical tape.

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Old 25th August 2012, 08:55 PM   #19
Siberia is offline Siberia  Lithuania
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Actualy, that's what I did. Without regret until now. Reduced speed to 33.4. Talk about the shift of tone!
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Old 12th January 2013, 09:11 AM   #20
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I came up with a novel idea. Use a rubber or silicone washer that is totally flat, such as found in plumbing etc, for a nice, snug and flat fit...., however anything similar will do with..., medium density...

Its an idea I came up with to de-couple and dampen the tonearm from resonance from the plinth/platter..., silicone at the right density would be ideal, but this 'K' valve was the best I could come up with at Bunnings this afternoon...

This is 'instead' of the metal washer/spacer that is usually used to raise the height of the tonearm...

'K' is the word !!

I put some Quick Grip contact on one side of the rubber washer VERY EVENLY and thinly; then on the underside of the base of the tonearm after the thread; and then carefully manouvered it along the base thread of the tonearm, and quickly threaded the wiring through the plinth, and pushed it flat and held for about 10 mins.

Then I cut the excess away first with small sharp curved scissors, around the base, and then with a sharp stanley knife. I then cut some gaffa tape and taped the stainless part of the base up, and proceeded with a dremel and small cylindrical sander implement, to even it out nice and round around the base. I then took the tape off and where it was a bit scuffed through some tape I sanded a bit with 240 grit sandpaper so it was all even with the same look.

I proceeded to wrap some silicone gas thread tape around the threaded base part, several times evenly, to further dampen any would-be resonance in that direction...

I then put some contact cement on the underside of the said 'K' washer ONLY, (not too thick as it spreads out past the edges) and pushed it onto the plinth into the hole. I ensured it was straight and then placed a pad on top of the tonearm, and then carefully balanced a 5kg weight on top and and leaving overnight...., to ensure it adheres 'flat' regarding tonearm alignment....

This should further de-couple the arm from the plinth and dampen any vibrations...

One can also add very thin and even silicone or rubber cut to size on top of the sub-platter for further dampening...

Its about 2mm higher, ....at the base of the tonearm, which should be about right, however adding a thin dampening mat on top of the sub-platter, this can be adjusted....

It works rather well, with such a s-i-m-p-l-e modification. There was clearly a distinct improvement in dynamic range, bass response, and clarity accross all registers...I was surprised by the difference...I am re-discovering all my records and they are an increased joy to listen to. Probably should mention that the volume & bass response seems to be much higher. I notice I need to turn it down by about 7 notches. ie: from -11 to -18

Last edited by TigerScent; 12th January 2013 at 09:15 AM.
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