Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

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ppcblaster - I would keep the shunt current around 100 mA if staying with those 'sinks. Stay around 20 ohms or so for those current set resistors. I ran mine that way for awhile. It would live a long happy life, and sound great. You'll certainly need more substantial heatsinking if you decide to "drop the hammer".
 
ppcblaster - I would keep the shunt current around 100 mA if staying with those 'sinks. Stay around 20 ohms or so for those current set resistors. I ran mine that way for awhile. It would live a long happy life, and sound great. You'll certainly need more substantial heatsinking if you decide to "drop the hammer".


Thank You,
Good to know,

I have a box of heatsinks plus we have Russ Boss here in the forum somewhere. I am going to go with bigger HS's.
 
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Say, can anyone tell me if it is OK to use the MUR 840/60 instead of the MUR 120 in the "non hot rodded" DC-B1? I have every intention of building the Hot rod, but thought I would make sure its good standard, then go to full throttle.
Maybe just build it hot rod from the get go?

Russellc
 
Dvb sweet looking board!! Where did you source those cool looking heat sinks? Anyone know?

sam0084m.jpg
 
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I wired up my Hypno this afternoon; single input and the output through two 4uf wondercaps as neither my Aleph 5 or F5 has an input cap. The p/s voltageswere 9.6 & -9.58v with dc offsets less than a mv[as posted previously].When I checked the dc offset after the caps I had readings of 26mv and 100mv which slowly dropped towards zero if I held the probes there.
Can anyone explain this to me please and is it a problem?
Thanks in advance.
Marra
 
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I added the 1Meg resistors after the output cap and everything is as it should be. The blue hypno is now connected in my system and making good music. If first listen is anything to go by I'm really going to enjoy owning this buffer; so dynamic and the bass.......:D