Yes. I would like to build a similar unit to what coleman presented earlier. I plan on building two. The first will use the rd-80 bearing/motor and inner platter. The plinth/outer platter will be made new using wood, and will use the magnapan tone arm.
The second table will be an all out design, using magnetic bearing (being machined now), composit wood platter, and whatever else I learn from the firts build. I hav even thought of building the Schroeder arm 12".
My current rd80 is basically a drum. I was so sure of myself 20yrs ago on the virtues of mdf that I tore apart the original plinth and made a new one out of it. The suspension subplinth is now mdf as well. The only thing I did right was keep the geometry the same between the two tables. Turns out that the original geometry wasn't right for the magnapan arm.
The Generation2 table will be designed for the magnapan arm geometry, it won't have a suspension but will be antiresonant. I hope this won't take too long.
The second table will be an all out design, using magnetic bearing (being machined now), composit wood platter, and whatever else I learn from the firts build. I hav even thought of building the Schroeder arm 12".
My current rd80 is basically a drum. I was so sure of myself 20yrs ago on the virtues of mdf that I tore apart the original plinth and made a new one out of it. The suspension subplinth is now mdf as well. The only thing I did right was keep the geometry the same between the two tables. Turns out that the original geometry wasn't right for the magnapan arm.
The Generation2 table will be designed for the magnapan arm geometry, it won't have a suspension but will be antiresonant. I hope this won't take too long.
Yes, I build all my cases. It is the one thing that I can do autonomously. Aluminum is easy enough as it can be worked with carbide bits and jigs. I have an old table saw fitted with a fine non ferrous blade. The steel enclosures are a different story. My friend works for a heating/AC company, so I asked him to make the internal steel enclosure. I tried to do it myself but without proper sheet metal tools it looked like my first clay pot I made in pre school.
I will start a new thread soon on the Gen2 turntable build as the project develops.
I will start a new thread soon on the Gen2 turntable build as the project develops.
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Late arrival to this loooong and very interesting theme.
Dear Salas,
During the all day I've tryed to read all posts (yes from the very start), and saw a big evolution on this very good implementation.
I am almost new to TT life, been around for some time on DIY Audio, mainly on amps and preamps.
Now I am very much interested in building your design, could you please direct me to the right schematic post for a Denon DL 103? + the Shunt supply?
I am now just finishing my lattest 300B amp to use with OB speakers, I have used a lot of good parts like Mills, Hashimoto C cores, Lundhal, Tant resistors and teflon Yamamoto valve bases, I will post a photo tomorrow.
By the way are their any PCB's for this implementation?
Many thanks in advance.
PS- Ricardo I see that you are deep in this, and I see that you leave near me in Cascais (I am from S.Pedro), I have NO interest in the commercial aproach (I am a Mechanical Eng by formation but working in the Financial world for more than 17 years), just for my own enjoyment, maybe we should get toghether and change some experiences. I can only share my thoughts of DIY with Rui Borges a good friend from very long, and the one that built my wonderfull TT.
Dear Salas,
During the all day I've tryed to read all posts (yes from the very start), and saw a big evolution on this very good implementation.
I am almost new to TT life, been around for some time on DIY Audio, mainly on amps and preamps.
Now I am very much interested in building your design, could you please direct me to the right schematic post for a Denon DL 103? + the Shunt supply?
I am now just finishing my lattest 300B amp to use with OB speakers, I have used a lot of good parts like Mills, Hashimoto C cores, Lundhal, Tant resistors and teflon Yamamoto valve bases, I will post a photo tomorrow.
By the way are their any PCB's for this implementation?
Many thanks in advance.
PS- Ricardo I see that you are deep in this, and I see that you leave near me in Cascais (I am from S.Pedro), I have NO interest in the commercial aproach (I am a Mechanical Eng by formation but working in the Financial world for more than 17 years), just for my own enjoyment, maybe we should get toghether and change some experiences. I can only share my thoughts of DIY with Rui Borges a good friend from very long, and the one that built my wonderfull TT.
rclourenco,
1) Obtain a batch of 2sk170BL's and measure Idds. You will need to match up several pairs to get the values right. I started with a batch of 30 and it was enough barely. I got lucky.
2) There are no PC boards as it is very individualistic. Making a PC brd is easy enough though.
3) This is a worthwhile effort!!!
1) Obtain a batch of 2sk170BL's and measure Idds. You will need to match up several pairs to get the values right. I started with a batch of 30 and it was enough barely. I got lucky.
2) There are no PC boards as it is very individualistic. Making a PC brd is easy enough though.
3) This is a worthwhile effort!!!
As SGregory pointed out, any PCB would be very individual due to huge dimensional differences in passive components selected or tried out when tuning later. In the round up PDF there were a few board layouts but I have seen nobody using somebody else's yet. In my view the circuit's nature lends itself to point to point and that can have some benefits on top.
As he said, on the other points also. After you got some IDSS pairs and you give more info about the gain structure of your system, only then the best values can be pointed out.
This is open loop you see, means no auto gain control, plus the JFETs varying gm nature reflecting in IDSS, keeps it much individualistic. A recent mistake of 2mA in IDSS in just one stage threw it off THD spec as you have read in the previous last pages for instance.
Hi, thanks for your help. Could you just tell me the best way to measure Idds?
cheers
Does the "simplistic star ground" work?
Next step: "star power"
Take a look what's going on and..... enjoy!
Hi Massimo,
Fantastic design; Have you implemented this? if so could you send the silk screen with component placement and values?
thanks in advance.
cheers
rclourenco,
Be patient in the pc board department. You will want to gather some parts first as your board may end up different..
Measring Idss is easy. First get a bag of 2sk170BL's.
You will need a DMM, 9Volt battery, a 200+/-Ohm resistor.
I accurately measured the resistor and wrote the value down. I connected the DMM across the resistor. Use ohm's law to calculate the current.
by shorting the gate and source together you measure the current it passes to the drain with the resistor in series with the 9V battery. It will be in the range of 6 to about 12 mA for the BL's.
I then taped it to a sheet of paper with its value to keep it sorted.
Be patient in the pc board department. You will want to gather some parts first as your board may end up different..
Measring Idss is easy. First get a bag of 2sk170BL's.
You will need a DMM, 9Volt battery, a 200+/-Ohm resistor.
I accurately measured the resistor and wrote the value down. I connected the DMM across the resistor. Use ohm's law to calculate the current.
by shorting the gate and source together you measure the current it passes to the drain with the resistor in series with the 9V battery. It will be in the range of 6 to about 12 mA for the BL's.
I then taped it to a sheet of paper with its value to keep it sorted.
Clear up things
I know that one of the reasons behind this Thread, is Vinyl loving, and ZERO commercial interest...
JUST TO KEEP THINGS VERY CLEAR, that's also my interest, my life (earnings) is coming ONLY from my professional activity in BNP Paribas Bank where I am the Head of Sales for Corporate bank Leasing solutions.
I have my "BRAND" it’s not even registered anywhere, because I am quite crazy about the looks and finishing of my DIY equipment’s. Why SELL, unfortunately I don’t have deep pockets, and still believe that the way to do it is through DIY, so I keep on experimenting a lot of things and ideas, after sometime with some equipment I try to sell it (not ever, I have a basement full of material) to sponsor the next project. If you look better on this forum you will find my B1 preamp (sold for 600€, just the cost of Hexateq chassis was 230€, If you think this is commercial?), you can find my class D Hypex amp (sold for 500€, again, blá, blá, blá, blá), well you only will find one of a kind, and not more.
By the way my brand “MAR” means “Music Arts Reproduction”, but also is the Portuguese word for SEA, wish I really love and respect.
Having cleared at least my mind…keep on the good work, I will look somewhere else for a good working RIAA, for sure if this was the last one on earth we would be in bad shape.
Dear Salas,???. No.
I know that one of the reasons behind this Thread, is Vinyl loving, and ZERO commercial interest...
JUST TO KEEP THINGS VERY CLEAR, that's also my interest, my life (earnings) is coming ONLY from my professional activity in BNP Paribas Bank where I am the Head of Sales for Corporate bank Leasing solutions.
I have my "BRAND" it’s not even registered anywhere, because I am quite crazy about the looks and finishing of my DIY equipment’s. Why SELL, unfortunately I don’t have deep pockets, and still believe that the way to do it is through DIY, so I keep on experimenting a lot of things and ideas, after sometime with some equipment I try to sell it (not ever, I have a basement full of material) to sponsor the next project. If you look better on this forum you will find my B1 preamp (sold for 600€, just the cost of Hexateq chassis was 230€, If you think this is commercial?), you can find my class D Hypex amp (sold for 500€, again, blá, blá, blá, blá), well you only will find one of a kind, and not more.
By the way my brand “MAR” means “Music Arts Reproduction”, but also is the Portuguese word for SEA, wish I really love and respect.
Having cleared at least my mind…keep on the good work, I will look somewhere else for a good working RIAA, for sure if this was the last one on earth we would be in bad shape.
Not say...even 5 of a kind made.
Anyway, anybody can take up an open project for own reasons, I am not happy into screening people or evaluating info, but I can't accept such contradictions when addressed to me either. Someone who has put much time and dedication in this project could be naturally asked by someone else, maybe non technical or simply free time challenged, to have it made for a good or marginal or zero profit, the personal resources and time of practice for such a thing are not quantifiable, but I will not offer my personal guidance that will mean individual values, inevitable debugging aid, parts tips etc. for something that at least is likely going to be recycled fast. Many build examples in the thread already. I will not argue this thing further.
Pictures
Several pictures just for fun:
nude
rear
front
inside double box closed shielded with mu-metal/permalloy
closed ready to enjoy
Several pictures just for fun:
nude
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
rear
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
front
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
inside double box closed shielded with mu-metal/permalloy
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
closed ready to enjoy
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hey, that's top notch. Mu metal sub box, heavy R-Core double mono, Teflon caps even in Riaa, 500mA CCS, remote sensing, top dollar lytics, cables... Bravo. Expensive build, for sure. I hope you find it worthy VS other things phono you have listened to, because I feel a bit weird when people are pouring so much money and time over my ideas. Thanks.
Not say...even 5 of a kind made.
??? really can't figure out that selling Mcintosh or the likes configures any idea concerning selling some one else's...its your interpretation. By the way forgot to mention my Sonus Faber Guarnieri's
Anyway, anybody can take up an open project for own reasons, I am not happy into screening people or evaluating info, but I can't accept such contradictions when addressed to me either. Someone who has put much time and dedication in this project could be naturally asked by someone else, maybe non technical or simply free time challenged, to have it made for a good or marginal or zero profit, the personal resources and time of practice for such a thing are not quantifiable, but I will not offer my personal guidance that will mean individual values, inevitable debugging aid, parts tips etc. for something that at least is likely going to be recycled fast. Many build examples in the thread already. I will not argue this thing further.
Just be whare that maybe around the corner your design has already come commercial, lets say several years ago (I was not even born)...
My idea of do it your self is more like the photos shown bellow.
I rest my case.
Best regards.
Attachments
@Salas
Thanks Nick, now I changed the Koa & the Takman resistors for Kiwame & Caddock MK132 also the trimmer now is a Vishay 15ppm instead the standard Bourns, paralleled Caddock TF020 1Meg RIAA resistor, between PSU & regs power cable Cardas 17,5AWG, signal cables Cardas 2x24AWG shielded, Neutrik powercon 20A instead standard or boutique IEC connector. NO HUM thanks to double chassis, incredible low floor noise when no play music is really the SILENCE singing. I think that your design merit all these very good components, a lot of time of work, a lot of your patience, a lot of money, etc. But I'm proud & you must be proud also for this great phono preamp. Never will have enough words to say THANK YOU SO MUCH.
@SGregory
Thank you, how dance? well I'm the owner so I'm not objetive, how sing your's?
Thanks Nick, now I changed the Koa & the Takman resistors for Kiwame & Caddock MK132 also the trimmer now is a Vishay 15ppm instead the standard Bourns, paralleled Caddock TF020 1Meg RIAA resistor, between PSU & regs power cable Cardas 17,5AWG, signal cables Cardas 2x24AWG shielded, Neutrik powercon 20A instead standard or boutique IEC connector. NO HUM thanks to double chassis, incredible low floor noise when no play music is really the SILENCE singing. I think that your design merit all these very good components, a lot of time of work, a lot of your patience, a lot of money, etc. But I'm proud & you must be proud also for this great phono preamp. Never will have enough words to say THANK YOU SO MUCH.
@SGregory
Thank you, how dance? well I'm the owner so I'm not objetive, how sing your's?
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